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Your Latest Fragrance Purchase

We went to Tallinn, Estonia this weekend, to see the National Ballet's performance of Corsair. Oh my it was outstanding, the best ballet I've seen to date.
Helsinki is a notorious wasteland when it comes to fragrance shops, shockingly bad for a capital European city in fact. But Tallinn has some excellent shops as I discovered.
We hit up four on the Friday we arrived.

The first one was an obscure nice paradise, I had never heard of at least half of the brands. Being the only customer in the shop, the sales lady was having me sample practically everything in the shop, I have a huge stack of sample strips, and didn't even take the majority of them with me. Sadly, my nose was totally blown out by the end of the 45 minute session there, and everything really just started to smell the same. It was an absolutely fascinating experience, and I smelled a whole new world of scents that did really pique my interest.
The lady didn't speak English very well so it was tough to communicate as well. At the end, I knew I just needed to process, and also that I had two more shops on the list (the third we accidentally ran into, which was a department store, with another insane collection.) I told here we'd be back on Saturday to get something.

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The next place was just three doors down, and couldn't have been a more different experience. It only had a few brands, but one that I was particularly interested in, so we stepped in. I saw the brand, and was about the give it a smell when the owner swatted my hand. I told her I was interested in that brand as I'd heard good things about it, but she didn't listen, just said she has a highly curated selection and recommends fragrance based on a customer's skin type. She did have a cool way of sampling, she sprayed into a various wine glasses. But she only let me smell one of the house I was interested in, and the one I didn't really care about before decided I'd like something different. After a few glass smelling she decided to put a couple of fragrances on skin, a vetiver, and a wild herbal thing. They were both interesting, but my nose was already blown, and in anycase, I like to see how a scent develops before buying, so I said thanks and we'd be back tomorrow after I see how it develops. That's when it got really weird, though tbh the whole thing was already. She said she only had two bottles left, I said I'll chance it, I want to see how I like it over time. Then she said her customers immediately know they like it because her fragrances open up very quickly. That's when I said OK and left, with no intention of returning.

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Both these shops were located in the Old Town, which is a beautiful medieval fortress, Tallinn was actually a very wealthy and important trade center, founded by the Vikings.
The next place was in the main mall of the city, and was another niche paradise, only this time with brands I actually heard of!

We accidentally came in the wrong door, and were in the fragrance department of another department store, and I thought it was the niche shop at first, it was that good. A stand out there was Francesca Bianchi's Sticky Fingers, a really rough and wild patchouli that I actually could smell!

Of course my nose was really shot, but my strategy was spray as many test strips as I could to check out later when I could smell, and very often on strips, I get the scent more a few hours after spraying anyway. I actually have a hard time with strips in the store I've noticed, like they blunt half of the fragrance, and you only get the aroma chemicals.

Being in a mall, it was again a very different, and mall like experience, but still super cool, and the staff were actually really nice.

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At the end of it all, after having a nice meal out in a wild gourmet anarchist restaurant, we returned to the hotel, and I went through the sample strips. I For sure I was overwhelmed by everything I'd seen and the room was full of the smell of all the tester strips, Helena, understandably, wanted me to put them in a cupboard or something so they wouldn't gas her out!
Still I found a couple that I know I'd enjoy with the plan of returning to the first and last place.

The first place I settled on one getting one of two options from Pantheon Roma, and then Botafumero from Carner Barcelona, as a perfect cozy home scent for the cold dark season we're in now. It's just a lovely take on amber, spice and incense.

Sadly, it turns out the first shop was closed, even though it says they are open Saturday on the door and website, and I told the sales lady at least 3 times, I wasn't going to buy anything then, but we were in town for a few days, and I'd come back Saturday.

The mall shop was open though. However I was a bit worried they didn't actually have the perfume, since their website said it was out of stock. I didn't have any smelling energy left to choose anything else, though there were literally hundreds of great choices there. so when I go there I just made a beeline to the one I wanted, and started rifling through the boxes under the display to see if I could find it. Thankfully there was one hidden behind some others, so I snatched it up, and tuned for the cashier. On the way I was intercepted and told I shouldn't take the boxes. I guess she thought I was going to try and open it or something, but I just said I want to buy it, and then all was good.

Whew, a really fun weekend and a real education in sniffing for me. Seriously I found a whole new world of smells.

Oddly even the ship we took to Tallinn had a great perfume shop, and on the way home I saw they had the new Gucci Parfum Elixir pour Homme. I sprayed that and it made me think of the first shop, and all the crazy smells. I took most of the trip back to Helsinki for me to realize it was perfect, and I was too beat to go back downstairs to get it, but as it turns out our local dept. store had a card member sale on it this week, so Helena Brough me home a bottle today, but more on that later :)

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Pantheon Roma Così Blu

This is what I was going to go back for at the fancy niche shop in Tallinn, wound up just ordering from Rome, and got a pile of samples thrown is as well, yay!
I really enjoy frankincense but don't like it to be too literally liturgical. This is a gorgeous incense layered over a a thick, syrupy amber, that manages not to be cloying at all. It's well named as the amber here does have a sort of blue feeling that well reflected in the color of the bottle.
And speaking of, this is some of the nicest packaging I've seen. The bottle is just stunning, as is the gilded tube it came in. Under the bottle is a portrait of Raffael and Margherita from whom the brand draws it's inspiration for all its fragrances. This is meant to depict the blue sky in one of Raffael's paintings. Not sure it totally does that, but it's a fantastic scent that manages to hit two challenging categories for me, frankincense and amber. This and Botafumero from Carner Barcelona have really breathed new life into this style of perfumery for me.

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Les Abstraits - Des Cendres
This is one of the more 'fancy' frags in my collection, but one I've wanted since I first heard about it.
Also the only YouTuber fragrance I have, but knowing the creator, Eugen, it was always going to be a top notch production, and knowing who he worked with the make it, it's no surprise that it is.
He's got a long song and dance about the backstory, but I'm not always one for back story's versus how does it smell, and it smells great for us lovers of forests, coniferous greens.
Like a souped up Yatagan, made with quality ingredients and with space between the notes. There's really a ton of depth in this, and I'm getting different nuances of the theme over time, and wearings. But then this is only my 2nd wearing, and only now I feel my nose is back to more or less normal.
Still, I rate this very high in my ever-growing panorama of greens. And what sets it apart is depth and development. Heck even my wife asked me what I was wearing, I was expecting her to say she hated it, because she hates Yatagan, but no, this was a big thumbs up. Yay :)

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Quartana - Forest of the Golden Dream

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Since I first heard of this house, I knew it was one I wanted something from. The house is the definition of quirky niche. Fragrances that are done with love, labored over for years, and with no regard to focus groups. The fragrances that I've seen have a whole little kitschy (in the best possible way) microverse build up around them, with an art insert, and a full short movie available on YouTube.
FOTGD is the first entry in a series focused on health and healing. And is meant to evoke a healing walk through nature. It does that, giving a real sense of walking through a grove of leafy trees. It's largely the laurel that gives it a sort of three dimensionality. Fresh and dried leaves, bark and twigs. You can almost imagine the twigs snapping as you trod over them, gently, surely wearing barefoot shoes.

There's a sort of life that's here that made it a delight to wear, though I think it's maybe a bit better suited for slightly warmer months, it was wonderful on the cold wintery day I first wore it as well.

The closest reference point is Frederic Malle's French Lover. One that I've always been on the cusp of loving, but found it to be so linear and long lasting that I'd always get plain sick of it by the end of wear, though always delighted with the first few hours. FOTGD manages to escape that by breathing enough air into this forest as to not make it suffocating, and thanks to that, it's a real love for me, that I'm extremely happy to have in my collection. A true treasure for lovers of this sort of thing.

 
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Pierre Guillaume - Tigre d'Eau
A birthday gift from my wife, but we all know where she got the idea, and yeah, readers are surely thinking, "Omg, ANOTHER Pierre Guillaume!"
For sure! And it''s a banger! Pierre tried to make a hair-chested masculine with this. Funnily he admits, that it's not his forte, but the result is fabulous.
Reminiscent of old school greats, like Paloma Picasso Minotaur, with a blast of lavender and a huge dollop of coconut. The blurb says there's caramel, which I don't get, but I do get a strong cola overtone.
All I can say, is I'm loving wearing this today, not just because it's a gift from my wonderful wife, but also because it's another one that's fun, that skillfully mixes past references with modern sensibilities.
Anyone looking for a fresh, fun, modern take on a fougere, but still appreciates the classics could enjoy this.
 
Gifts count here, right?!

When going through my 50 or so Pierre Guillaume samples these three stood out to me, as the most special and there fore what I'd like as a gift from my lovely Mrs. This was a good 6 months back.
At the time, I honestly didn't see the commonality here, they just had that je ne sais quoi. Now months later, and with great anticipation, getting them, I see that without realizing it, they form a triptych of sorts. All having an old school perfumery type of elegance, classic perfumery on display, and not shying away from a bit of animalic mischief.

Very happy to have these in my life, and of course the wonderful lady who gave them to me.

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Well I 'had' to do it. I'm so much enjoying the fragrances I have from Pierre Guillaume, that I went for one of the "Contemplation" series that I've been drooling over since day 1, Habanera, along with his latest (re)release Praline de Santal.

Habanera is only available directly from the house, and I've always had a great experience ordering from them. They say you get three samples per order, but I usually just ask for some others, and have always gotten them. That's the 5 boxes on the bottom. But this time I got a couple of really amazing, and totally unexpected things. One is a sample set containing all (I think) of the contemplation series and then the next series down. That's around 100€, and the only way to get samples of the Contemplation series scents. (Yes Habanera was a blind buy, but I did get advice from an online friend who's got all of them.)

But for me the coolest thing of all was the card. It's pretty normal that when you buy from a house, some one, I always assume the packer, will write a nice thank you note. Well this time it was signed by the man himself Pierre Guillaume, making it a bit of a treasure for this fragrance nerd.

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Well I 'had' to do it. I'm so much enjoying the fragrances I have from Pierre Guillaume, that I went for one of the "Contemplation" series that I've been drooling over since day 1, Habanera, along with his latest (re)release Praline de Santal.

Habanera is only available directly from the house, and I've always had a great experience ordering from them. They say you get three samples per order, but I usually just ask for some others, and have always gotten them. That's the 5 boxes on the bottom. But this time I got a couple of really amazing, and totally unexpected things. One is a sample set containing all (I think) of the contemplation series and then the next series down. That's around 100€, and the only way to get samples of the Contemplation series scents. (Yes Habanera was a blind buy, but I did get advice from an online friend who's got all of them.)

But for me the coolest thing of all was the card. It's pretty normal that when you buy from a house, some one, I always assume the packer, will write a nice thank you note. Well this time it was signed by the man himself Pierre Guillaume, making it a bit of a treasure for this fragrance nerd.

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Cole is now taking submissions and donations for his shrine to Pierre Guillaume. Pilgrimages should be arranged through the reception desk.

You’ve had to have amazed quite a collection now buddy! How many frags are you up to?
 
Cole is now taking submissions and donations for his shrine to Pierre Guillaume. Pilgrimages should be arranged through the reception desk.
My staff is ready to meet you

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You’ve had to have amazed quite a collection now buddy! How many frags are you up to?

I've only counted the Guillaume collection, 22 now, and it's barely scratching the surface of that house.
 
Another decent discount fragrance online retailer. I had to get a back up of the 200ml. Issey Miyake as they had a Valentine’s Day special a few days back, dirt cheap. The Bottega Veneta Illusione is new to me but, overall I enjoy the offerings from this house. The Kenzo is my 2nd foray with creator Quintin Bisch as the eau de parfum version was a hit for me. We shall see with the edt Intense version. All super affordable to be honest.

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