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Dave's Barber Shop Discussion

Sorry I have been a bit vacant around the site. But here is one from today. And fits Steve’s topic. We will discuss it more

Gentlemens cut. Slick back. Very coarse wavy hair

Happy Thanksgiving everyone. We are thankful for you as members

 
A man was getting a haircut prior to a trip to Rome. He mentioned the trip to the barber who responded, "Rome? Why would anyone want to go there? It's crowded & dirty and full of Italians. You're crazy to go to Rome.So, how are you getting there?""We're taking TWA," was the reply. "We got a great rate!""TWA?" exclaimed the barber. "That's a terrible airline. Their planes are old, their flight attendants are ugly, and they're always late.So, where are you staying in Rome?""We'll be at the downtown International Marriott.""That dump! That's the worst hotel in the city. The rooms are small, the service is surly and they're overpriced. So, whatcha doing when you get there?""We're going to go to see the Vatican and we hope to see the Pope.""That's rich," laughed the barber. "You and a million other people trying to see him. He'll look the size of an ant. Boy, good luck on this lousy trip of yours. You're going to need it."
A month later, the man again came in for his regular haircut. The barber asked him about his trip to Rome."It was wonderful," explained the man, "not only were we on time in one of TWA's brand new planes, but it was overbooked and they bumped us up to first class. The food and wine were wonderful, and I had a beautiful 28 year old stewardess who waited on me hand and foot.And the hotel-it was great! They'd just finished a $25 million remodeling job and now it's the finest hotel in the city. They, too, were overbooked, so they apologized and gave us the presidential suite at no extra charge!""Well," muttered the barber, "I know you didn't get to see the pope.""Actually, we were quite lucky, for as we toured the Vatican, a Swiss Guard tapped me on the shoulder and explained that the pope likes to personally meet some of the visitors, and if I'd be so kind as to step into his private room and wait the pope would personally greet me. Sure enough, five minutes later the pope walked through the door and shook my hand! I knelt down as he spoke a few words to me.""Really?" asked the Barber. "What'd he say?"He said, "Where'd you get the lousy haircut?

source: Haircut Jokes | Funny Humor by Joke Buddha
 
I was going to wait on these discussions, but KJ prompted me with his post to get this going. PLease refer to his initial post here:

Spider-Man’s Steps to Mohawk

@NurseDave just for you brother!
theshavingcadre.com theshavingcadre.com


The history and beginnings of the Mohawk are owed to the American Indian Tribe of the same name "Mohawk". In actual hair circles it is called a "hair lock" Style. This was done primarily as a protection against other tribes in capturing the prized scalp of hair as it was harder to get to. The modern popularity of the Style has it's roots in two places



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1. The re-adoption of the haircut by the 506th Parachute Infantry Division 101st Airborne. The nickname of this cadre was the "Filthy Thirteenth. Jake McNiece, who was part Native American, was the commander of this group and encourage his troops to get the "mohawks" and put on war paint as a morale booster ( not politically correct by today's standards) and to keep the air "light" in lieu of the battle.
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2. The modern interpretation of the Hairstyle can be traced to "Alternative Culture" such as punk rock and goth. It was seen as a shocking and rebellious way to show one's own individuality and was very prevalent in the 80's and early 90's, although they have always been worn for anyone fielding the "Anarchy" lifestyle, As well as those individuals who want everyone to know "They walk their own path"

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The Hairstyle is gaining popularity again with its traditional layout as well as "long spiked, short spiked, close cropped, and viking". It could be argued that the Viking style came 1st, however it was not a true mohawk as it was not "stood up" and usually ended in a v shape in the crown area near the occipital ridge. The nice this is those folks sporting this style of haircut can simply not spike it up and comb back. Two styles for the price of one.

The newest iteration of the style is the "Faux Hawk" this gives a nod to the original but usually combines it with another style such as a fade, burst fade or so-forth.

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The Mohawk:

A style that has survived not only the beginnings of the American Culture, crossed oceans ,and was adopted for people who wanted to stand out, a musical culture and pay homage during war time. In modern times it has been adapted for a new generation.

Styling:

As a barber it is one of the easiest cuts, but can be challenging. It all depends on what the client is looking for Mohawks are clippered either with a,5, 1, or balding clipper up to an area in the crown roughly 1-3 inches on each side and about 1-3 inches down the back to the occipital. Top is left 2 inches or longer and blow dried straight up with the assistance of hair spray. A product that is used ofted as a finish and to give it that ironclad style is "Got to be Glued Ultra" it is a gel that solidifies and only water and washing will get it out. The fauxhawk, in constrast is a fade or burst fade that gradually gets longer and usually is 4-5 inches in width, with a longer top styled with a boxed line up and c-cup in the temple regions

Thanks KJ for the burr I needed to get this thread going. Discuss, LOL
 
Ok Folks to start off the Haircut series. What we have here is a Close Cropped Taper-Fade. It has become a popular cut as of late, as it allows form multiple styling in the morning, does not require much combing or brushing and allows to wear with a part, straight back and "spikey" and it very easy to take care of. For those gents that want to "Get up and Go", or also popular for the Motorcycle crowd to have virtually no "Helmet Head.

This is Tyler 50 yrs old and unfortunately I did not take a before picture, but these are the result. Explanation of the Cut below.

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This cut was achieved using a Wahl Senior Adjustable Clipper with a #5 Guard to allow length on the occipital and crown areas and tapered down to a 1.5 guard and then faded in the neck area down to bald using the open-mid-closed adjusment down to bald. On the top it was a combination of Sheer cutting, and Clipper cutting. At the crown area Clipper over Comb technique was used to connect the sides. All of it was finished with Trimmers around the ears, Shear over comb to taper , blending shears, and a Straight Razor neck shave and around the ears. Finished with Pomade and a V-slot styling comb.

As stated above it can be finger styled, worn with a part, straight back and spikey, or all forward (shown) with bangs. So versatile for almost any occasion and dress.

CUT: Close Cropped Taper-Fade

EQUIPMENT: Wahl Senior Adjustable Clippers, and 5-.05 Guards / Andis T-Ouliner / 7" Hunt & Hustle convex shears / DK Park Metal 320 Styling Comb-Taper / Feather DX-ProGuard Blade / 44/20 Blending Shears / Roffler Pomade

TIME: 40 Minutes

RECOMMENDATIONS: Unisex both Young and Old

Questions and Comments Appreciated
 
Great explanation Dave. I got that cut for a while several years ago because, as you said, it's easy to care for
 
#3 in the Haircut Series. This haircut is one of the most widely worn and sought after cuts by many of a certain generation, as well as being worn by Military Men all over the planet. The most iconic television role that brought even more attention to the flat top was the beloved character of Gunnery Sgt. Vince Carter from Gomer Pyle USMC played by Frank Sutton. In actuality he wore two types of styles a flat top shown on the left and a crew cut on the right. A very easy distinction to miss. as the only major difference between the two is a crew cut is really nothing more than a rounded Flat Top at the Crown and Apex areas of the head

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Many other actors have sported Flat Tops for Roles:

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Mr. Bacons however is what is considered to be a LL Flat Top or Longer length on top. Contrary to popular belief Flat Tops do not automatically stay that way. They actually can be quite time consuming using Blow Dryer, Crew Comb ( a type of hair gel ) and Hair spray. The shorter "True" flat tops are a bit easier.

The following shows different length flat tops I styled:

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Almost all of these have variations, and this is the process.

This time an Oster Detachable blade clipper is used for the Bulk of this haircut using a #1 blade which leave the hair roughly 3.5mm in length on the sides. a straight up motion is used as to not folow the curvature of the head, to create that Block. After that a deliberate fade to a 000 or almost bald is used in the nape area and above the ears. This can be accomplished with a continued down sizing of blades to the 000, or an adjustable can be used with no guard. This of course is followed by detail work with trimmers around the ears and followed by a neck and arching shave around the ears.

Once the Foundation is built then the hair is made wet on top and using a blow dryer it is blown up and back creating the pallet needed for the difficult part of the haircut. At this point a #1 blade or a specialized Flat Top T-blade is used. Starting at the front, depending on how high the client wants the flat top, you level the comb and slowly cut across the tines of a special Flat top comb. Many of these combs have actual levels built into them to ensure perfect dimensions. This process in repeated all the way along the top of the skull. In truer short flat tops, the comb is actually laid upon the head which assists in creating that "Flat Top" as the apex of the crown acts as a balance. Then the whole procedure is repeated on the side of the client to ensure the "square" is level front to back and side to side.

It is a challenging, insofar as making it perfectly level (lots of minor adjustments) cut but also one of the most unique and beloved men's styles.

Below you will see a variation called a "Princeton" or Ivy League, which is nothing more than a flat top that is pushed and cut forward with a part. It is called as such as in the past many colleges took pride in their haircut and the name stuck. This style is also used by many Law enforcement officers. This gentleman below is a Sheriff. It is very easy to take care of. The contrast is unique but in actually the length of the top is exactly that of a Flat Top

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CUT: Flat Top / Ivy League

EQUIPMENT: Oster Octane Detachable Blade W/ #1, #0A, #000, Flat Top T-Blade - Wahl Senior Adjustable/no guards - Flat Top Comb - Blow Dryer - Vent Flow Brush - Crew Comb or other alternate Pomade - T-outline trimmers - Straight Razor - Lather

TIME: 30-50 minutes depending on clients needs and hair

This is a cut that the hair needs to be trained over time to get the best results. *NOTE* It should also be mentioned that in actuality there are two types of flat top. the level top as shown above or the Horse Shoe which at the end a #1 blade is taken from the back of the head to just the top of the longest hairs in the front creating a horse shoe as seen from the top. These were more popular in the 50's than today ( see below )

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Again,. Questions or Comments are appreciated
 
How universal are these names? If I went into quickie cuts are us and asked for a Princeton, would they know what I want? Or would it just be something someone in a nicer salon would recognize?
 
NurseDave said:
How universal are these names? If I went into quickie cuts are us and asked for a Princeton, would they know what I want? Or would it just be something someone in a nicer salon would recognize?
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Well they should know if they are Barbers, but most quickie cuts uhh, no. cosmos wont know unless they have researched it, even then a more establish "Old Tyme Barber shop" would be the place to ask That said they should know "Ivy League" which is the same thing
 
Question for you Dave. We're having a discussion about haircuts at work, and someone asked about my mohawk, about if it's still a Mohawk if it's slicked back (I just slick it straight back when I ride my motorcycle into work). I asserted that the Mohawk is defined by the cut, and not the styling of it. So whether it is up or down it's still a Mohawk. Is that correct?

So that prompted the follow up question.... what about a pompadour? Is a pompadour a style, or a cut, or both? Certainly, when you wake up in the morning, and your hair is not styled you do not have a pompadour..... once you put some pomade in it, and style it, giving that signature swoosh, now you have a pompadour....... however, you can't style your hair that way without having the right type of cut..... so is the pompadour a cut as well?

So now the debate over cut vs style. Curious what the difference is for certain looks. Is everything a cut, then styled appropriately to match? Or something else?
 
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Well @Spider, if you took yours and just combed it flat out to each side, it would be a comb-over with a center part. So I vote for style. 🤪
 
Spider said:
Question for you Dave. We're having a discussion about haircuts at work, and someone asked about my mohawk, about if it's still a Mohawk if it's slicked back (I just slick it straight back when I ride my motorcycle into work). I asserted that the Mohawk is defined by the cut, and not the styling of it. So whether it is up or down it's still a Mohawk. Is that correct?

So that prompted the follow up question.... what about a pompadour? Is a pompadour a style, or a cut, or both? Certainly, when you wake up in the morning, and your hair is not styled you do not have a pompadour..... once you put some pomade in it, and style it, giving that signature swoosh, now you have a pompadour....... however, you can't style your hair that way without having the right type of cut..... so is the pompadour a cut as well?

So now the debate over cut vs style. Curious what the difference is for certain looks. Is everything a cut, then styled appropriately to match? Or something else?
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Your logic seems solid to me
 
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