Kind of like etching. You can put a resist on certain spots in whatever pattern you want, and POOF! New tattoo.
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Shawn's forging shed
- Thread starter ShawnF
- Start date
Kind of like etching. You can put a resist on certain spots in whatever pattern you want, and POOF! New tattoo.
So a little more progress for those that like to follow along.
Yesterday I did a LOT of grinding. 2 hours straight on a 36 grit belt, but the result was 3 blades all to the desired thickness, flat, parallel, and no hammer marks.
Today, I went out and marked the holes and drilled them, marked where I wanted to make the plunge grinds, and marked the center of the blade edge and the spine. I mark those so I can keep the blade edge centered, and the distal taper even to keep the tip in the center.
The countersink on the pin holes not only allows the pins to go in easier during assembly, but also gives an extra pocket for epoxy to get into helping to create a stronger bond.
Then I clamp them down in this little jig that I made. This helps to keep the plunge lines even on both sides and keep me from rounding them off if a belt slips or I do something stupid.
Result of the rough grinding. I get my distal taper where I want it, make sure my plunge grinds come to the center and leave the edge about a dimes thickness. Leaving the extra material on helps to prevent warping when I quench them.
I lit the forge and heated them to critical temperature (just to the point that they are non-magnetic), then removed them from the heat and let them cool slowly. This normalizing cycle helps to re-align the grain structure after smashing it all around when forging the blade.
After they cooled, it was back into the forge to just above critical temp then quenching them in oil.
Then I clamped them between two pieces of angle iron in my vise while they were still about 900 degrees to help keep them straight as they finished cooling.
Ran a good Nicholson file across the edge and it will not dig in at all. Skates right off. Good hardness!
Then they got placed in a toaster oven and are "baking" at 400 degrees for an hour.("400" in that is only about 360 according to my temp sticks.) Then they will be allowed to cool, then baked for another hour. This tempering process removes a little of the hardness and helps make the knife tougher and prevents it from breaking under use.
They are in their first cycle as I'm typing, so around 5:30-6 ish I'll be able to do my finish grinding and get them ready for handles. All 3 are going to get some nice dark walnut scales.
Yesterday I did a LOT of grinding. 2 hours straight on a 36 grit belt, but the result was 3 blades all to the desired thickness, flat, parallel, and no hammer marks.
Today, I went out and marked the holes and drilled them, marked where I wanted to make the plunge grinds, and marked the center of the blade edge and the spine. I mark those so I can keep the blade edge centered, and the distal taper even to keep the tip in the center.
The countersink on the pin holes not only allows the pins to go in easier during assembly, but also gives an extra pocket for epoxy to get into helping to create a stronger bond.
Then I clamp them down in this little jig that I made. This helps to keep the plunge lines even on both sides and keep me from rounding them off if a belt slips or I do something stupid.
Result of the rough grinding. I get my distal taper where I want it, make sure my plunge grinds come to the center and leave the edge about a dimes thickness. Leaving the extra material on helps to prevent warping when I quench them.
I lit the forge and heated them to critical temperature (just to the point that they are non-magnetic), then removed them from the heat and let them cool slowly. This normalizing cycle helps to re-align the grain structure after smashing it all around when forging the blade.
After they cooled, it was back into the forge to just above critical temp then quenching them in oil.
Then I clamped them between two pieces of angle iron in my vise while they were still about 900 degrees to help keep them straight as they finished cooling.
Ran a good Nicholson file across the edge and it will not dig in at all. Skates right off. Good hardness!
Then they got placed in a toaster oven and are "baking" at 400 degrees for an hour.("400" in that is only about 360 according to my temp sticks.) Then they will be allowed to cool, then baked for another hour. This tempering process removes a little of the hardness and helps make the knife tougher and prevents it from breaking under use.
They are in their first cycle as I'm typing, so around 5:30-6 ish I'll be able to do my finish grinding and get them ready for handles. All 3 are going to get some nice dark walnut scales.
Dave in KY
Shave Newbie
Nice work Shawn as usual
Dave in KY
Shave Newbie
You got me drooling. Beautiful !!
I have to admit, I'm pretty proud of these 3. My fit and finish is getting better with each one. I did a little file work on the larger one, and it is off just a little. I'm not real happy with that, but the balance and grip of all 3 feel really good in the hand. I kind of don't want to let these go now.....
Still need to sharpen them after the finish has sat a while, and the larger one I need to steel wool and spray one more time. I wrapped them in a cloth to bring them in from the shop and it was wetter than I thought. The cloth stuck a little, so I need to fix that, but I'll do it after sharpening.
Still need to sharpen them after the finish has sat a while, and the larger one I need to steel wool and spray one more time. I wrapped them in a cloth to bring them in from the shop and it was wetter than I thought. The cloth stuck a little, so I need to fix that, but I'll do it after sharpening.
Dave in KY
Shave Newbie
Love that last one especially !!
Thanks Chris!
I know.... It's on my short list, but I need some more materials first. Have to keep doing the diamond bit engraving for a little bit.
Thanks Dave. That one I really impressed myself with because I got the balance right. It's the largest knife I've made so far other than one kitchen knife, but the blade on those is much thinner and easier to balance. This one is pretty stout, but still feels a lot lighter than you would think.
I'm thinking custom TSC Straights for all!
Motion seconded!