The Shaving Cadre

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Not quite Music City USA

Today's shave:

Razor: Karve Overlander Stainless Steel
Blade: Gillette Nacet Stainless
Brush: Simpson Chubby 2 Super Badger
Lather: Spearhead Seaforth Heather
Aftershave: Spearhead Shaving Seaforth Heather Splash
Additional Care:
Humphreys Lavender Witch Hazel
Osma Tradition Alum Block

Seaforth! The name conjures up memories of the days before every font was Helvetica. Not for me, because that was 1957. I was still a ways off. I first learned about the Seaforth! phenomenon with the Spearhead rollout of the, um, replicas/tributes.

I got the first three, Spiced, Heather, and Sea Spice Lime. They're all great smelling soaps, that work very well as shaving soap. Heather is my favorite.
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Not a thing except that I didn't get to watch Rock and Roll really freak people out.

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When I was 6, my parents bought us VJ Records' Introducing the Beatles. Beatlemania followed soon thereafter in the US. It was certainly entertaining watching the fans freak out.
 
You know what I don't miss? Blade arguments. I mean serious blade arguments.

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When I was 6, my parents bought us VJ Records' Introducing the Beatles. Beatlemania followed soon thereafter in the US. It was certainly entertaining watching the fans freak out.
Freakouts are great. With Elvis, the kids freaked out, and that freaked out the adults!

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Today's shave:

Razor: Henson TI-22 Titanium Medium
Blade: RK Stainless
Brush: Simpson "Rover"
Lather: Ethos Succes
Aftershave: Ethos Succes Skin Food Splash
Additional Care:
Humphreys Maravilla
Osma Tradition Alum Block

Since when does one need to apologize for liking Aventus/Aventus Dupes? I saw a comment today, and have heard a couple of times on YouTube where the shaver starts with, "I like Aventus! I know, I know, I'm sorry..." or, "I'm not ashamed to admit I like Aventus!"

I like Aventus, and I've done the minimum necessary, in my opinion, to make that opinion informed, given that $500 bottles of fragrance aren't a part of my reality. I bought a 10ml decant, and smelled it alone, and with my different dupes, so I could make formal comparisons and form opinions about which dupe is most faithful, and which I like best.

I like Dossier Musky Oakmoss the best, but Armaf Club De Nuit is the most faithful. My 2¢ on Aventus Dupes, for free.

Ethos Succes is, well, I don't know if it's an overt explicit Aventus homage, so I'll say that it reminds me of Aventus, but with more pineapple, which is how I like my Aventus Dupes. The splash, which exhibits no benefits to my skin, but smells very nice, is preferred to Fine Platinum or Captain's Choice Venture, except in the economic analysis - another reason I rarely would buy sets. I have four Ethos soaps, all purchased back when it was done via a PM, and there were fewer bases and varieties available. I have Succes, Melange D'Agrumes, Lavender, and the Lime Collab with CBL Soaps - a once in a lifetime soap I'm lucky to have two tubs of. Best lime soap I've ever used, and it's not even close.

When I use the Henson Ti-22, I think to myself about how this razor in my hand is machined to tolerances far tighter than vintage razors, and made of titanium, a metal with strength and durability that are never even slightly tested in normal shaving use. With care, my Henson razor will work just as well in 10,000 years. How am I supposed to direct my estate, when so much of it is little machined pieces of steel, brass, aluminum and titanium? My recurring adolescent nightmare intrusive image of a post nuclear apocalypse now is a barren lifeless wasteland, thousands of years after humans have blown it all up, but my razors are there, lying in the dirt, in perfect working order.

I also.like to think about the fact that the machines that made my razor made parts for Mars rovers that will be there for millions of years, at least.

I like the fact that the Henson clamps that blade down so close to the edge that chatter isn't even a remote concern. It's better ATG on my upper lip than a NEW Short Comb.

Does the Henson give me a better shave? No, but I haven't given it the use needed to really master the angle, which is dictated by the razor in a way not seen elsewhere. I don't think it could give me a better shave, because I don't think better shaves are possible. For me. It leaves my face feeling ever so slightly bright feeling on my cheeks.

The Henson is also the only DE razor I own which has its own custom DE blade in the RK. Does it make any noticeable improvement in the shave? Nope. It's cool to use though. Like blooming SV. I don't do it except that it's how to get the experience the manufacturer wants you to have.

Public Service announcement: A bottle of Armaf Club De Nuit Intense costs 10% of the cost of Aventus, but is 99% the same scent. Save 90% and get a nice razor, or a bunch of soap. The more you know...

I wish I knew the story of the Simpson Rover. I'll get back to you on that.

Have a great day everyone!
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Today's shave:

It's 2:30am. I'm off for the next two days. I'm listening to the MLB Network Radio nightly hour-long scoreboard recap and highlights show. There's thunder in the distance. We've had waves of storms all day. I am diving deeply into the CeraVe facial cleanser I'm using this week. The question I need to educate my guess for is, how does this stuff affect beard hydration? So I'm going to try and research some ingredients and see how time consuming that's going to be.

This was a great shave. I'm totally enjoying the Zingari recovery splash.
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Today's shave:

Razor: Carbon Cx-316L
Blade: Wizamet Super Iridium
Brush: Simpson Commodore X3
Lather: Noble Otter Barrbarr
Aftershave: Noble Otter Barrbarr
Additional Care:
Humphreys Maravilla
Osma Tradition Alum Block

This shave comes at the end of day one of my weekend. The moment when, at the end of day one, you remember there's a whole other day off yet to come, well, that is one of the best moments of the week.
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I use N.O. Bare, with its powerful Unscent. Good stuff.
I have to admit that I've never used an unscented shaving soap, but N.O. is a really nice slick soap. I have used "unscented" face cleansers, and at least with them, unscented doesn't mean scent-free. The one I'm using this week is unscented, but smells *exactly* like that bubble blowing liquid I used as a kid. I used an unscented face cleansing bar, and it barely had any scent at all, but was vaguely "soapy," if that makes any sense.

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Today's shave

Razor: Karve Christopher Bradley Stainless Steel D Plate, 4" Argyle Handle
Blade: Gillette Nacet Stainless
Brush: Simpson Milk Churn Best Badger
Lather: Zingari Man The Explorer
Aftershave: Zingari Man The Explorer Recovery Splash
Additional Care:
Humphreys Maravilla
Osma Tradition Alum Block

I am blessed with the skin I've got. The fact that multi-blade, hysteresis-based shaving systems caused apocalyptic levels of infected ingrown whiskers isn't my skin's fault.

My DE routine eliminated that issue, and I've avoided so many other issues. Only two soaps out of hundreds have ever burned me. Both contained coffee. Other than that, my face has taken every unknown high-intensity fragrance Ariana & Evans has thrown its way with nary a tingle.

I do four passes, alum, witch hazel, and usually an alcohol splash.

But I have to say that I'm really impressed with how this Zingari Man splash makes my face feel. Really impressed.

An unscented bottle to use with non-Zingari soaps may be in the pipeline.
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Today's shave:

Razor: Gillette NEW Short Comb
Blade: Astra Superior Platinum
Brush: Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements Amber Areolite
Lather: Zingari Man Coconut Nanas
Aftershave: Zingari Man Coconut Nanas Recovery Splash
Additional Care:
Humphreys Maravilla
Osma Tradition Alum Block

When I say that I think the NEW SC is my favorite Gillette DE razor, that means it beats out the Old Type, The NEW LC, the several Techs I've used, the Fatboy, The Slim Adjustable, The various Super Speeds, from flare tips to the plastic of my birth quarter razor. It beats them all for me.

Most of you know this razor, or know of it. This is not true for a lot of young shavers. The Tatara Muramasa has an o ring that will require replacement in 15 years. The forthcoming Blackbird Osprey has an o ring that cannot be replaced. Unless I misunderstood Shane's infomercial, the o ring isn't "needed," but once it wears out, the razor will make a tiny clicking noise when you use it. That's a hard pass for me. My NEW SC is approaching a century of flawless functionality. I demand multigenerational durability from modern razors, because that's the standard set over the past 100 years. O rings, gaskets and washers are failure points. I don't want them in my razors.

And I've got a Muramasa, with its o ring. My fault for not researching it more thoroughly before I bought it.

The NEW SC is a more enjoyable razor than the Muramasa, to me, which has nothing to do with an o ring, but is my experience with them.

If you want a mild, tropical scent that doesn't leave you smelling like a piña colada or sun tan lotion, you might want to give Zingari Man Coconut Nanas a try. It's a vegan base, which lacks nothing performance-wise, if you ask me. It's as good as Sego.
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Today's shave:

Razor: Paradigm Diamondback
Blade: Gillette Nacet Stainless
Brush: Shavemac Silvertip D01
Lather: Saponificio Varesino Cubebe
Aftershave: Saponificio Varesino Cubebe
Additional Care:
Humphreys Maravilla
Osma Tradition Alum Block

All 12 SV shower gels are presented in identical bottles, with consistent font and layout on the labels.

This is the extent of their product lines that feature this visual consistency.

11 of 12 soaps come in a tin. One, only as a refill puck with no container. I bit the bullet and got the Alderwood bowl for that one. No visual consistency, even in the 11 tins. Cubebe has a screw top.

6 aftershaves are tall. 5 are shorter but still cylindrical. 70th is in a completely different cubic glass bottle.

It's all beautifully done, but it's kind of funny to me that they have no consistent graphic design, except for shower gel.

I need to get out more.


This is my only Shavemac brush. I built it using their incredible website. It's worth every penny.

Have a great day everyone!
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My Barber has moved away. I found him after a year of searching, when I moved here 6 years ago. He met every requirement I needed. He was a Master Barber. He did a very nice hot towel shave. I told him what I wanted - a taper with a #3 on the sides and an inch on top, and shave the back of my neck with a blade and hot lather - one time, on my first visit. 6 weeks later on my second visit, he greeted me by name and asked if I wanted the same cut, which he remembered. He'd reconfirm every time. That was above and beyond for me. I'll miss him.

He was not the best technical Barber I ever had, she is probably still in Baltimore, but he was very good, and... he had what I think of as an understanding of the traditional Barber/client relationship - a relationship that is important and meaningful to me, and which is harder to find, as my world morphs into the world of my descendants.

I've loved going to the Barber my whole life. My mother, bless her, really wanted to avoid my first haircut being traumatic, so she went overboard and started hyping the event to me days in advance. I was there, of course, but I have no memory of this. This is is what she has told me. She portrayed it as a big celebration in my honor, and the Barber was wise to the whole strategy. Apparently, it worked. I had a delightful time, and received my very first piece of bubblegum from the Barber as a reward.

I don't remember that piece of bubblegum, but I remember getting bubblegum from that Barber when he cut my hair before I moved away to college. In the car afterward was the only time I cried about leaving my hometown. He was my Barber from age 3 to 18. He was great. The shop was great. Saturday mornings, with my Dad, the "crew" of guys who just liked hanging out there and shooting the breeze, wrinkled issues of Field and Stream and Popular Mechanics and Sports Illustrated. Honestly, in a way, it was kind of like Mayberry. Only good memories.

It is my experience that the hair cutting event, as performed by beauticians, is fundamentally different from, and for my purposes inferior to, the service provided by a licensed Master Barber. In this State, a Beautician cannot shave me, and given the general quality of the cut, I would not let them near my face with an open blade. So there's that.

But if there's one single act that is a microcosm of the essence and value inherent in the traditional Barber/Client relationship, an example can be found in this video, 9:15 in:


This is @BarberDave 's Barber shave video. The client is reclined and his face is covered with a hot towel. As Dave approaches the client to remove the towel, he gently touches the client's shoulder. It's the tiniest detail, perhaps the farthest from the actual shaving of any. He mentions it later and explains the touch. Its sole purpose is to protect and preserve the relaxation of the client. In fact, every single action a Master Barber performs on a client has this - the relaxation and comfort of the client - as a central principle of the service. That touch on the shoulder is one of literally hundreds of consciousness actions the Barber does in a particular way, to make the shave or haircut as relaxing and comfortable as possible. It is a level of service, developed over centuries(!), that you will not find at a Supercuts or Sportcuts or whatever factory chain you choose. They cannot provide that service because they are not Master Barbers and have not been trained. And for the most part, those folks are very young and have not lived much life yet. Here's why this is important to me.

A taper. #3 on the sides. An inch on top.

@BarberDave will tell you, any Barber could do this cut. The haircut, while being the actual and formal cause of the entire relationship, is subsumed into a ritual of carefully designed acts of comforting and caring that has benefitted me *as a person* for most of my life. For you see, all the while the Master Barber is providing the service, there is a conversation, or not, a good Barber quickly reads the client's inclination to converse. I made my decision about what college to attend because of a conversation with my Barber, that wasn't about college. I want a Bartender Barber, or a Pastor Barber. That makes this a tall order.

To me, there's a sense in which what Barbers do is a vocation. It's a relationship in which Caring is crucial. And I fear this is disappearing.

So now I have to find a new Master Barber, who is good and friendly, in this town of 30,000 people. This might be an advantage in my search - small town values, lifetime clientele, a small town hangout, and all that. But its a slow process. Like watching hair grow sometimes, literally.

I know of a great Barber in Nashville, but with traffic that's 2 hours of driving, plus, he's in a super wealthy neighborhood. $120 haircut! I didn't ask about the shave. If I had that budget, I'd just use the money to start flying to Tucson every couple of months!

Anybody have any ideas about how to find my next dream Barber? I've done it before, but I'm always looking for advice about things like this. It's a form of being cared for that I've valued my whole life. Any input is welcome!

The previous paragraph was my original post. I wasn't sure where best to post it. What goes on here in the Journals feels like where the significance of this event for me would be appreciated, and the level and diversity of life experience and thoughtfulness I'm blessed to encounter here can only be found here. Journal writers here have lived a lot and know a lot and care about each other.

At any rate, this is what I'm thinking about today, and it's kind of shaving related, so it felt to me like I'd most completely get my thoughts expressed in a Journal entry.

I do feel better. I really appreciate you reading all this. Barbers are important to me, and so is the Cadre.

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Today's shave:

Razor: Wolfman WR2 1.05
Blade: Gillette Nacet Stainless
Brush: Simpson Berkeley 46 B
Lather: CBL Orion Hammam Spa
Aftershave: Epsilon 01
Additional Care:
Osma Tradition Alum Block

A fundamental particle possesses no specific values for what make up its properties - mass, location, speed, momentum. None of these things are determined and become actual values until they are observed. Until a particle is observed, it only exists as a set of probabilities. If we look closely enough, nothing makes sense.

This was my rumination for this morning's 4 am shave. Geometry, Physics, Baseball. My trifecta of idle pondering, sometimes about all three at the same time. The geometry needed to describe the physics of a baseball is old school, comforting classical stuff. Not the mind-bending seeming impossibilities science has uncovered in the last century.

It was a silent, stress-free, completely successful shave, that I almost didn't notice because I was so absorbed in purely recreational thought.

Lathering Orion with the Berkeley was where I sort of went on autopilot. I just ordered a jar yesterday. I'm going to get a couple more now, because it was the astonishing residual slickness tonight that snapped me back into the world and out of my head. I want backups.

Have a great day everyone!
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A fundamental particle possesses no specific values for what make up its properties - mass, location, speed, momentum. None of these things are determined and become actual values until they are observed. Until a particle is observed, it only exists as a set of probabilities. If we look closely enough, nothing makes sense.

This was my rumination for this morning's 4 am shave. Geometry, Physics, Baseball. My trifecta of idle pondering, sometimes about all three at the same time. The geometry needed to describe the physics of a baseball is old school, comforting classical stuff. Not the mind-bending seeming impossibilities science has uncovered in the last century.
I've always liked this quote from Niels Bohr..

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