SOTD 11/07/2021
Pre-shave: Stirling menthol pre-shave
Soap: Sebum Gold: Aqua
Witch hazel: Theyer’s Cucumber (thanks
@Spider )
Aftershave: Sebum Gold: Aqua
Razor: Wade and Butcher 5/8 half hollow
Brush: Alpha Chubberset prototype synthetic
I was generously PIFed this soap and aftershave by
@Fenster, who recieved it as a PIF from
@BarberDave. Let me just say, many times, expectations do not meet reality, but if you have low expectations and if the product meets or exceeds your expectations you are pleasantly surprised. In this case, I came in with low expectations as I do for many new soaps. Due in part to the financial shock and awe of this product(look up their website and you’ll see what I mean), I forced myself to not expect it to reach the stars. Now for the shave and properties off the soap. The scent is subjective, but it does have a salty, sandy, sea leathery scent to it, it’s not my cup of tea, but it is interesting on its own. The latherablility of this soap is suspect and NOT what I would expect from a product that carries its immense price tag. Let me say that I’ve shaved with this soap for the last three days and started out by lathering it with a Badger brush, in the traditional manner(damp, mostly rung out brush) I took an almond sized portion of the croap and deposited it on the bottom of my scuttle and built the lather until it was a sticky white paste on the brush tips. Taking it to my face after this point, I worked the lather on my damp paste until I started lightly dipping the tips of the brush into hot water, to build the lather up. It quickly got a moist feel and a glossy sheen to it, which in most cases is great. My expectation was a luxuriously thick, protective, and slick lather, but the reality was a thin yet slick, watery lather with little body, and basically no cushion(this is after three days of lathering it). Pass one was WTG and was ok and somewhat comfortable, but it was no where near as protective a lather as I was used to and could feel some irritation on my neck and under my lower lip. Pass two, XTG was a noticeably thinner lather than pass one with zero cushion, but it was still pretty slick. Taking my time, I ended up with a fair pass, but it was uncomfortable and the lather was super watery. I wasn’t paying attention to the lather on my blade and didn’t notice it running down the spine and into the pivot
. This never happens with any other soap I use and water in the pivot is a major pet peeve of mine. Once I noticed this, I had to rinse the blade constantly so it wouldn’t run down the razor and on my hand and the pivot. By the end of this pass my cheeks were both sensitive. Final ATG pass, the lather would turn my cheeks white if I painted it on, but quickly dissipated there after, though it was still moderately slick. I felt at this point that the lather was enough to get the razor to glide around my face, but had no protective properties left to it. Post shave feel, I had pink cheeks, chin, and neck and felt sore all over.
This is not due to lack of keenness on my razor or technique(I’ve been wet shaving 10 years). I have shaved with a straight razor well over 1000 times and their razor passes the HHT easily with a 4 times used Escher edge. Say what you will about my lathering ability or shaving technique, but a soap that costs as much as this one should explode into a luxuriously thick and protective lather as soon as my brush touches it. There shouldn’t need to be a manual written on how to lather it. Especially if test lathering this soap is going to cost you $5-10 each use!
Now thankfully the aftershave contains zero alcohol, because my face would have been on fire. The aftershave oil, there’s no other thing to call it, definitely soothed my enraged cheeks and neck. The scent is basically all leather, like a salty leather and dried down to a salty seaweed scent in my opinion. I do like the way the aftershave feels and how quickly it was absorbed into my skin, but my skin was still a bit sensitive after a couple of hours. Overall, I’m giving the shave a 3/10, I managed an uncomfortable DFS.
This being my third shave with this particular soap and aftershave I’ve determined that I like and would use the aftershave on occasion, but I feel as though Williams, Arko, and Palmolive shaving soaps are all more luxurious and protective than Sebum shaving soap.
I am very grateful to both
@BarberDave and
@Fenster for generously providing me the opportunity to try a soap and aftershave I would otherwise never try.