| ETHOS | CBL | Nuavia | SV | PAA |
SoS | 5 | 4.5 | 5 | 4.75 | 4 |
EoL | 5 | 4.75 | 4.5 | 5 | 4.5 |
Cushion | 5 | 4.5 | 5 | 4.75 | 5 |
Slicknes | 4.5 | 5 | 4.75 | 4.5 | 5 |
Residual | 4.5 | 5 | 4.75 | 5 | 5 |
Post Feel | 5 | 4.75 | 5 | 4.75 | 4.5 |
| 29/30 | 28.5/30 | 29/30 | 28.75/30 | 28/30 |
SoS- Strength of Scent.
EoL- Ease of Lather.
Cushion- How much blade feel was present during the shave.
Slickness- Was there any tugging or skipping while lathered.
Residual Slickness- Was there any tughing or skipping after final rinse.
Post-shave Feel- How my face felt after the shave. Was it hydrated, dry, soft, or tacky, feeling.
I chose these categories because I feel like these are most commonly debated about amongst the wet-shaving community. There may be some of you, like myself, who doesn't give a RIP about residual slickness but others do.
Procedure:
1. Take lid off of soap and set on counter to record strength of scent. Record sos during each pass.
2. Soak brush and shake out excess water using 4 shakes. I did this to try an maintain the same amount of water in the brush each time I load.
3. 20 second load. If SV were a softer soap I would scoop out ¼ teaspoon like I normally do, so instead I will do a 20 second load for each soap.
4. Face lather and add water using medicine dropper. Record amount of water used.
5. Lather face and do a standard WTG pass. Record slickness and cushion.
6. Wet face, re-lather, and do a XTG pass from Left to Right. Record slickness and cushion.
7. Wet face, re-lather, and do a XTG pass from Right to Left. Record slickness and cushion.
8. Wet face, no lather, and clean up to test residual slickness.
9. Post shave lather, rinse, towel dry, and wait 5 minutes to record post-shave feel.
10. Follow up with usual post-shave routine.
Results:
ETHOS and PannaCrema Nuavia were dead even in their own way. For me they both had a powerful scent. Their cushion was consistent throughout the shave, and their post-shave feel was unlike any other. Nuavia Rosaa was a tad slicker, but ETHOS was a little easier to lather. At the end of the day I could not say one was overall better than the other.
Next was SV. Now let me just say that Cosmo was in the 4.2 beta version and not the 4.3. I do not know how big a difference that is, but given the results it could make that much of a difference. SV's slickness scored lower because it dried out really fast on pass 2 and a little at the end of pass 1. There was a little dryness on the post-shave feel, but when combined with their splash it went away very quickly. SoS off of the puck wasn't the strongest, but once lathered it was like ETHOS and Nuavia Rossa. A very enjoyable soap, and I am very curious about the beta 4.3 base now. Thanks Dave.
Next was CBL. Now I am curious how this would have scored if I used the Tonsorial base. SoS was not as strong off of the puck and did not last when lathering. I did note that this could have been from the cooling agent. Roasted Oatmeal Stout is very strong and provides great cushion, another category where Iron Throne dropped a little. However, CBL Premium base has a slickness and residual slickness out of this world, and I cannot say the same about the Tonsorial base. Post-shave feel was a little dry, but the cooling agent made my face feel super fresh which is why it dropped only a quarter of a point. Overall this is a wonderful soap and if you don't have a tub I highly suggest getting some!
Lastly was PAA. The surprising test. I really did not think this soap would score this high, but cushion, slickness, and residual slickness were all fantastic. The scent was not as strong off the puck unless you put your nose in it, but was a little stronger once lathered. EoL was a little longer than the others and post shave feel was drier, but this soap can really perform with the rest of them.
This was a ton of fun and honestly after the way PAA scored I was ready to say that all five soaps would be considered elite in my den. However, when you think of pro teams and the elite players in the league it is a small percentage and when you think of number of pro players vs. the number of college players that is already a small percentage. So PAA will not be considered elite in my den, but it will be a top Tier 1 soap. The minimum score for elite soaps will be 28.5/30 from now on.
Just as
@BarberDave said the great thing about this hobby is it is all preference. What may be elite to me may not be considered elite to others and visce-versa.This was a ton of fun and I highly recommend y'all doing it with your own den!
Thanks for hanging in there and reading Cadre!