The Shaving Cadre

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Welcome to the Danger Zone!

About the Doctor Visit. So We all complain about insurance in some form or fashion. I complain because it's not what it used to be and I pay more now than I did six years ago. But all that being said, I really shouldn't complain too much. The Office of Group Benefits that manages state employee benefits to include medical insurance just started a partnership with a group called Access2Day. Basically it's a partnership with a bunch of physician practices to see people in our health group for minor situations. You don't need an appointment, you don't need to be a prior patient, you get bumped to the head of the line, and you don't pay anything.
This melding of services is financially incentivised through the Affordable Care Act. It appears to be working.
 
Razor: Merkur Progress
Blade: Gillette 7 O'clock Super Stainless (Green) (2nd Shave)
Soap/Cream: CBL Premium Soap - CBL Tonsorial - Balsamic Oud (8th Shave)
Brush: Stirling Synthetic
The Penultimate Aftershave: Humphrey's Lavender Witch Hazel
The Ultimate Aftershave: Fine Accouterments - Platinum


Just a quick entry today guys. Another really great shave with CBL Tonsorial. The more I use this soap the better it gets. I am definitely optimizing how this lather works for me. I may have mentioned it before...but I think this soap has better post shave qualities than I previously gave it credit.

Busted out the 7 O'clock Green the other day and I am not sure why I didn't realize that this was such a nice shaver. Sharp and Smooth...but not overly sharp.

Three passes and a cleanup...a few glugs of fine Platinum (and I will be going back for more), and I am ready for the world to embrace me.

The Danger Zone!!!

Trying to get over a cold as of late. It feels like I have been sick a lot lately. Nope...just a couple times since the summer. But they have been bad colds. The wife is another example that I feel there has been a lot of sickness in the Danger Household, she has bronchitis. It all just needs to go away. Trudging off to work today...and I really don't feel like lit. I am just really run down and feel like I want to sleep all day. Oh well, It's Friday and I have Monday and Tuesday off (Monday is a holiday and Tuesday I am having more dental work done). So Just power through it I guess.

I Hope the Cadre has a wonderful Friday!
 
Razor: Merkur Progress
Blade: Gillette 7 O'clock Super Stainless (Green) (3rd Shave)
Soap/Cream: Jerry Stark Handmade Shaving Soap
Brush: Stirling Synthetic
The Penultimate Aftershave: Humphrey's Lavender Witch Hazel
The Ultimate Aftershave: A&E Shave Serum No.3

Good Stuff Up Front:

  • Scent - The scent is usually not much of a factor for me...but I do like something there. This soap smells great out of the container...but really light during the shave.
  • Lather-ability - While I used a fair amount of water, and some may even call it thirsty, I thought the soap was pretty easy to lather.
  • Slickness - One of the slickest soaps I have ever tried.
  • Cushion/Protection/Glide - Outstanding in all three. I felt like this soap was made for a straight razor user.
  • Residual Slickness - Not bad, but could be better.
  • Post Shave Feel - The soap wasn't drying, but I didn't feel like it added a lot either. I reached for a shave serum to add some extra hydration.
  • Final Grade - Tier 1, Box 4
The Soap Sample Pass Around Box came my way the other day and I wanted to dig right in. So I went ahead and had a nice relaxing shave last night. I decided to go with the Jerry Stark Hand Made Shave Soap. Jerry Stark is the legendary straight razor maker and I guess a couple of years ago he started to make his own soap. To the best of my knowledge, I think he only makes two different soaps...a tallow version and a vegan version. While sample doesn't say...I am pretty sure this is the tallow version.

I had to look pretty hard for anything about this soap. Mr. Stark's website isn't really all that put together. But looking on Reddit, I was able to find a review that included the ingredients to this soap: distilled water, stearic acid, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, castor oil, beef tallow, lard, glycerin, sodium lactate, lanolin, babassu oil, avocado oil, kokum butter, cocoa butter, palm oil, shea butter and coconut oil.

Jerry Stark's website says that the scent is a Redwood Ember scent. I have to admit, I have no idea what a redwood ember smells like. It turns out that a quick internet search of the term "redwood ember" reveals a fragrance oil by Bulk Apothecary. They describe this fragrance oil as "A spicy blend of cinnamon and clove that has a beautiful floral bouquet and woody undertone."

So all that being said, a deep dive of my nose into the soap and I do detect a slight woody note or maybe something earthy. But most of what I get is that subtle cherry note you have with almond scents. I definitely don't get cinnamon, or clove. I definitely don't get any kind of floral not at all. All I get is almond/cherry. It is a pleasant scent and the scent out of the container is what drew me to it.

Out of the container the scent is light but discernible. Unfortunately, this is the strongest the soaps scent will be. Because once you start lathering, the scent almost goes away completely.

I am not sure if this soap requires a lot of water or if I just felt the need to give it a lot of water. But the soap drank a good bit. It was fairly easy to work and I didn't need to unduly work the brush and the bowl. I placed the scoops of soap in my lather bowl, pressed it into the bottom. I did bloom the soap a bit...but not long. I rinsed my face with a bit of the bloom water before I completely emptied it. Then I loaded my brush for a good 20 seconds or so. Directly applied the soap to my face and worked up a nice lather. Yup...I am a face lather-er.

When this lather is optimal...man is it super slick! And in all seriousness...it might be the slickest soap I have ever tried. Imagine...a guy known for making straights makes a really slick soap. And it wasn't just slick, this soap provides some of the best protection and cushion of any soap I have tried. It's pretty darn good. On the first and second passes, the soap had that sticky shiny quality to it when you work it between your fingers. I really had high hopes for how this soap was performing.

Then I hit the third pass. Okay, it isn't like the soap stopped performing. It just was a step down from the previous two passes. I have to mention, that after each pass when I shave, I wet my face and leave the water dripping from my skin. It's something that I do that has worked for me and usually by the third pass, the lather performs its best. Yeah, not this time. It still performed well, just not as good as the other passes. If I had to guess, I might have over hydrated in the beginning. Or I may not have needed to wet my face after each pass.

I finished my shave without a nick or weeper. The shave for the most part was effortless. I tested the residual slickness with a couple of touch-ups. Residual Slickness was good...but I wouldn't say great. I have definitely experienced much worse in other soaps. The post shave feel...well...I wasn't all that impressed. The soap didn't leave my face dry, but from the ingredient list...I was expecting better. I definitely felt the need to add something to my skin for additional skin feeding...so I reached for my A&E Shave Serum.

All in all, I ended up with a DFS+. I can definitely see why those who use straight razors would like this soap. It offers maximum slickness and protection right off the bat, and I know many people prize these qualities above all else. For me, these are important qualities, but I like a total package. While this soap is excellent during the shave...I wish it had a bit more at the end of it also.

Okay, I am going to continue to use Chad @Cvargo 's scale for soaps. If I was a straight razor shaver...this soap would likely score higher for me. But I am not. And while things like slickness and protection are important, I weigh my soaps heavily with post shave feel. And unfortunately I feel like the post shave feel with this soap lacked considerably. Not bad...but not enough either. That's why I am giving this a final grade of:

Tier 1, Box 4

I wanted to give this soap a Tier 2, Box 5 grade, but an examination of the individual components didn't let me. I think another person may give this soap a higher grade. But this is where I am at.


TSC Soap Chart.jpg

The Danger Zone!!!

It's Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Day! And as such, is another state holiday. So I have the day off. The wife and I have pretty much lounged around this weekend trying to get better from the "stench of death" that we...and everyone else it seems...are carrying. I am feeling a whole lot better. I just have a bit of a lingering cough. The wife seems to be doing better...but her coughs are still kind of bad sounding and she is just tired all the time. Tomorrow I go in for more dental work. I have these fillings from when I was a kid. They are so old that I don't ever remember getting them. Anyway...they cracked and need replaced. So tomorrow I will be walking around for a good bit of the day with a half paralyzed face doing my best Sylvester Stallone impersonation.

I hope the Cadre has a wonderful Monday! Whether you are at work or have the day off...kick some ass and start the week off right!
 
Razor: Merkur Progress
Blade: Gillette 7 O'clock Super Stainless (Green) (4th Shave)
Soap/Cream: Oleo & Company - Rush Street
Brush: Stirling Synthetic
The Penultimate Aftershave: Humphrey's Lavender Witch Hazel
The Ultimate Aftershave: Fine Accouterments - Fresh Vetiver

Good Stuff Up Front:

  • Scent - Good stuff really, and if the scent lasted through the shave, I would likely buy the soap just for the scent. Out of the tub is warm spice forward, florals next, and a bit of citrus at the end.
  • Lather-ability - One of the easiest lathering soaps.
  • Slickness - Not nearly as slick as I would like.
  • Cushion/Protection/Glide - A little lacking here also.
  • Residual Slickness - Good but not great.
  • Post Shave Feel - Wishing it was a lot better.
  • Final Grade - Tier 2, Box 5
Second sample out of the Pass-Around Box, and today I went with Oleo & Company Rush Street. I gravitated to this soap for mainly two reasons. First, this is a soap maker that I have wanted to try for a while now. They seem to have been on the scene for several years and I know several other companies have either had Oleo make a soap or two for them, or have done collaborations with them. The second reason is the scent...I was heavily drawn to this soap because of the scent.

If anyone has read my journals, you would know that I am a big fan of the Vide Poche collaboration between Chatillon Lux and Declaration Grooming. I absolutely LOVE that scent. This soap is in that same wheelhouse...well sort of. I guess I will explain. Sticking my nose in the container I come out with warm spice up front. But then I get nice floral scents. And at the very back of it all I get some light citrus. I love this combination of scents for some reason. Vide Poche is floral front as apposed to warm spice...but it's a similar combination. I really wasn't too far off...as Oleo describes their scent notes as: Grapefruit, Coriander, Cedar, Ginger, Labdanum, Patchouli, Vetiver and Tobacco.

Lathering this soap was super easy. I didn't require a ton of water and it didn't require a ton of work. Same as yesterday, I pressed some soap into the bottom of my shave bowl and after a short bloom, took my Stirling Synthetic shave brush to about a 20 second load. Then I began to face lather. It didn't take long to build a very nice thick lather. I added more water to try to get it as slick as I could, and the lather took in the water, but just stayed the same consistency.

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So the slickness...this is where the soap started to lose me. I don't know what I was expecting as far as slickness goes. Maybe I was expecting a lot after the Jerry Stark shave. But to be honest...I thought the slickness in this soap was lacking. And such, I didn't find that cushion and protection in this soap was all that impressive either. I guess I might be a little unfair to this soap. It's not like it was bad or anything...it just wasn't great. Maybe I am having an off day.

Usually with soaps, as I layer more soap on my face for an additional pass, the soap gets thinner and thinner. After three passes (wetting my face between each pass), the soap really stayed the same consistency as when I first lathered! This tells me that this soap does require a lot of water and/or a lot of work. Or maybe it just is a really stable and thick lather. Not really sure. All I know is that the lather acted like it was in the "finished" range when I began to shave.

Going back to the scent for a second. The scent of the soap didn't really intensify or weaken during the lather and shave. But it seemed to me that the florals and fruit went away and the warm spice became more peppery. Not really bad...but just wasn't what I was expecting.

The residual slickness of this soap is good...not great, and as such...the post shave feel is above average, but no where near elite. I finished off my shave with a couple glugs of Fine Fresh Vetiver...so you know I will smell great today!

To be honest...I am a little disappointed in this soap. Again, maybe it isn't fair...because I still think this is a pretty good soap. But today, it just didn't measure up to my expectations. I'm giving this soap a:

Tier 2, Box 5

I really wanted to like this soap more. Maybe if I use it a bit more I might like it more. And if I was given a tub of Oleo, I likely wouldn't give it away.


TSC Soap Chart.jpg



The Danger Zone!!!

Going back to the dentist today. Getting the left side of my mouth worked on and as such, half of my face will be numb for a good bit of the day. After this work, I will need to go back again at some point to get a couple of chips taken care of to my two top incisors. But the dentist (who happens to be the wife of my brother's best friend...so I really trust her judgement) wants to fit me for a night guard. So I have had these chips fixed several times over the past 12 years or so. It just keeps breaking (don't tell her, but I guess pulling bottle caps off with my teeth isn't a good idea 🤪 ) and the dentist has determined that they keep breaking because I am grinding my teeth at night. I tried a mouth piece once, but it felt like I was gagging all night. She assures me that the one she wants to fit me with is thinner and will be a lot better. So I am going to go with it. I am really hoping this isn't one of those things that is a totally waste of money...because they certainly ain't cheap!

It's Tuesday Cadre! I hope the week is treating you right!
 
I'm a bit surprised by your experience with this one. I started looking into the when I learned they made soap for A&E back in the day. I think it was A&E? I know they made soap for someone that thought was really good stuff. But such is YMMV and the fluctuations that come with using samples as well.
 
I used to grind my teeth horribly at night when I was a youngster. Some of my teeth wore down a bit, but thankfully I never chipped anything, yikes! Never figure out why I did it, just phase I guess? Stress maybe? 🤷‍♂️
 
I'm a bit surprised by your experience with this one. I started looking into the when I learned they made soap for A&E back in the day. I think it was A&E? I know they made soap for someone that thought was really good stuff. But such is YMMV and the fluctuations that come with using samples as well.
Yeah...I know A&E used them as well as others for a while. I was a bit surprised too. Honestly, it was just my experience with this particular soap at this particular time in this particular container...so on and so forth. This was likely user error. And I might do a rerun with one of the other Oleo soaps when I finish with these other two.

I used to grind my teeth horribly at night when I was a youngster. Some of my teeth wore down a bit, but thankfully I never chipped anything, yikes! Never figure out why I did it, just phase I guess? Stress maybe? 🤷‍♂️

There are a host of reasons why people grind their teeth. Stress seems to be the one we blame the most. But...there are many other reason, abnormal bite, sleep apnea, other sleeping disorders, hormonal issues, acid reflux, mental health, and a host of other issues that are too numerous to name. With me...it likely isn't stress. Yeah I get stressed like anyone else, but I carry it differently than a lot people. I am sure I have some degree of sleep apnea, though since I lost a lot of weight a while back I think it might be better. This of course is undiagnosed. I have a degree of PTSD, though I would never put myself in the same category as some of my other brethren. I had acid reflux for a very long time. From time to time I have some very unusual dreams...etc, etc, etc. So who know why I grind my teeth. All I know is that my dentist told me that it was the last time she would fix the chips in my front teeth until I get an occlusal splint.

This morning I got my fillings replaced and the dentist went ahead and fixed my chips...again. Then she scanned my teeth for a splint. So in about two weeks I will start wearing a fitted splint. I have tried an over the counter version of an occlusal splint before and it didn't go well. I kept feeling like I was gagging and choking all night. The dentist...while she can't promise anything...assures me that this one will be very different. She says it will fit into place and I really shouldn't notice it much at night at all. She is also making sure it is made as thin as it possibly can. So...we will see. The splint isn't covered by insurance at all...so if it doesn't take...it will be a pretty expensive mistake.

Thanks guys for reading my VERY boring journal!
 
Razor: Merkur Progress
Blade: Gillette 7 O'clock Super Stainless (Green) (5th Shave)
Soap/Cream: Siliski Soaps - Toasted Almond
Brush: Stirling Synthetic
The Penultimate Aftershave: Humphrey's Lavender Witch Hazel
The Ultimate Aftershave: Figaro Monsieur


Good Stuff Up Front:
  • Scent - Amazing and one of the most consistent smelling soaps from out of the tub to the end of the shave.
  • Lather-ability - Super easy to lather without a lot of work.
  • Slickness - If you want this slick...you can definitely make it slick without compromising the consistency of the lather.
  • Cushion/Protection/Glide - Very solid in the these three aspects.
  • Residual Slickness - Very Good
  • Post Shave Feel - Elite Post Shave Feel
  • Final Grade - Tier 1 , Box 2
I'm a little behind here. I shaved with the Siliski soap yesterday, but didn't have time for the review. So, today I will be Toasted Almond and Tomorrow I will review Central Texas - Mr. Pepper.

The first thing we almost always judge a soap by is the scent. What do we all do when presented with a new tub, puck, or sample of soap? We stick our nose in it. Toasted Almond is a really nice scent. A lot of us will associate the scent of an almond soap with that light almond fragrance of a good Italian soap. Nutty, but with that slight, almost cherry scent. The scent on Toasted Almond by Siliski soap is not quite like that. It still has that cherry like almond scent to it. But I would equate this more to Amaretto than to toasted almond. And yes...I know Amaretto is an almond liqueur...but it has a much sweeter aroma than what I would consider an almond scent. Either way I like it...and I like it a lot! The scent is very pronounced and not overpowering. This is also one of the only soaps I have ever tried, in which the scent stayed the same strength from first sniff out of the tub, all the way through my final rinse of the shave!

Okay...enough abut the scent. I think you get that I like it. I am going to try to speed this one up, as I realize I am running out of time! This was a really easy soap to lather. Minimal amounts of water will get you a nice thick lather. Little elbow grease required too. Add more water and this will give you a nice slick soap. The lather maintained a pretty good consistency throughout all phases of the shave and I didn't have to worry about dissipating lather.

1579868955871.png

The shave itself to be very nice indeed. I added a bit more water to the lather and was rewarded with a nice and super slick soap. Maybe not the slickest I have ever had...and certainly not like the Jerry Stark soap I tried earlier. But I think it is slicker than most soaps I have tried. Cushion and Protection are pretty top notch. I didn't have any issues (despite I probably should have used a new blade).

The residual slickness was really good...top tier for sure. And as with soaps that have really good residual slickness...the post shave feel was excellent. In fact! I had that really nice post shave feel throughout the work day! You know...that nice feeling your face has when you go to rub your chin because you are in deep thought and the get distracted by how good your skin feels? Yeah...that's the one. This soap has some of the best post shave feel I have experienced with a soap. So, this soap will obviously get a good grade from me.

Speaking of grades...let's get on with it. As I have stated before...I weigh a lot of my soaps by the type of post shave feel I get. That doesn't mean that I ignore the other aspects of the soap. After all...if you have a soap that can't perform but still gives you a good post shave feel...It's still not a great soap. So if I wasn't judging this soap with post shave feel in mind...I would likely put this Middle of Tier 1. But add in the post shave feel and this soap is amazing. Maybe not elite (not yet at least...I would have to shave with it a time or two before I am willing to make that statement), but pretty darn close. That's why I am giving this soap a:

Tier 1, Box 2

Like I said...it's not elite (yet), but it is pretty darn close!


TSC Soap Chart.jpg




The Danger Zone!!!

So work just got a little interesting yesterday. Let me back up a bit. My section (the investigative section) has been fully staffed for a while. Back in October one of my coworkers went on maternity leave. Well, the stress of the job and the fact that she got another job while on maternity leave...she didn't come back. The beginning of December, another one of my coworkers was let go for reasons related to things other than work. So we are down two investigators. The past month and a half my supervisor has bee trying to fill those positions. But anyone who has tried to hire people by posting an advertisement (ours is posted on a civil service website, so while not the local paper, it's not far from it) knows that you get a lot milk...but little cream. Well, the boss is close to hiring at least one of those positions. And then...one of our investigators received an offer for another job yesterday...and he is taking it. So...I just got assigned a crap ton of cases that just overloaded me. And things at work just got a whole lot more interesting!

It's Friday Cadre! And While it has been a short week for me...I am glad that it's the weekend. Time to relax, reflect, and refresh! Go out with a good one Cadre!
 
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