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McVeyMac's Straight Razor (and other traditional wet shaving) Adventures

Dagwoodz said:
Just like the way a Cady rides...Smooth! Gotta love it, great shave!

Thanks Josh

Majorrich said:
I don't have anything to add, so hit the "like button"

Great Rich. I hope the Miata us able to run today with the beautiful weather.

cmh737 said:
Smoooooth - excellent!

Thanks Chris

I just took the BRW back to the Hard, Trans and Black Arks to see if I can get the tugging to stop. I'll check back in after while with the results
 
McVeyMac said:
Great Rich. I hope the Miata us able to run today with the beautiful weather.
I picked it up and had to take it back because it was still suffering from the same problems I took it in for. It turns out there were wires that had rubbed against something for so long that they were shorting and killing the ignition. Fixed that, and now the cruise control and radio quit working. **Sigh**
 
McVeyMac said:
I just took the BRW back to the Hard, Trans and Black Arks to see if I can get the tugging to stop. I'll check back in after while with the results

Standing by.....
 
C-Mon's are great! I would say highly underrated but those who know just pay that premium! I would put them up to the Fila's in performance.
 
Sskim3 said:
C-Mon's are great! I would say highly underrated but those who know just pay that premium! I would put them up to the Fila's in performance.

I would have to give the advantage to the C-MON compared to my Fila example Tom, but I am sure that is the result of the bevel that was put on by the person who honed it. Both are great razors.
 
Well, Saturday's shave after the Hard, Trans. and Black Ark progression was better, but still a bit disappointing in the tugging department. I put the bevel under my USB scope, and it appeared that the edge still had some places where refinement was called for. On Sunday, I went back to the Soft Ark and did about 150 laps with light pressure, the similar on the Hard, followed by 150 on the Trans. and 150 on the Black. I scoped it again, and it appeared to be more reined at the apex, which is what I was shooting for. The shave this AM was also a little disappointing. I am going to go a few more with touchup honing after each shave to see if it improves.
 
Nice read on the honing Walt.

I'm sure you will get the edge where you want it!
 
Well today's shave with the BRW was improved over yesterday, and the tuginess is reduced. This is perplexing to me as I had done a combined 300+ laps on the bench trans. and black Arks before shaving with it the first time. If this observation holds true, that means 30 or so laps on my 2X8 Black in the shaving den can improve the edge over 150 laps on my 3x12 Black bench stone. If I recall, I realized a similar phenomenon last year when I honed this razor with the same progression. If this observation is observation that has now been repeated holds true, that means:

[list type=decimal][*]My Bench Stones are not as broken in as my 2X8 (this makes sense as the 3X12s are a lot of real estate to break in).[*]My Bench Stone Black Ark is not as fine as my 2x8 (this is plausible because, well, they are stones).[*]Given the dimensions of my bench stones, I tend to not do x strokes. Given the 2x8 dimensions, I always do x strokes. If the stones are not completely flat, straight back and forth honing can result in areas of the bevel where the stone is not hitting. Performing x strokes will reduce the likelihood of this happening.[*]I have a straight edge, and have looked at my bench stones for flatness. They are not completely flat end to end with some light shining under the straight edge on either end, but I was unable to see any light under the straight edge side to side across the stone. I elected not to lap my bench stones because of this as I had already broken them in, and I felt that there would not be a problem.[/list type=decimal]
So there are a couple of ways to go here. What do y'all think is the best route?
 
Hmmm well me being a novice, I've always thought that your stones had to be as flat as possible. So I would lap the bench and see what happened. What could it hurt? Also I thought the advantage of having a wider stone was so you didn't have to do x strokes, is that incorrect? Is there an advantage to x strokes versus straight strokes?
 
Nice read and observations Walt. I wish I could give some advice on the stones, but I still chalk up any natural stone successes I have to dumb luck lol.
 
clyde72 said:
Hmmm well me being a novice, I've always thought that your stones had to be as flat as possible. So I would lap the bench and see what happened. What could it hurt? Also I thought the advantage of having a wider stone was so you didn't have to do x strokes, is that incorrect? Is there an advantage to x strokes versus straight strokes?

Craig, you are 100% correct in your assessment that a 3" wide stone should not require x strokes, and the stones should be flat. My straight edge when laid longitudinally (across the 12" dimension) on the 3x12 Black shows that it is not completely flat, that some light shines through at either end. But, in the middle 3/4 of the stone, no light. Additionally, when I place the straight edge horizontally (across the 3" dimension), I see no light in the front, middle and back of the stone. Since this is the dimension of my honing travel, I calculated that it would be fine. I should probably check more than 3 points on the stone to be sure. If there is a high spot on a stone, and you are not performing x strokes, there will be parts of the blade that will not touch the stone during the honing stoke. If you are doing x strokes and there is a high spot, more of the blade will hit the high spot giving you a better result.

Honing with Arks is a lot like straight razor shaving. You have to want it. They are extremely hard stones, and they are very difficult to lap flat. The process does require a lot of work. This, and my stones are large, 3x12x1. I have a 12x12 flat granite to lap on with SiC powder, and that is not a lot of area for my bench stones. I have three grits of SiC powder to do the job, but it is not a job that I particularly want to do if I don't have to due to the amount of work involved. Lastly, breaking in an Ark requires hours of honing for no particular reason other than to break in the stone. I have wood chisels to do this work, but here again, hours of work prior to placing a razor on it. After lapping, the stones will require another break in.

The point I was making above is that my 3x12 stones have 36 square inches of stone surface that require breaking in, and my 2x8 only has 18 sq. in. It is possible that I just did not break the big stones in well enough compared to the smaller stone. I have decided that the path I am going to choose to take is to continue breaking in the honing surface of the big stones with wood chisels to see if I can refine it further. While doing this, I will check the opposite surface for flatness. If it is not completely flat, I will attempt to lap it flat. Once flat, I will break in the opposite surface to see if I can get a better result. I have honed multiple razors on my Ark progression, but this is such light pressure compared to the pressures I use when breaking in a stone that razor honing would require years of regular use to break them in, and at that it might not complete the job for a very long time. To any new and aspiring honemeisters, avoid Arks until you have mastered the synthetics. All of the above work could all be for naught as there certainly is variation in natural stones of the same type. Dan's Whetstones removes as much of this variation as any vendor out there, but even his has a significant amount of variation possible. At the end of all of it, I might not have any improvement in performance. But at least I will know where things are.

kingfisher said:
Walt, thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom with us.

Or in this particular case, lack of experience.
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cmh737 said:
Walt, welcome to my honing universe!

I know, right? I can definitely get a more refined edge on a JNat than I can with these Arks.
 
Smattayu said:
Nice read and observations Walt. I wish I could give some advice on the stones, but I still chalk up any natural stone successes I have to dumb luck lol.

Sometimes I wish I had more time to devote to it so that I could really figure them out. It is not rocket science by any stretch of the imagination, but naturals can be a challenge.
 
Well today's shave was a slight improvement in razor feel and performance over yesterday, so I am convinced that my little 2x8 Black is a superior finisher than my 3x12 bench stone in it's current condition.
 
Over the past months, my daily shave has typically been a two pass, with a third on only the problem areas. Then I do a water cleanup. I would classify the shaves in general to average DFS+ to BBS-. I have not been chasing grail worthy shaves in a long time (top 10% ever), and as such, I have not had one in a long time. But this morning I decided to chase it because I am unable to get one unless the razor is functioning in tip top shape. So today was the BRW again after 30 or so laps with maintenance honing yesterday, and I did a full 3 pass shave with a water cleanup. I am smiling from ear to ear as I received the closest shave in a very long time. I would fall short of giving it grail title as I managed a couple small weepers above the lip on the third pass, but cold water was all that was required to stop the seepage.

One other thing that I have removed from my routine is that I no longer use Alum on my face unless there is crimson that the cold water will not reign in. However, I do rub my fingers on Alum every shave in order to get my stretch grip on.

Happy Thursday everyone.
 
Nice Ark observations, Walt. It's a mystery, for sure. But at least you know the smaller one works, and that's good news.

And I don't use alum anymore either, other than to improve grip. My ole mug and alum don't get along well at all.
 
Great Shave Walt!

Thanks for the details and for answering my questions!

So me being the novice still I have another question. As to burnishing a stone, basically that is just smoothing the surface, correct? Wouldn't the same results be accomplished by using a finer grit SIC or diamond paste?
 
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