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McVeyMac's Straight Razor (and other traditional wet shaving) Adventures

Great to hear that the edge wasn't damaged beyond use, Walt. I would be curious to find out why that stone doesn't wet across the entirety of the surface as well...your postulation that it absorbed some of the superfats from the soaps sounds like it could be dead on.
 
The art and science of stones...who’d have thought rocks were so complex! Glad someone takes the time to figure these things out!
 
Great to hear that the edge wasn't damaged beyond use, Walt. I would be curious to find out why that stone doesn't wet across the entirety of the surface as well...your postulation that it absorbed some of the superfats from the soaps sounds like it could be dead on.

There is another explanation that I thought of that might be in play, and that has to do with soap scum. Soap is a fatty acid salt of either sodium or potassium. The chemical bond between the metal (sodium or potassium) and the fatty acid is considered an ionic bond, which essentially means that the metal dissociates in water with a + charge, because it has lost en electron to the oxygen on the fatty acid making it a - charge. It is this essential property that makes soap soluble in water. When the water contains divalent cations, (metals that have the ability to loose two electrons like Calcium and Magnesium) then two fatty acids bind to a single metal divalent cation making the molecular weight of the new molecule insoluble in water. This water insoluble substance with a divalent cation and two fatty acids is commonly referred to as soap scum. The divalent cation comes into play as it is present in our water to varying degrees, and our water here is considered "Hard Water" meaning it is hard to make soap bubbles/lather compared to distilled water. In our area hard water is due predominantly to Calcium ions being present in the water. The way that we deal with this in our shaving brushes is to soak them in acid (vinegar and water), and sometimes wash them with a detergent made with surfactants rather than soap.

It is possible that there is a very thin layer of soap scum on my stone, even though I rinsed the stone thoroughly and wiped it dry with a towel after each and every use. The stone has not changed in appearance at all over this time. The way I would remove the soap scum, if in fact that is what it is, is I would apply a dilute vinegar solution (acid). However, I do not know how acid will interact with the crystalline structures of the stone or with the medium holding them all together. So I will not do this. I might succeed in removing the oddity of the water beading up, but then have to lap and refinish the stone as a result. All of my edges have been improved from both my bench Trans. and Black stones when honed on this small stone, so I can live with the oddity. Over time it should wear off if in fact it is from soap scum.
 
The art and science of stones...who’d have thought rocks were so complex! Glad someone takes the time to figure these things out!

Well we humans will complicate anything Chris, even something as simple as a rock.
 
A little more technical answer than I am used to...but I have to agree with your soap scum hypothesis.
 
My goodness, some of these journals would require me to return to school to follow.
 
A little more technical answer than I am used to...but I have to agree with your soap scum hypothesis.

Better living through chemistry Don.
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I made a wonderful soap used to remove soap scum and crud from brushes and stones. It is 100% coconut oil with a splash of glycerin (for the brushes) and a dash of citric acid (to ensure quick lather and help with scum). I made one batch with 100% KOH and one with 100% NaOH, if you want it soft enough to load into a brush then I recommend using all or mostly KOH. The all NaOH soap is the hardest substance on earth once fully cured. I use it to rub on stains and rub on stones. It is super slick and could be used like Dawn but i have yet to even try that.

I regularly use Simple Green (50/50) on my stones. I find it does a good job of keeping them clean and i can use it whether i have been using oil or just soap and water. I have read tales of people boiling their stones in simple green to remove oil build up, I take this to mean stones can handle quite a lot. Still, if the stone has got the mojo i understand you wouldn't want to do anything to change that.

dkeester observed that honing is as much art as it is science. I would argue its ALL science but how we humans get there is an art. I remember repeatedly asking "what does a bevel look like when it is "done"?" and being frustrated when none of the "experts" could tell me or show me. For the longest time i felt like honing was a skill relegated to a secret community and i wasn't invited. After watching a couple of DrMatts videos it became clear to me, he explained the science behind it and it all clicked. Now that i understand the geometry of it all the major variables are understanding stone characteristics and the techniques that lead to better results.
 
dkeester observed that honing is as much art as it is science. I would argue its ALL science but how we humans get there is an art. I remember repeatedly asking "what does a bevel look like when it is "done"?" and being frustrated when none of the "experts" could tell me or show me. For the longest time i felt like honing was a skill relegated to a secret community and i wasn't invited. After watching a couple of DrMatts videos it became clear to me, he explained the science behind it and it all clicked. Now that i understand the geometry of it all the major variables are understanding stone characteristics and the techniques that lead to better results.

I think you are saying basically the same thing that I am. The relation of steel to stone is all physics and mathematics. The Relation of honing medium to stone, or medium to steel, is all chemistry. But learning best combination of steel, honing solution, and technique for your stones... the correct application of all that science... that is art. You can talk about the chemistry or mathematics or physics of honing all day and probably not be able to produce a shavable edge. Art is putting it all in to practice and producing something beautiful from it... Or maybe I am just being too philosophical.
 
I made a wonderful soap used to remove soap scum and crud from brushes and stones. It is 100% coconut oil with a splash of glycerin (for the brushes) and a dash of citric acid (to ensure quick lather and help with scum). I made one batch with 100% KOH and one with 100% NaOH, if you want it soft enough to load into a brush then I recommend using all or mostly KOH. The all NaOH soap is the hardest substance on earth once fully cured. I use it to rub on stains and rub on stones. It is super slick and could be used like Dawn but i have yet to even try that.

I regularly use Simple Green (50/50) on my stones. I find it does a good job of keeping them clean and i can use it whether i have been using oil or just soap and water. I have read tales of people boiling their stones in simple green to remove oil build up, I take this to mean stones can handle quite a lot. Still, if the stone has got the mojo i understand you wouldn't want to do anything to change that.

dkeester observed that honing is as much art as it is science. I would argue its ALL science but how we humans get there is an art. I remember repeatedly asking "what does a bevel look like when it is "done"?" and being frustrated when none of the "experts" could tell me or show me. For the longest time i felt like honing was a skill relegated to a secret community and i wasn't invited. After watching a couple of DrMatts videos it became clear to me, he explained the science behind it and it all clicked. Now that i understand the geometry of it all the major variables are understanding stone characteristics and the techniques that lead to better results.

I have some simple green, and I know that many use it to de-grease Bay Arks that have years of oil soaked in. Apparently this does not hurt Novaculite. I think I would very much be willing to do a simple green soak to see what happens. I can't imagine that it would change appreciably the properties of the stone wrt finish honing.

I think you are saying basically the same thing that I am. The relation of steel to stone is all physics and mathematics. The Relation of honing medium to stone, or medium to steel, is all chemistry. But learning best combination of steel, honing solution, and technique for your stones... the correct application of all that science... that is art. You can talk about the chemistry or mathematics or physics of honing all day and probably not be able to produce a shavable edge. Art is putting it all in to practice and producing something beautiful from it... Or maybe I am just being too philosophical.

No such thing as being too philosophical Doug!
 
I love reading posts by you and CBL when you both talk chemistry. I don't understand it, but I enjoy it none-the-less.
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BTW, I've also heard that simple green is effective in de-greasing oil stones. You mention Keith Johnson on occasion, and CBL mentions Dr. Matt; I'll add Caleb McCullough to the mix. I came across some of his honing vids, and he seems to have an affinity for honing on Arkansas stones. I seem to recall him mentioning simple green.
 
Great information Walt!

I never now what knowledge I'll pick up in your journal, but it is always informative and useful.
 
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