NO, it is not at all linear or obvious like Guerlain Vetiver. I think the best way to look at a Saponificio Varesino scent is to look at their scent profile as if they are a perfumer, because that's what they are. Unlike a crockpot soaper like me, they don't go and grab a couple EO's or Fragrance oils of the shelf and call it a day. If you read their website they are pretty transparent about the ingredients in their soaps, even listing percentages of many of the ingredients. I am fairly convinced they are just as transparent when it comes to their scents, I believe the pyramid they provide lists the oils they use to create the scent, NOT what they want you to smell. I understand that doesn't help you understand how it smells but at least it helps you understand how they build that pyramid (or at least how I think they build it)
As far as how it smells to me. I don't get a singular vetiver note, at least not like your typical "green" or "dark" or " smokey" like you get from the ones we typically get from the soap makers that label something "vetiver". What I get is MUCH more like the raw vetiver atar I got from India, that thick goey concentrated oil that is extracted and concentrate. I am assuming they used real vetiver oil or atar along with everything else. I think the "desert vetiver" label is a pretty good description, the combination of everything that's in the fragrance along with the vetiver makes is a "Dry" vetiver rather than "green" or "dark" or "smokey". If you are looking for or hoping for a linear vetiver that really pops this one isn't like that to me, it pops but it isn't linear. Its more like Grey Vetiver, vetiver with other stuff...and all together it smells really nice. IT DOES NOT SMELL LIKE GREY VETIVER OR ANY OTHER COLOGNE. The scent as it is described in the pyramid is kind of acurate, it opens with the brighter grapefruit/Bergamot type notes and is quickly blended with the peppery spicy notes. I think the top and middle notes really mix into a blend rather than any single note standing out, all I can say is the top/middle smells/feels VERY classic SV italian and that is pushed with the heavy bottom notes. Again, the bottom notes (as described on the pyramid) dont really come across as individual notes, i definately don't get clove or patchouli by themselves. I think the combined bottom notes are what make the vetiver "dry" to my nose.
Knowing you (KJ) you are probably looking at the scent pyramid and seeing insence in the top notes and Patchouli and Vetiver in the bottom and saying to yourself "that sounds cool". They aren't there the way you imagine. They are part of a symphony, not a rock band.
If you can smell the rose and/or lavender in this I pitty you. I am sure these notes play a supporting background role that adds depth to the scent while playing some "love your skin role: or something. Again. Symphony ..not a rock band.
