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Natterings of a Nasal Barbarian

The first modern SE patent for a hoe style SE was filed in 1847 by William Henson. The Kampfe Bros of Brooklyn, NY filed a similar Hoe Style razor patent in the 1880s, and their razors were available at that time.
I stand corrected Sir. I thought you were referring to the Gem. ;)
 
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SOTD SATURDAY, MAY 23, 2020

Yesterday’s shave with my Brass Gem Jr. Model 1912 was spectacular. Realizing that all safety razors are essentially just blade holders, the fun part of the hobby for me has been mastering the particulars of shave technique peculiar to each blade holder design. William Henson patented the first “hoe design” safety razor in 1847, but it really wasn’t until the 1880s that the Kampfe Bros. of Brooklyn, NY began producing their SE safety razor that later led to the Gem brand. With my Gem razors, since discovering the delightfully smooth and sharp SS Pella blades, shave technique turns out to be consistently similar with these “hoe design” SEs. Yes, there are minor differences in stroke and angle when shaving with an OC versus a SB Gem model, but the design itself just works!

For today’s shave I selected the G-Bar. This particular blade holder is one of the SB variants, and has never failed to deliver a top-of-the-line shave, and this morning was no different. The razor has a certain heft that just feels good in the hand. It sang “scraping toast” lyrics as it mowed through my whiskers right down to the skin line on that first WTG pass. The Nancy Boy shave cream provided a nicely slick, cooling cushion with its 6 drops of M-Bomb added. The 15.8 oz 316L SS Synth by Rearden Razor provided a bit of exercise during the two lather applications. The second ATG pass brought your happy narrator to VBSS land, the objective of every shave, and an A on the cotton ball test. Alum revealed some slight heat on the top of the back of my dome, but otherwise, another spectacular Gem shave. I feel clean, cool, velveteen smooth and refreshed.

RAZOR: Gem G-Bar
BLADE: Pella SS PTFE
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: 316L SS Synthetic by Rearden Razor
CREAM: Nancy Boy Signature
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with Glyce Glycerin soap followed by Thayers Lavender WH and Krampert’s Frostbite AS Splash.
 
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SOTD SUNDAY, MAY 24, 2020

The Gem MMOC (Micromatic Open Comb) was the first mainstream TTO (Twist To Open) production model released to the American public around 1930, as our own very able working razor historian, @jmudrick, pointed out in a Gem thread on another Razor forum. The attached ad is one he dug up indicating that it was already available in 1930. This may indicate the late 1920s (‘28 or ‘29) as the time of introduction by ASR (American Safety Razor corporation). The $1 price in 1930 would be worth approximately 15$ ($14.94) in 2020 dollars.

The one issue that arises with this razor is that there are no drains in the baseplate other than the OC teeth. Thus, it is easily clogged if not rinsed after every few strokes. This, of course, led to the introduction of the Gem MMCP (Micromatic Clog Pruf) a few years later to remedy the problem. The MMCP is essentially the same razor with a safety bar and two good sized lather drains in the baseplate. Unfortunately for the ASR, Gillette introduced their own TTO DE design 3 years after the MMOC, which had no drainage issues and provided two cutting edges reducing the need to rinse as frequently.

Despite its design failings, the MMOC is a great shaver for me! Being a bit OCD helps, as far as frequent rinsing goes. I loaded a fresh Pella SS PTFE blade for today’s shave. The shave cream is again Nancy Boy enhanced with the usual 6 drops of M-Bomb. The lather application tool today was the Jayaruh Custom Rosewood Silvertip Badger Brush #378. Software included Thayers WH, Krampert’s Frostbite AS Splash and A&E Post-Shave Serum. The shave was every bit as good as my Last three shaves with the Eveready Streamline, Brass Gem Model 1912 and My Gem G-Bar shave yesterday. Gems just work for me. There were no clogging issues with the razor thanks to my OCD. The result was another two pass VBSS. Tomorrow the shave will be with my Gem MMCP.

RAZOR: Gem MMOC
BLADE: Pella SS PTFE GEM
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: Jayaruh Custom Rosewood Silvertip Badger #378
CREAM: Nancy Boy Signature w/ 6 drops of M-Bomb added
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with Glyce Glycerin soap followed by Thayers Lavender WH and Krampert’s Frostbite AS Splash. Finished with A&E Post-Shave Serum.
 
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SOTD MONDAY, MAY 25, 2020

As my Gem journey continues, I am consistently reminded by the superb shaves delivered why I enjoy and have collected these razors. The MMOC shave yesterday was superb. Many have described the latter razor as aggressive, but I believe many of the problems people experience with it arise from a failure to rinse frequently enough. There are no lather drains other than the spaces between the teeth on the MMOC. Clogging can be a real problem with to uneven blade exposure leading to a tendency to apply pressure. The result can be nicking. Frequent rinsing avoids the issue.

ASR was clearly aware of the issue as evidenced by the redesign they named the Clog Pruf! Instead of an OC, the revised model, the MMCP, featured a safety bar and good-sized lather drains. See photo. I can’t tell much difference in the shave, but did have another excellent one with my MMCP this morning. The only change between yesterday’s shave and today’s was the brush selected.

For today’s shave I chose my Jayaruh Custom Boar #372. Jim’s brushes have never let me down, and today’s lather production maintained the trend. Nancy Boy Signature shave cream is a pleasure to shave with. As a shaver who enjoys a great deal of variety, I find myself reaching for this spectacular cream every morning. As a confirmed menth head, I do own many menthol soaps from Cryogen to Snake Bite to Obsidian Glacial. None of the latter delivers the great post shave feel as Nancy Boy enhanced with 6 drops of M-Bomb which seems to build with each consecutive shave.

The MMCP was a pleasure to shave with. I’m hand it has the same heft as its predecessor and shaves every bit as well. I loaded a fresh Pella blade and had at it. I find the quality of shave indistinguishable from the MMOC. Two passes (WTG, ATG) reopened the baby’s room and delivered a perfect VBBS! My mug and noggin are velveteen smooth! I feel clean, cool, smooth and ready for Our Memorial Day Zoom with old friends.

RAZOR: Gem Micromatic Clog Pruf (MMCP)
BLADE: Pella SS PTFE Gem
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: Jayaruh Custom Boar #372
CREAM: Nancy Boy Signature
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with Glyce Glycerin soap followed by Thayers Lavender WH and Krampert’s Frostbite AS Splash. Finished with A&E Post-Shave Serum.
 
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SOTD TUESDAY, MAY 26, 2020

My last Gem shave will be with my Featherweight. The razor was introduced in 1953 by the American Safety Razor corporation of Brooklyn, NY. And although 67 yrs old is in surprisingly good condition. I’ve never had a bad shave with this razor. The handle is approximately 80mm and it weigh in at 31.2 grams which is certainly on the lighter end of the spectrum, comparable to the aluminum RazoRock Blackhawk. Now those of you who’ve been reading my posts know that I prefer a heavier razor, but there is something about the Gem Featherweight that just works! It has a certain heft to it that feels good in the hand. Accepted wisdom with th Gems is to ride the cap, but I’ve never done so. I shave at approximately the same angle used with my injectors. And a, more than content with the shaves delivered.

The only software changes For today’s shave are the use of my recently arrived Nancy Boy Signature Scent Cooling Balm and the use of my MrEE Aluminum handled hybrid knot brush. I don’t know what it is about this Nancy Boy shave cream, but I just can’t stop using it. The lathers enhanced with 6 drops of M-Bomb are indescribably awesome. I may be becoming addicted! You owe it toyourself to read Manti59’s “5 4 3 2 1“ challenge on YouTube. He basically describes Nancy Boy as the best shave cream he’s ever used. The shave, asexpected worked out to be a bloodless, two pass (WTG, ATG) VBSS. I feel clean, cool, smooth and refreshed. I apologize for the delay in posting this morning shave, but I was out and about all day with my Triumph Car Club.

RAZOR: Gem Featherweight
BLADE: Pella Gem SS PTFE
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: MrEE Knurled Aluminum Handled Hybrid Knot
CREAM: Nancy Boy Signature
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with Glyce Glycerin soap followed by Thayers Lavender WH and Nancy Boy Cooling Balm.
 
All caught up, nice looking shave and great razors, going to have to pull out the GEMS and STARS one of these days again
 
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SOTD WEDNESDAY, May 27, 2020

I decided to shave with my E Type Injector this morning. I was gifted a G Type some months ago, but have always preferred my E Type’s shave. Software remained the same as yesterday. I think I may be becoming addicted to Nancy Boy Shave Cream. It’s definitely not the scent, but rather the consistently rich, slick glistening lather it produces. The 6 drops of M-Bomb don’t hurt by converting it into the best mentholated lather I have, and I own both soap and AS for Chiseled Face Cryogen, Fine Accoutrements Snake Bite, Stirling Glacial Obsidian and Lemon Chill, and Krampert’s Frostbite.

Back to the shave. I loaded an empty Schick Injector Magazine by hand with 7 Schick B-20 Proline blades which I then used to load the razor! Proline injector blades are great! I’ve used the AC counterparts in my AC razors as well, and they’ve never failed to deliver an excellent shave. The Viking Silvertip Badger generated sufficient lather for 6 passes, but I again only needed two (WTG, ATG) passes to put the baby to bed! Today’s shave easily achieved VBSS status and was so good that I think I’ll repeat it tomorrow with the G Type which I find to be a hair more efficient than my E Type. I feel clean, Velveteen smooth, cool and incredibly refreshed!

RAZOR: Schick E Type Injector
BLADE: Schick B-20 Proline Injector
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: Viking Silvertip Badger
CREAM: Nancy Boy Signature
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with Glyce Glycerin soap followed by Thayers Lavender WH and Nancy Boy Signature Scent Cooling Balm.
 
Jeff’s a glutton for menthol punishment! I can juuuuust barely handle Snake Bite or Osage on a freshly shaven face. It’s almost too much :ROFLMAO:
 
Jeff’s a glutton for menthol punishment! I can juuuuust barely handle Snake Bite or Osage on a freshly shaven face. It’s almost too much :ROFLMAO:
Chris,
I’ve been wet shaving daily since 1963. My skin is more akin to leather at this point. Any menthol with the exception of Cryogen just feels cooling, never any burn anymore, although I do remember those days. Cryogen menthol fumes irritate my eyes.
 
When I was using injectors the Prolines were my favorite.
I make it a practice to shave with every variety of safety razor both DE and SEs of all types. I guess it’s how I compensate for not being able to shave with a shavette or straight razor. (Parkinson’s)
 
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SOTD THURSDAY, MAY 28, 2020

Today’s shave features a newly acquired SS Supply V2 razor. I traded one of my two Paul Revere International Silver Type L injectors for it. It came with three adjustable heads, a plastic injector blade magazine, and a stainless steel razor holder. I quickly discovered the fresh supply blade from the Supply Injector magazine was quite tuggy. I substituted a Schick B-20 Proline Blade. I then swapped out the two dot moderate head for the three dot aggressive after the first few strokes of my shave. I continued with the Nancy Boy Signature shave cream and Cooling Balm. The brush for today’s shave was my trusty Alpha Shaving T-400 Tribute brush with the 24mm hybrid Badger/Boat knot ferrule.

The first few shaves with a new razor are generally part of what most wet shavers refer to as the “dialing in” process. In this case there really wasn’t much “dialing in” required. A friend who owns three versions of this razor stated that it didn’t shave like his other injector razors. That hasn’t been my experience. Shaving with the Supply felt quite similar to a shave with my E, G, or L Type injectors. And this shave went swimmingly well. I’m definitely not a fan of the Supply injector blades that came with the trade. I have thick ‘old man’ whiskers that didn’t do well with the latter blades. After my cold water rinse and lather application it was clear in the first few strokes that the average or two dot head was too mild and was cutting as closely as I like. The three dot “aggressive” head in conjunction with the Proline injector blade were just what the doctor ordered!

The Supply razor shaved beautifully mowing my whiskers right down to the skin line in the first WTG pass. I would equate the shave to that delivered by my R41, only without needing to attend to the shave process as I do with the Muhle razor. The second ATG pass really only consisted of some selected buffing in the usual problem areas. I must confess that I really like this razor. It shaved both mug and noggin effortlessly. It weighs in at approximately 105 grams, and is heavy enough that it feels like one is just sweeping the lather away. I really like this razor. My friend at TSD who enabled this acquisition through his gorgeous photography and rave reviews of his three versions of the razor can know that it’s not three strikes and out. It was a no go for the OneBlade and the Broman, both of which shaved well for him. I was never able to get a decent shave from either of the latter two razors, but the Supply V2 SS is an entirely different story, home run all the way.

Achieving a velveteen BBS with a brand new razor is quite rare for me. I’ll be shaving with this razor for the next few days! I just ordered an alloy version of the razor for my youngest son, Sam, currently recovering from Covid19. He is currently shaving with an E Type and enjoying it. I know he’ll like this razor. What’s even more impressive is that an alum check revealed no heat anywhere. I feel clean, velveteen smooth, cool and refreshed.

RAZOR: Supply V2 SS
BLADE: Schick B-20 Proline Injector
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: Alpha Shaving T-400 Tribute Brush fitted with 24mm Hybrid Knot Ferrule
CREAM: Nancy Boy Signature
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with Glyce Glycerin soap followed by Thayers Lavender WH and Nancy Boy Signature Scent Cooling AS Gel.
 
I make it a practice to shave with every variety of safety razor both DE and SEs of all types. I guess it’s how I compensate for not being able to shave with a shavette or straight razor. (Parkinson’s)
I'm sorry to hear that. I have a Weck Sextoblade that uses replaceable blades, and it also has a slip on guard that goes over the blade. I'd be honored to send it to you if you'd like.
 

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