May 11, 2026 (Mystic May Every Other Day)
• Brush: Semogue – 2000 (Boar)
• Razor: Muhle – R41 (Black)
• Blade: Barbero – Platinum
• Soap: Mystic Water – Brown Windsor
• Aftershave: Lucky Tiger – After Shave and Face Tonic
• Balm: Stirling – Unscented Post Shave Balm
• Fragrance: Mystic Water – Brown Windsor Perfume Oil
TL; DR: A follow up to yesterday's discussion of Strike Gold Soaps's Lewis and Clark scent, I discuss the actual scent that Lewis and Clark used (Brown Windsor) and review Mystic Water's Brown Windsor Shave Soap.
Yesterday, I explored (or ranted about, if you like) the historically anachronistic fragrance choices of Strike Gold Soaps’s after using their Lewis and Clark shave soap. This soap features scent notes of “citrus, cypress, Texas cedarwood, mahogany, wood smoke, and patchouli.” Not things I particularly care for, and I can easily see where I came up with the description of “rain-soaked rotting wood in a desert.” While Strike Gold’s goal was to create a soap that would conjure up the rugged outdoors, their take is kind of odd as these things don’t represent or exist in the terrain that Lewis and Clark (and Sacajawea, for that matter) were traversing.
It occurred to me yesterday evening that I not only was aware of what actual scent Lewis and Clark used, but also had it in my shave soap and fragrance collection. Allow me to present that fragrance to you: Brown Windsor. And, there is only one artisan that makes a shave soap of this scent: Michelle Burns of Mystic Water.
As I have gotten to know Michelle a bit better, I have learned some of the stories that inspired her to become a soapmaker. One was of a particular scent that was popular in the Colonial Era and inspired her to recreate some historical scents: Bayberry. “As a child, at a Revolutionary War museum,” Michelle wrote, “I purchased a ball of bayberry soap and treasured it for years. Somehow the idea of pioneer crafts made an impression on me and I developed a passion for ‘forgotten’ skills. Bayberry is a native American plant that produces a berry with a fragrant, herbal/spicy waxy coating. Boiling the berries, cooling and skimming the liquid provided a wax that was used to scent beeswax candles and soap in the Colonial era…It's hard to describe but it's one of those scents that is evocative of the past and associated with special occasions and holidays.” These experiences no doubt inspired her to make her excellent Bayberry soap (not available as a shave soap, unfortunately) and to recreate a Brown Windsor scented soap.
Brown Windsor is a historical scent from England that was especially popular in Europe during the 1700s and early 1800s. Napoleon, Queen Victoria, Lewis and Clark, and even Winston Churchill used it extensively. As Michelle writes: “Brown Windsor is scented with an intriguing blend of essential oils: herbaceous and floral lavender, sweet and spicy caraway seed oil, the fruity citrus of Bergamot and petitgrain, with warm notes of cinnamon leaf, cardamom and clove.”
Of the few soapmakers in the US who produce Brown Windsor as a bath soap, each used a historical recipe that is the same as Michelle’s blend. The result is a well-rounded, balanced, and complex scent that surprisingly works as well in warm weather as it does in cold. Unlike Florida Water, it is a bit more mature and has greater longevity. There is a greater freshness to it. The clove is not detectable as clove (much the way black pepper in a larger dish gives a warming sensation more so than a flavoring). The petitgrain forms a nice fresh base for the herbs, limited citrus, and spices to become one. Despite being a historical scent, it blends well with today’s scents and does not smell out of place in a modern context.
Michelle creates the essential blend herself and makes a fantastic shave soap, of course. I enjoyed it so much that I even had her make me a perfume oil roll on. At $9.20, these represent the best value in perfumery. She is generous with the oils and I get six or more hours of longevity easily with a single swipe. I can also carry it easily in my pocket if I felt I needed more, but again, I don’t really. As always, I recommend her products (especially Brown Windsor) with the highest enthusiasm. Remember, her sample policy (3 samples for $4 and $5 shipping).
We have some amazing artisans in our community on the cutting edge of scents (and brush or razor making, etc). And, I should say, I do not mean to be disparaging or negative about Strike Gold Soaps. They are creating interesting and good products. But, as a historian, it warms my heart to know that these authentic recipes of the past are being preserved. I did say so much of this hobby was about nostalgia, but I am noticing that the majority of us are really acting like historians in this hobby. We are preserving the past, telling stories, and keeping/updating the past.
Have an awesome day, friends!
View attachment 159006