who has made honing videos?

[jimmie]

I have watched countless videos, the more I learned the more I realized I should not have watched that last video. because that guy is dumber than I am. so I've watched enough and I've done it enough to know what's going on. so if you were going to recommend one video for somebody to learn, now that I know what to look for I would like to see a video of somebody that I know does it right to verify in my head that it works when mine come out and will not cut paper LOL

 

[MilkCrate]

In addition to several respected honers on youtube, there are several members here that have made honing videos.

Are you looking for general info, techniques or strokes? Maybe honing with a specific rock progression or synthetics? Just curious.

 

[Spider]

@BarberDave

 

[BarberDave]

Indeed it does depend as @MilkCrate stated what medium you want to use here is a quick recap of a few who have done videos and the primary method and medium (not inclusive of all possible method and or mediums)

@Luecke3262 - Japanese Nat stones/synths/ and all matter of rocks

@Bill M - convex/ supercurve honing , multi medium

@BarberDave -coticule/ Arkansas (dilucot/ arkucot, Shapton stones

There are many more, just the ones here that have done videos. Look at the video tutorial section or the honing thread for more

Hope that helps

 

[jimmie]

In addition to several respected honers on youtube, there are several members here that have made honing videos.

Are you looking for general info, techniques or strokes? Maybe honing with a specific rock progression or synthetics? Just curious.

all of the above lol. I have two Norton stones and a shepton 12000. I kind of know extra and the basics but I just want to see one done by somebody that's trusted rather than somebody that may have been me LOL I remember seeing some made by people in forums and I still watch and follow a lot of them. I was just wanting to get some links to videos that you guys trust and learn a good technique. the people on here no a lot. and Matt maybe the only videos I need to watch. unless somebody knows a trick that he doesn't? but that's kind of what I was looking for just anything helpful

 

[jimmie]

Indeed it does depend as @MilkCrate stated what medium you want to use here is a quick recap of a few who have done videos and the primary method and medium (not inclusive of all possible method and or mediums)

@Luecke3262 - Japanese Nat stones/synths/ and all matter of rocks

@Bill M - convex/ supercurve honing , multi medium

@BarberDave -coticule/ Arkansas (dilucot/ arkucot, Shapton stones

There are many more, just the ones here that have done videos. Look at the video tutorial section or the honing thread for more

Hope that helps

of course that helps LOL I have seen two of those videos I'm going to watch the last one. but that's what I was thinking Matt's videos are probably about as good as you're going to get if that doesn't work I just don't have the touch LOL I can't seem to get these scissors sharp enough to cut paper dang it

 

[supertrunker]

My advice if you are starting out is to lap your stones flat - all of them. i have a diamond plate that i use and a Norton one they call a flattening stone, but get them flat. Then run your Norton 4/8 in order. It's like stropping in reverse - on stones you lead with the edge, on leather you lead with the spine when stropping. Dr. Matt and Gary Haywood both have a really light honing touch i like, but the more you watch, the more you learn.

Knives will cut paper like that - don't do that with a razor, you'll ruin the edge - test it on some hair. Because that's its job!

T

 

[MilkCrate]

After your stones are lapped flat, it all starts with a solid bevel set (and maybe a Sharpie).

Do you have a loupe to view your edge?

 

[jimmie]

My advice if you are starting out is to lap your stones flat - all of them. i have a diamond plate that i use and a Norton one they call a flattening stone, but get them flat. Then run your Norton 4/8 in order. It's like stropping in reverse - on stones you lead with the edge, on leather you lead with the spine when stropping. Dr. Matt and Gary Haywood both have a really light honing touch i like, but the more you watch, the more you learn.

Knives will cut paper like that - don't do that with a razor, you'll ruin the edge - test it on some hair. Because that's its job!

T

sometimes it sounds too easy to fail. but I have proven that wrong LOL. I pretty much do Matt's technique. it seems to be everything anybody would need. I have no special needs. I've never even used shaving cream LOL. it comes from growing up in the oil field. no time for stuff like that.

needless to say I do not have sensitive skin. I did endure a few injuries though, but not shaving cream related

 

[jimmie]

After your stones are lapped flat, it all starts with a solid bevel set (and maybe a Sharpie).

Do you have a loupe to view your edge?

I think I should have everything I need. I do have a loop and a bigger magnifying glass.

 

[jimmie]

My advice if you are starting out is to lap your stones flat - all of them. i have a diamond plate that i use and a Norton one they call a flattening stone, but get them flat. Then run your Norton 4/8 in order. It's like stropping in reverse - on stones you lead with the edge, on leather you lead with the spine when stropping. Dr. Matt and Gary Haywood both have a really light honing touch i like, but the more you watch, the more you learn.

Knives will cut paper like that - don't do that with a razor, you'll ruin the edge - test it on some hair. Because that's its job!

T

lol, I'm already messing up and I haven't even started lol I've done what would probably amount to honing two razors, they got sharper but they never really got Sharp. I've only practiced on stones that aren't really any good though. probably kitchen knife sharpening stones?

I think I have what I need for the basic honing? I just want to get one Sharp. the more I read, kill the blade. don't ever kill the blade. use pressure. don't ever use pressure LOL it's hard enough for some of us as it is LOL you all seem to have the same answers and the same idea so there's no question as to who I'm going to follow to the watering hole

 

[supertrunker]

FWIW the only time i use any pressure is when i am setting a bevel, because the idea is to aggressively remove metal. After that nope. i don't purposely kill the blade - it's quite possible to achieve that in other ways!

My own learning was helped by having an edge honed by an expert to which i could compare mine. A reference if you like and if you run your thumb on that thing it's so sharp it feels 'sticky' and when i get my edges there i know they will shave.
Part of the problem with this entire subject is there are a million ways people decide when it's sharp - the hanging hair test (but there's no standard hair), putting 3 fingers on the blade, using a packing peanut, treetopping arm hair and so on.

A typical refresh of an edge for me would be to use a Norton 6k, then a Naniwa 12k and then a few strokes on a coticule or black ark, but you can use a pasted strop in place of those. So you probably have all you need. And a decent strop.
How do you know when it's done? i'm looking for the edge to undercut the water - you'll see it ride up over the bevel - and all the way along the edge. You don't move from that stone until it's done else you are wasting your time.

That will give an edge you can shave off, my only ambition when i bought my stones!
Is it the best edge ever? i doubt it, but it'll work and near enough is good enough to begin with.

T

 

[jimmie]

FWIW the only time i use any pressure is when i am setting a bevel, because the idea is to aggressively remove metal. After that nope. i don't purposely kill the blade - it's quite possible to achieve that in other ways!

My own learning was helped by having an edge honed by an expert to which i could compare mine. A reference if you like and if you run your thumb on that thing it's so sharp it feels 'sticky' and when i get my edges there i know they will shave.
Part of the problem with this entire subject is there are a million ways people decide when it's sharp - the hanging hair test (but there's no standard hair), putting 3 fingers on the blade, using a packing peanut, treetopping arm hair and so on.

A typical refresh of an edge for me would be to use a Norton 6k, then a Naniwa 12k and then a few strokes on a coticule or black ark, but you can use a pasted strop in place of those. So you probably have all you need. And a decent strop.
How do you know when it's done? i'm looking for the edge to undercut the water - you'll see it ride up over the bevel - and all the way along the edge. You don't move from that stone until it's done else you are wasting your time.

That will give an edge you can shave off, my only ambition when i bought my stones!
Is it the best edge ever? i doubt it, but it'll work and near enough is good enough to begin with.

T

I think you are wrong about something though, you say there are a million ways. I am sure there is at least a million and one, SMH and the sad part is they are all valid and good eventually I guess I will just pick away and stick with it. I'm pretty sure that's going to be Norton's and shapton, jnats maybe one day. I'm just not sure there's a real need for me

 

[CBLindsay]

sometimes it sounds too easy to fail. but I have proven that wrong LOL. I pretty much do Matt's technique. it seems to be everything anybody would need. I have no special needs. I've never even used shaving cream LOL. it comes from growing up in the oil field. no time for stuff like that.

needless to say I do not have sensitive skin. I did endure a few injuries though, but not shaving cream related

Razors are designed/made to be ‘too easy to fail’. The geometric relationship between the thickness of the spine and the distance between the part of the spine that touches the stone and the razors edge (the bevel) are meant to result in a bevel angle that falls in the right range for shaving. Hand honing pretty much guarantees you won’t get it perfect across the entire length of the edge, BUT there is enough wiggle room in what works that your face will not care.

ALL of this of course requires a flat stone (or lapping paper on flat glass/surface) and that you keep the razor pressed flat against the flat stone. After that it hones itself. I am an aggressive honer, I tend to use more force than I should and definitely more than what is necessary. My stuff turns out fine but typically lacks the polish and extra special keennesses you see in @BarberDave finished stuff. For you, I would recommend focusing on using only enough pressure to keep the entire blade in contact with the stone. That might be a little or a lot depending on your fine motor skills, don’t stress over it just focus on keeping the blade (spine and bevel end) flat against the stone at all times. If you do this all of the different strokes and techniques will only serve to improve upon the results. Also, if you find that you can’t finish the razor using light pressure while also keeping the blade flat consider using a series of spine leading strokes to finish on the stone then strop well.
Oh, and whatever you do to one side do exactly the same to the other. That’s part of ensuring the correct geometry is maintained. ‘Setting the bevel’ could also be called ‘resetting the geometry”.

And one last thing. Remember you are honing the bevel edge, the thinnest part of the whole razor.

*a caveat to the flat stone being the key is when using a convex hone. The convex hone is necessarily and obviously NOT flat. BUT there is a different magic at work here and for it to work you still need to ensure your razor is beheld ‘flat’ to the stone (meaning both the spine and bevel edge are in constant contact with the stone).

 

[jimmie]

Razors are designed/made to be ‘too easy to fail’. The geometric relationship between the thickness of the spine and the distance between the part of the spine that touches the stone and the razors edge (the bevel) are meant to result in a bevel angle that falls in the right range for shaving. Hand honing pretty much guarantees you won’t get it perfect across the entire length of the edge, BUT there is enough wiggle room in what works that your face will not care.

ALL of this of course requires a flat stone (or lapping paper on flat glass/surface) and that you keep the razor pressed flat against the flat stone. After that it hones itself. I am an aggressive honer, I tend to use more force than I should and definitely more than what is necessary. My stuff turns out fine but typically lacks the polish and extra special keennesses you see in @BarberDave finished stuff. For you, I would recommend focusing on using only enough pressure to keep the entire blade in contact with the stone. That might be a little or a lot depending on your fine motor skills, don’t stress over it just focus on keeping the blade (spine and bevel end) flat against the stone at all times. If you do this all of the different strokes and techniques will only serve to improve upon the results. Also, if you find that you can’t finish the razor using light pressure while also keeping the blade flat consider using a series of spine leading strokes to finish on the stone then strop well.
Oh, and whatever you do to one side do exactly the same to the other. That’s part of ensuring the correct geometry is maintained. ‘Setting the bevel’ could also be called ‘resetting the geometry”.

And one last thing. Remember you are honing the bevel edge, the thinnest part of the whole razor.

*a caveat to the flat stone being the key is when using a convex hone. The convex hone is necessarily and obviously NOT flat. BUT there is a different magic at work here and for it to work you still need to ensure your razor is beheld ‘flat’ to the stone (meaning both the spine and bevel edge are in constant contact with the stone).

wow, you guys give some good answers. you said a spine leading stroke, on the stone? I didn't know we could do that LOL this is not fair. after I finally got it figured out strop, Stone, opposite! LOL now I find out I can go both ways on the stone. I'm not sure I understand that but it gives me something to set off on learning LOL keeping the spine and the edge flat I found requires different amounts of pressure. I'm guessing this is where the complication comes in lol, oh my God! I don't know about this. I think I've had some bad blades to work with they've all been warped had some really bad smiles some frowns and some confused looks but holy smoke LOL

I am trying to take it all in and remain calm. that is hard to do when bells are going off in my head and steam is coming out of my ears. the train is pulling out and I'm not ready LOL. I will eventually quit saying thank you because I get it we're here to help each other. but I know everybody has a life and their time is important and a lot of my questions seem trivial, and they are for the most part. but you guys are stellar to humor me, I appreciate your time

 

[supertrunker]

i deliberately didn't muddy the waters with heretical talk of convex hones as i think it's better to at least get an edge one can shave from using the flat ones. A reproducible process.

i don't use that stropping stroke on a stone, spine leading, i think it runs the risk of chipping the edge. That's what a strop's for. But i have seen cutler Murray Carter do so.

There's a lot of freedom to choose the stones you like, how you use them, when it's sharp enough and all those other variables. But it's your face and you'll know what feels sharp and harsh and what feels sharp and smooth.

T

 

[jimmie]

Razors are designed/made to be ‘too easy to fail’. The geometric relationship between the thickness of the spine and the distance between the part of the spine that touches the stone and the razors edge (the bevel) are meant to result in a bevel angle that falls in the right range for shaving. Hand honing pretty much guarantees you won’t get it perfect across the entire length of the edge, BUT there is enough wiggle room in what works that your face will not care.

ALL of this of course requires a flat stone (or lapping paper on flat glass/surface) and that you keep the razor pressed flat against the flat stone. After that it hones itself. I am an aggressive honer, I tend to use more force than I should and definitely more than what is necessary. My stuff turns out fine but typically lacks the polish and extra special keennesses you see in @BarberDave finished stuff. For you, I would recommend focusing on using only enough pressure to keep the entire blade in contact with the stone. That might be a little or a lot depending on your fine motor skills, don’t stress over it just focus on keeping the blade (spine and bevel end) flat against the stone at all times. If you do this all of the different strokes and techniques will only serve to improve upon the results. Also, if you find that you can’t finish the razor using light pressure while also keeping the blade flat consider using a series of spine leading strokes to finish on the stone then strop well.
Oh, and whatever you do to one side do exactly the same to the other. That’s part of ensuring the correct geometry is maintained. ‘Setting the bevel’ could also be called ‘resetting the geometry”.

And one last thing. Remember you are honing the bevel edge, the thinnest part of the whole razor.

*a caveat to the flat stone being the key is when using a convex hone. The convex hone is necessarily and obviously NOT flat. BUT there is a different magic at work here and for it to work you still need to ensure your razor is beheld ‘flat’ to the stone (meaning both the spine and bevel edge are in constant contact with the stone).

you mentioned, all the different strokes. I can understand some of them like spine-leading or edge leading, x strokes, floating egg strokes. that's it for me. what all ones are there?

 

[Longhaultanker]

Ever since I started honing 7.5 years ago I have always been an advocate for using Gold Dollars, then Union Razors, to learn beginning honing. It was either Keith V. Johnson or Drmatt357 who said in their most recent video, there is no substitute for learning how to read feedback, the tactile or audible sensation of the razor on the stone. The only teacher is experience. So use a cheap razor, or razors, and hone away. Use different pressures. Ruin some in the process.

 

[jimmie]

Ever since I started honing 7.5 years ago I have always been an advocate for using Gold Dollars, then Union Razors, to learn beginning honing. It was either Keith V. Johnson or Drmatt357 who said in their most recent video, there is no substitute for learning how to read feedback, the tactile or audible sensation of the razor on the stone. The only teacher is experience. So use a cheap razor, or razors, and hone away. Use different pressures. Ruin some in the process.

I've already accomplished the last part LOL that makes sense for sure. I actually tried honing a cheap razor and it was from Pakistan or something and you couldn't sharpen it if you was expert samurai sword Jedi Master sharpener

 

[jimmie]

I've already accomplished the last part LOL that makes sense for sure. I actually tried honing a cheap razor and it was from Pakistan or something and you couldn't sharpen it if you was expert samurai sword Jedi Master sharpener

I have two unions though maybe more what makes them want to practice on the inexpensive or are they hard or easier than other ones LOL