The Shaving Cadre

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Not quite Music City USA

I was discussing this "Flow" thing with my mother. She hadn't heard of it, which didn't surprise me. What did surprise me was that she did not recognize the state as anything she had ever experienced. I guess I figured everyone had experienced it at least once.

Don't worry, I'm not going to become the guy whose Journal is always about flow. I'm already the shaving guy to my family and friends. They're still not sure what to make of that.

But if it does happen again, which isn't guaranteed, I might make note of it.

If I shave now, I'll regret it. So this is a standalone post.

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Tonight I revisited a soap, because I saw it referred to as, "the best soap base in shaving."

For a purely subjective experience, shaving sure can provoke very objective sounding pronouncements!, and I always like shaving with a soap that has moved someone to declare it The Best.

MacDuffs.

My take on MacDuffs is that it is one of the best of the modern mucosal soaps. I group all the A&E bases starting with Kaizen, B&M Soft Heart, GD... These are similar to me because while I'm loading from the puck, the paste is very mucosal. It forms tendrils. Lots of water to add from that point, but mucosal soaps are as slick as any soap. I like that style, and others. But MacDuffs is as good as any in this style. It also has lots of exotic sounding ingredients. "Grassfed Tallow" doesn't really tell me much, but it sounds pretty cool.


I was going to go get rid of all my MacDuffs except Almond Biscotti. Almond and coffee. But tonight Winter Cabin jumped from the PIF shoe hanger to the rotation shoe hanger.

I enjoyed this soap-focused shave. I'm not acquiring new soaps, so after a while, the current month's best base ever will be something I won't have, so these soap eval shaves are living on borrowed time!

My take, it's a great soap, like most of them. The scent of Winter Cabin is great, and doesn't challenge my feeble nose with things like Mousse de Saxe that make my nose feel out of the loop, which it most certainly is.

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In the tradition of tradition, tonight I smell like George Washington, according to the company selling me the scent, Caswell-Massey.

Happiness is the sense of smoothness and precision one gets when screwing a Christopher Bradley razor together. It's unique among razors I've used, and a superior experience, imo.

And Lisa's Natural Herbal Creations was way ahead of the hype machine on Emu Oil. I can see the benefits for emus.
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At the 1/4 pile of the baseball season, my beloved Orioles are playing very entertaining baseball.

Today's Shave:

Razor: Blackland Vector
Blade: Feather Artist Club Pro Guard
Brush: Simpson Berkeley 46 B
Pre-Shave: Proraso Red
Lather: Pannacrema Nuavia Verde
Aftershave: Pitralon (Swiss) After-Shave
Additional Care:
Osma Tradition Alum Block

I have two titanium razors, and both required some real thinking before I bit the bullet. I liked everything about the Timeless Stainless Steel razor except it was too heavy for me. So getting that form factor with less mass sounded like a great idea, which experience bore out.

The Henson, on the other hand, was too light in Aluminum. Titanium added just the right amount, and the side benefit of a little more aggression.

But the Steel Vector feels just right to me. It's a pretty wispy, sleek, minimalistic razor as it is, and the steel gives it the right heft. I'm not really tempted to try a Vector in titanium. I think it would feel too light.

Nuavia Verde, loaded in my Berkeley. Perfect.

Swiss Pitralon. I like it, but don't use it often, as it is really hard to find, for what it is. I seek new sources of Musgo Real Lime Glyce soap. I don't need more Swiss Pitralon.
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Flow is an interesting term. Can't say I have ever experienced that in regards to shaving. Shaving seems to me an autopilot kind of thing. It just happens without much thought. If I had to think of a time I might have experienced flow, it would be when I was rappelling down a rock face in my college years.

MacDuffs.
Never heard of that soap before. I'll have to look them up.
"the best soap base in shaving."
For me that would be CBL.
modern mucosal soaps.
Mucosal? That's a new term. Is this a term from other forums? never heard of a soap being called mucosal. Doesn't sound flattering, lol.
It forms tendrils.
Tendrils, lol. I haven't heard that word used in reference to a soap since people used to use it to describe Mystic Water. Gummy Tendrils is what they said about that soap. Always sounded odd to me.
 
Flow is an interesting term. Can't say I have ever experienced that in regards to shaving. Shaving seems to me an autopilot kind of thing. It just happens without much thought. If I had to think of a time I might have experienced flow, it would be when I was rappelling down a rock face in my college years.


Never heard of that soap before. I'll have to look them up.

For me that would be CBL.

Mucosal? That's a new term. Is this a term from other forums? never heard of a soap being called mucosal. Doesn't sound flattering, lol.

Tendrils, lol. I haven't heard that word used in reference to a soap since people used to use it to describe Mystic Water. Gummy Tendrils is what they said about that soap. Always sounded odd to me.
Gummy tendril would be a reasonable description of what I'm seeing on the puck as I'm loading the brush. It's something I never saw before a few years ago, but have seen regularly over the past 4-5 years. Kaizen and it's descendants do it, B&M bases do it. Grooming Dept soaps do it. It's quite possible that this tendril thing is a combination of the base, and my method of making lather, which isn't anything special, but it's something I do with my eyes rather than timing things. I describe it as mucosal because that's how it acts. It's not a criticism. Mucous is pretty darned slick.

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Oh, so it’s slickness related. That’s not what I was thinking.
Yep, slickness specifically. Mucous is slick and protective. It's a different approach to slickness. That's why I can't really declare a base the best. I like different things about different bases. My "if I could only have one" soap is MWF, but I greatly prefer having more than one.

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Today's shave:

Razor: Carbon Cx-316L
Blade: Personna Platinum Israeli Red
Brush: Simpson Berkeley 46 B
Lather: Saponificio Varesino Opuntia
Aftershave: Saponificio Varesino Opuntia
Additional Care:
Quinn's Pink Grapefruit and Orange Rind Witch Hazel Toner
Osma Tradition Alum Block

The understandably quizzical reaction to my characterization of some soaps as mucosal makes me hesitate to try and characterize SV Opuntia. I can't describe scents really - the word that comes to mind as I think of Opuntia is, angular. Desert Vetiver is angular too. In fact, Vetiver is a scent that provokes the word angular for me. This is why I don't usually describe scents. I checked the SV website, and their description is the usual three-act play of unfolding and revelation I'm generally not privy to.

SV is like Duke Ellington. There is so much there, all so tasteful, I don't try and analyze it. It's beyond me. I just try and enjoy the whole half hour.

Which is exactly what I did tonight.
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Today's Shave, May 20, 2023

Razor: Merkur Futur
Blade: Astra Superior Platinum
Brush: Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements Starcraft
Lather: Barrister and Mann Nordost
Aftershave: Barrister and Mann Nordost
Additional Care:
Humphreys Maravilla
Osma Tradition Alum Block

Whenever I shave with the Futur, I'm reminded of Gort, the killer robot from The Day The Earth Stood Still. I suspect a common design heritage.

In honor of a razor that is futuristic, I went with the PAA Starcraft.

Nordost is my favorite orange scent, but Stirling Satsuma is really great too. Satsumo by First Canadian Shave is very nice as well. Sigh. I like most soaps.

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Today's shave:

Razor: Paradigm Diamondback
Blade: Gillette Nacet Stainless
Brush: Simpson Persian Jar PJ2 Manchurian
Lather: Oaken Labs Sanctum
Aftershave: Oaken Labs Sanctum
Additional Care:
Humphreys Maravilla
Osma Tradition Alum Block

I saw the announcement that there will be a new Paradigm razor, a sort of matte stainless steel thing, made in China, at around $120. It has nothing of the art deco/byzantine patterns on the handle that were so distinctive of the brand.

So I whipped out the Diamondback, because it's still my favorite razor.

Oaken Labs soap does just fine. It is, as far as I know, my only Indonesian shaving product. They claim to be perfumers primarily, and the only realistic note listed (blank paper?) is sandalwood. It does smell woody, vaguely, but once or twice during the shave, out of the cloud of scent popped... ashtray. Now, it was a very short burst, but it was still disconcerting. I won't go so far as to say this soap smells like an ashtray, or that that might not be right up someone else's alley, but it doesn't bode well for this soap staying around. And the splash is alcohol-free (deduct one star), so I can ship it along with the soap when I find it's new owner.

The smaller Persian Jar works like the Berkeley on a small radius tub, but with my favorite handle shape.
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Today's shave, May 22, 2023


Razor: Above The Tie Windsor SSRH w/Atlas handle
Blade: Gillette Nacet Stainless
Brush: Simpson Keyhole KH4 Best Badger
Lather: Barrister and Mann Fougere Angelique
Aftershave: Pinaud Clubman
Additional Care:
Humphreys Maravilla
Osma Tradition Alum Block

The Windsor SSRH is a terrific razor that I'm glad I bought. An ATT razor was a bucket list item for me back when they were almost the only game in town. At least for a stainless made in America razor.

Fougére Angelique is a terrific smelling soap, with the currently in vogue greasiness. It's plenty slick, I just don't like a soap that leaves oil on my face. That's not what I want from it. I'll add my own emmolients. But it sure smells nice.

And Clubman has accompanied me my whole life.
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Today's shave:

Razor: Karve Christopher Bradley Stainless Steel D Plate, 4" Argyle Handle
Blade: Astra Superior Platinum
Brush: Simpson Milk Churn Best Badger
Lather: Barrister and Mann Passiflora
Aftershave: Barrister and Mann Passiflora
Additional Care:
Humphreys Maravilla
Osma Tradition Alum Block

This is not the Passiflora of some controversy and an instance of the madness of crowds, nope. This is the rerelease that was easy to get. Of course, as is often claimed about such things, the new one is different and not as good, according to some. This one is just great as far as I'm concerned. This scent and Nordost are examples of Barrister and Mann varieties that I love. Reserve Spice and Lavender are terrific too. But there are a couple which incorporate Mousse de Saxe. I don't know what that is composed of, but it is distinctive and unpleasant to me. And then there's The Full Measure of Man, which smells like Mrs. Butterworth syrup. So for me, B&M is really hit or miss. Mostly hit, but the misses are wide.

The Milk Churn is my favorite brush. If I can only keep one, it's the Milk Churn. I have two family artifacts from my great great grandparents. One is a straight razor, which I hope someday to get restored, if possible. The other is my great great grandmother's milk churn. She was long gone by the time I came along, but my mother, now 80, remembers watching the churn in use when she was a small child. The churn sat in my grandmother's kitchen my whole life, and it now resides here. When I saw the Simpson Milk Churn brush, it was an instant decision. It looks just like my churn. I don't know what diameter knot I prefer, or which loft is my favorite. I like the differences and variety of hair more than any particular grade. But that milk churn handle gives me joy to use.

The Christopher Bradley is pretty much flawless. Assembling it is a pleasure because the tolerances are so tight and the threads are so smooth. Three of my four favorite razors are Canadian. My favorite TV show, SCTV, was Canadian. And milk in a bag is brilliant. I salute my neighbors to the North.
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Ive been asking the AI Chatbot in the Bing app shaving questions, since it's read everything on the subject available on the internet. It's answers are nothing more that the output of a mathematical function seeded with the words of the question. But the function is so unimaginably complex, with trillions of terms, that what it produces looks almost exactly like it knows what it is talking about. It has a comprehensive "understanding" of the various arguments for and against using Arko. It is not, however, perfect. It misrepresented a specific method of lathering with the confidence of making factual statements, when it was clearly wrong.

It's fun to play with, and it does provide links to references, but I wouldn't rely on it for anything important. Yet.

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It has nothing of the art deco/byzantine patterns on the handle that were so distinctive of the brand.

So I whipped out the Diamondback, because it's still my favorite razor.
I've always been curious about the Diamondback, because I do love that handle. Would you call that a mild or an aggressive razor?
 
The Milk Churn is my favorite brush. If I can only keep one, it's the Milk Churn. I have two family artifacts from my great great grandparents. One is a straight razor, which I hope someday to get restored, if possible. The other is my great great grandmother's milk churn. She was long gone by the time I came along, but my mother, now 80, remembers watching the churn in use when she was a small child. The churn sat in my grandmother's kitchen my whole life, and it now resides here. When I saw the Simpson Milk Churn brush, it was an instant decision. It looks just like my churn. I don't know what diameter knot I prefer, or which loft is my favorite. I like the differences and variety of hair more than any particular grade. But that milk churn handle gives me joy to use.
Very cool family heirlooms! The milk churn brush is a funny looking one to me…but I can easily see why someone like yourself would take one up with a story like that!
 
I've always been curious about the Diamondback, because I do love that handle. Would you call that a mild or an aggressive razor?
I would call it mild. Not AS-D2 mild. Not Tech mild. It's comfortable, but it doesn't leave me needing buffing on my neck like I do with those razors and the 34c. It is nowhere near as blade feely as the Blackbird. It's a lot like the 3ONE6 but heavier. I shaved with it daily for a long time and loved it.

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Very cool family heirlooms! The milk churn brush is a funny looking one to me…but I can easily see why someone like yourself would take one up with a story like that!
Brushes are the area of this hobby where I sort of arbitrarily limited my focus to Simpson brushes because I like the look. The Milk Churn is a funny looking brush, and it's not the most ergonomic handle, but yeah, it's right up my strange little alley.

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A shaving acquaintance just acquired a Paradigm Diamondback 2020, which is my favorite razor, so to celebrate, I pulled it out along with what looks more like a Sunday shave than a Wednesday shave.
Razor: Paradigm Diamondback
Blade: Personna Platinum Israeli Red
Brush: Simpson Chubby 3 Manchurian (Faux Sapphire)
Lather: Martin de Candre Agrumes
Aftershave: Floid Black
Additional Care:
Humphreys Maravilla
Osma Tradition Alum Block
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