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SOTD SUNDAY MORNING, DECEMBER 12, 2021
Well, I acquired my first safety razor in almost a year and a half. It is an immaculate NOS 1911 Durham Duplex safety razor in the original Bakelite case which I happened across in my search for a stropping attachment for my folding handled version. The price was right, and it uses the same head as the folding handle version, although the blade attachment process differs. The UK Ever Ready Hair Trimmer blades fit perfectly.
I must admit that I really like the safety razor version for my dome shave even more than the folding handle version. The head is much wider than any of my other safety razors, and provides a very wide cut, that it takes only half as many ATG strokes to cover the same shave real estate on the flatter parts of the noggin. The shave was quite close, but not as close a my Barbasol Floating Head or Eclipse Red Ring, the two most efficient blade-holding shavers in my den.
But the belle of the ball was this amazing Smith Bros. of Boston rescaled blue steel 11/16 blade. According to the “Roadshow Collectibles Straight Razor Mfrs Directory”, Smith Brothers was actively importing blades and scaling and reselling them between 1860 and 1910. The original insect eaten horn scales would place this razor earlier in the manufacture. There was no evidence of gun bluing anywhere on the blade.
The extreme hardness of the blade reminded me of some of the Swedish steel I’ve honed. Given Boston’s role as a port city, along with the fact that trading with Japan had begun about the same time as Smith Brothers started in business, I’m going to go out on a limb and hypothesize that the blade is Japanese blue steel or ‘aogami’ which would have been a key export of the newly opened Japanese export market. It is a great edge holding steel alloyed with tungsten, vanadium and chromium.
Whether it is or not, the edge on this straight razor is amazingly sharp. Honing a razor can build up an accumulating burr, which if not removed will contribute to a perceived ‘harsh’ albeit sharp edge. Such an edge will pass the venerable HHT, but the resulting shave will be anything but pleasant. Howard Schlecter, a honemeister from the Boston area teaches his honing students to deburr by running the blade gently along the edge of the finishing stone on each side of the blade edge as part of the finishing process which, of course, seems counter intuitive.
However, 5 to 7 subsequent strokes on the finisher very quickly restore a buttery smooth quite sharp edge, which is then easily maintained well into the future with a graduated pasted strop regimen. Schlecter’s constroption has been just the ticket for me for maintaining all my straight razors. My two and a half pass mug shave this morning reinforced that this approach is just the ticket for me to achieve the lovely velveteen mug shaves with the buttery smooth edges that I enjoy so much!
RAZOR: Smith Bros. of Boston 11/16 (Mug), Durham Duplex Safety Razor (Dome)
BLADE: Ever Ready Hair Trimmer (Dome)
PREP: Cold water rinse followed by a heavy scrub with Argan Oil
BRUSH: Omega Pro48 Boar
SOAP: Mitchell’s Wool Fat
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with brush squeezings followed by a rinse with Humphreys Lilac WH. Finished with Osage Rub AS Splash.