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Your First Straight Razor

Luecke3262

“I am the Grail Razor Hunter”
Hobbyist
Many men enjoy and even love their safety razors, but some choose to elevate their shaving experience by pursuing the dedicated—and somewhat daunting—art of straight razor shaving. Often, a man will search Google for questions like, "What's the best straight razor?" or "What's a good razor to start with?" These searches can lead down rabbit holes. You'll find a dizzying array of razors, from a $2,000 artisan Damascus steel blade to the ubiquitous $5.92 Gold Dollar. Yes, it can be overwhelming at first, but don’t let that deter you from exploring straight razors, especially when considering a very expensive blade as your first. Without experience or an understanding of your preferences, an expensive razor can lead to struggles. After all, there’s no need to own a Rolex if you can’t tell time. Many people still buy the Rolex, but it doesn’t make them expert timekeepers or authorities on horology. Similarly, a measured approach to choosing your first straight razor is wise, especially given the wide price range.

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Many people find that a $50–$100 vintage or restored straight razor is the perfect starter option. Most vintage razors feature fantastic hardened steel that holds up through many shaves before needing maintenance. If you choose a vintage razor honed by a reputable professional, you’re likely to enjoy straight razor shaving from the start! Alternatively, you could opt for a professionally honed Gold Dollar, which will shave adequately for a time and can be maintained with a strop dressed with sharpening compound. However, you may become disappointed and disillusioned when the razor starts to tug or pull on your whiskers after a few shaves. I’m not trying to dissuade you from starting with a Gold Dollar—it has introduced many men to straight razors successfully. However, for just a few dollars more, a vintage blade with higher-quality steel can provide a more consistent learning experience.

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What about new razors? These are an excellent choice! Renowned brands like Böker, Thiers-Issard, Dovo, and various custom shops offer fantastic options. I won’t discourage you from exploring them, but as a new straight razor shaver, you may not yet know what you prefer in a razor. Straight razors come in various grinds (blade thicknesses), from wedge (thick) to extra full hollow (super thin) and everything in between. They also vary in width, from 3/8 inch to 8/8 inch or more (this is how blade width is measured in straight razors). Without experience, it’s hard to know where to start. If you invest all your money in a $500+ custom 9/8 fire dragon blade from Joe Bob’s Customs, you may struggle from the outset. My suggestion for a new razor is to choose something in the mid-to-low price range. Around $120 should get you a fine starter razor. A half-hollow to full-hollow grind, 5/8 to 6/8 in width, with a round point is a great place to begin. Other considerations, like the color of the scales (handle), gold inlay, or toe point (round, spike, Spanish, etc.), can come later. The most important factor is selecting a razor with quality steel and a fine shaving edge, allowing you to get comfortable with the shaving process until it becomes routine and you discover your preferences.

Many of us on the forum would be happy to dive into the details ad nauseam, but what matters most is that the razor you choose shaves well. Feel free to reach out through this thread or start your own—we’d be glad to help!

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