i wanted to give Vanyulay another go over the weekend, but just got around to trying a different scent/ (and different base?) as well. I just don't get the site and descriptions.
Today i used hermes, it's a nice scent, i can't say overwhelming and i kind of get a feel of TdH, but it's faint and i guess it's kind of there. I think the comparison description oversells the scent. However, it's not the only artisan to have this issue. I was able to lather it without issue and it feels nice. I enjoyed it during the shave.
what follows is slightly interesting questions, that i probably shouldn't bother with asking, but here it is anyway
Hermes scent
(A very complex scent based on alchemy of combined woods. With high notes of vivacity of pepper and fresh spices will get your senses dancing. With the bitterness of grapefruit blended with orange will round out this deep fragrance.Compared to Terre d’Hermes). "formula" Tallow & Emu oil.
Made with Stearic Acid, Coconut Fatty Acid, Palm Stearic, Castor, Glycerin, Potassium& Sodium Hydroxide, Aloe Vera, Coconut-Tallow-Lanolin-Babassu-Manteca-Argan-Emu Oils- Shea & Kokum-Butters, Sodium Lactate, Calendula, Extracts, Poly Quats, Allantoin, Silica, Bentonite & Kaolin Clay, and Fragrance.
Envy scent
- This sleek cologne type fragrance, masculine, oriental, woody scent became an instant classic with notes of Opoponax, Patchouli, Amber, Musk, Cedarwood, Cardamom, Anise, Ginger, Nutmeg, Pimento. formula "Tallow"
Made with Stearic Acid, Aloe Vera, Coconut Fatty Acid, Glycerin, Palm Stearic, Potassium Hydroxide, Coconut-Emu-Castor-Lanolin-Tallow-Olive-Argan-Oils, Cocoa & Kokum Butter, Calendula, Extracts, Poly Quats, Sodium Lactate, Allantoin, Silica, Liquid Silk, Bentonite Clay, Essential Oil, and Fragrance.
I am not sure why Van Yulay calls out the Tallow & Emu oil in Hermes, but just the Tallow in Envy. Not that I am trying to do any deep dive or sleuthing to uncover anything, but the labels and descriptions are confusing. for example:
Hermes Shaving Soap Contents which is labeled as
Tallow & Emu Oil has this description
- Tallow – has been used as an effective skincare ingredient for centuries! As your skin need all vitamins to replenish the daily lives, tallow has Vitamin A, D, E and K, as well as Omega – fatty acids.
- Emu Oil – contains high levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids, therefore it is able to easily penetrate the skin’s barriers for deep moisturization. When compared to other types of oil, emu oil had 2-4 times greater penetration of the skin. These effects show that emu oil is able to moisturize and rejuvenate the skin extremely effectively.
- Silk Amino Acids – This silk forms a natural layer over the skin, keeping moisture locked in and harsh conditions out, leaving skin protected and well-nourished.
- Babassu Oil is an antioxidant and will help destroy the free radicals that cause premature aging and cancer. The oil is naturally anti-inflammatory and is often used to treat skin conditions such as eczema.
- Coconut Fatty Acid – excellent lathering and conditioning when used in shave soap.
- Bentonite Clay – Gives an extra creaminess and silkiness to the shave soap. Generally, white clay’s natural absorbing, detoxifying and exfoliating properties makes it an indispensable ingredient in shaving products.
- Silk Amino Acid is a unique silk peptide and one of the best at reducing fine lines and other signs of aging. Aside from the amazing texture of silk extracts, silk amino acids contain properties which allow it to rejuvenate skin tone, reduce wrinkles and hydrate your skin tissues to protect from free radical
Envy Shaving Soap Contents (which is described as
Tallow)
- ·Cocoa Butter – is a rich and creamy natural moisturizer. As mentioned above, cocoa butter is a fat, but it is a stable fat, but will “melt” when applied to your skin. This means that natural cocoa butter simply soak into your skin for easy absorption (it’s like your skin drinks it). When cocoa butter “melts” into your skin, it is not only incredibly moisturizing, but also provides that nice barrier needed for protection. Cocoa butter has an unusually high amount of antioxidants, which means that it helps grab up free radicals that could otherwise inflict damage in your skin. So having these properties in shave soap makes this shave soap luxurious.
- Argan – when used in shave soap, Argan oil’s nutrient-rich composition—including vitamin E and an omega-6 fatty acid called linoleic acid that has anti-inflammatory properties makes it healthy for the skin.
- Tallow Oil – is considered to be a superior emollient that is beneficial for either dry or oily complexions. It gently moisturizes the skin without leaving an oily sheen.
But the ingredients of Envy say "Coconut-
Emu-Castor-Lanolin-
Tallow-Olive-Argan-Oils, Cocoa & Kokum Butter" and
the ingredients of Hermes say "Coconut-
Tallow-Lanolin-Babassu-Manteca-Argan-
Emu Oils- Shea & Kokum-Butters"
i don't know if ingredient order at this level plays a big role, but Emu is second in Envy "oils", which is the "Tallow" Formula and last in Hermes oils which is called the "Tallow & Emu Oil" in it's marketing.. huh.. strange... i don't think i am gonna solve any cold case mysteries but it was odd to see... and Tallow in Envy comes after Emu.. I am sure there is a valid, simple reason that could or could not be substantial... i feel like i am missing discussing something important in regards to tallow, stearic acid, the hydroxides and saponification, but i honestly don't remember.. and i am not a soaper. (i do soap my legs in the shower though
) and why nothing about argan or babassu thats ID'd in other formula titles?
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Regardless of labeling confusion for me, both soaps seemed to do the job well and were not offensive, both very pleasant.
I bought enough to keep me lathering Van Yulays soap for a couple months, only one scent/base iirc was slightly more expensive at $16.99 and i don't really understand why, nothing in the descriptions stand out as common things re: FOs, EOs, etc.. i thought it might be something related to oud oils, but some were that price w/o that oil, some had meadow foam oil, some had both some didn't.. maybe that's all there is to it.
interestingly, as i was perusing their knots selection, i noticed they had 39mm knots ( i don't see a lot of those or sale) and these mixed knots "Van Yulay’s well known Hercules knot is one of the best on the market. Made as a super density knot with the finest Silver-Tip Badger hair and Synthetic. The best of both worlds." I had never seen a mixed knot like that before. clearly i am not in the know, if these are "well known". but that wouldn't be a first.
Also tried the effin fabulous menthol version of the ASL, It was nice.. i enjoyed it, nice leather scent after a couple minutes.
back to the question " would i buy from them again".. i don't see why not... definitely not "no".
i haven't had a soap or ASL that really knocks my socks off, i feel like everyone has pretty much gotten close to doing soap and ASLs well enough.
. for me ADPs packaging reigns supreme and is priced accordingly. I dont know how much ROI a small soap shop gets in label design but its clear wetshavers love to look at, display and publish good looking on SM. And there is art for everyone, clearly the artwork at thomas kinkade stores, warhol, and klimt, etc proves that along with cbl, grooming dept, arianna & evans, stirling, ethos, mama bear, van Yulay, noble otter, etc..
tbh, i dont know why but soap of the gods reference made me think of greek & norse gods, i even had mortal kombat characters like scorpion, sun zero, or raiden on the brain not the muslim, judeo-christian , shinto, buddhist, tao, hindu, etc gods. too much marvel avengers recently on tv and stirling glacial electric sheep image in an open tab in my life recently i guess. I dont know what to make of that other than i must miss playing og mortal kombat on the genesis. seeega.
