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Question

John Paul

Shave Member

John

Today at 9:13 PM
I’m Italian and I have a pretty heavy beard, I have a question. After using the Merkur34C for many years, I switched to the 38C. I want to close shave, and was advised I Should go with an adjustable, so I decided to try the progress and the futur.. Adjustables seem to knock the beard off quicker,and easier, but I don’t seem to get a closer shave, or one that lasts longer. I just wondered if you guys had luck with the adjustables, and prefer them over the straight bar..I’m not interested in trying straight razors, I really do like the feeling of a DE shave. BTW, I’m on my second week using SV 70 th anniversary,And it’s spectacular. I never thought I’d spend $51 on shaving soap, but it’s really that good..
I plan on trying the Cubebe next..Dave, You mentioned before he might be able to get me a sample?

Hope all is well, big snowstorm coming Friday here in Michigan
 
The Cap and Comb of the 34C and 38C are identical, the only difference is in the length, weight and balance of the handle. But I wouldn't expect them to shave much differently. I used the 34C for years. It is a fairly mild razor. The benefit of an adjustable is you get to try various level of agressiveness, but you are still locked into the same geometry. Each razor is different, and the geometry will vary from razor to razor. So unfortunately, if one isn't giving you the shave you wanted, you may need to try another, and another, and another until you find what works the way you want it to. My favorite Adjustable is the Gillette Fatboy (a vintage razor). I did try the Progress, and I did not like it. I do, however, like the MERgress, which is a Progress with a few modifications made to it. Not sure why it's that much different, but it is. I hated the Futur when I tried it, way too aggressive for my face.

I personally do not prefer adjustables to traditional DEs. When I use an adjustable, I get it dialed in to the level I prefer, and I leave it there, never to be adjusted again. I'd actually just prefer to use a regular DE that is suited to me.

The thing I'm keying in on is that you said your beard comes off quicker with a more aggressive setting (presumably) in the adjustable than the mild 34C head, which makes sense.... but you're not getting a closer shave. That could be the razor's geometry, but my gut is telling me that maybe you need to explore different blades. Each blade will shave differently as well. Each has their own grind, sharpness, and geometry. With a heavier beard you may need a sharper blade. I'd recommend trying a Feather blade, which are among the sharpest.

SV is a great soap with great scents, but there are plenty of less expensive soaps out there that work just as well. The good news is that SV soaps last forever, so they end up being economical in the long run.
My personal favorite is CBL Soap, which is another great artisan vendor of the TSC.
 
I replied to you in the other thread you posted this in.
 
After a 34C, which is a good razor for shaving my head once a week, even using a Feather blade would take 2 passes - i went to a Muhle R41.
That's an aggressive beast and any blade in that bad boy will shave you fast.
For my face i like to use the ultimate adjustable, which is a straight razor.

T
 
I feel like I have pretty tough whiskers…but who knows.

All things being equal, I’ve not found an adjustable to give me a better shave than a non adjustable so far. I’ve only tried/have the Gillette adjustables mind you and seem to be among the fortunate number that get a decent/great shave from most razors once I give them some time and use.
 
There is one acceptable setting on an adjustable razor and that is wide open! 'Shaving with Fuzzy.'

'i use 5 on the first pass, 3 on the next and 1 at the end' - get out of here!

T
 
The Cap and Comb of the 34C and 38C are identical, the only difference is in the length, weight and balance of the handle. But I wouldn't expect them to shave much differently. I used the 34C for years. It is a fairly mild razor. The benefit of an adjustable is you get to try various level of agressiveness, but you are still locked into the same geometry. Each razor is different, and the geometry will vary from razor to razor. So unfortunately, if one isn't giving you the shave you wanted, you may need to try another, and another, and another until you find what works the way you want it to. My favorite Adjustable is the Gillette Fatboy (a vintage razor). I did try the Progress, and I did not like it. I do, however, like the MERgress, which is a Progress with a few modifications made to it. Not sure why it's that much different, but it is. I hated the Futur when I tried it, way too aggressive for my face.

I personally do not prefer adjustables to traditional DEs. When I use an adjustable, I get it dialed in to the level I prefer, and I leave it there, never to be adjusted again. I'd actually just prefer to use a regular DE that is suited to me.

The thing I'm keying in on is that you said your beard comes off quicker with a more aggressive setting (presumably) in the adjustable than the mild 34C head, which makes sense.... but you're not getting a closer shave. That could be the razor's geometry, but my gut is telling me that maybe you need to explore different blades. Each blade will shave differently as well. Each has their own grind, sharpness, and geometry. With a heavier beard you may need a sharper blade. I'd recommend trying a Feather blade, which are among the sharpest.

SV is a great soap with great scents, but there are plenty of less expensive soaps out there that work just as well. The good news is that SV soaps last forever, so they end up being economical in the long run.
My personal favorite is CBL Soap, which is another great artisan vendor of the TSC.
The Cap and Comb of the 34C and 38C are identical, the only difference is in the length, weight and balance of the handle. But I wouldn't expect them to shave much differently. I used the 34C for years. It is a fairly mild razor. The benefit of an adjustable is you get to try various level of agressiveness, but you are still locked into the same geometry. Each razor is different, and the geometry will vary from razor to razor. So unfortunately, if one isn't giving you the shave you wanted, you may need to try another, and another, and another until you find what works the way you want it to. My favorite Adjustable is the Gillette Fatboy (a vintage razor). I did try the Progress, and I did not like it. I do, however, like the MERgress, which is a Progress with a few modifications made to it. Not sure why it's that much different, but it is. I hated the Futur when I tried it, way too aggressive for my face.

I personally do not prefer adjustables to traditional DEs. When I use an adjustable, I get it dialed in to the level I prefer, and I leave it there, never to be adjusted again. I'd actually just prefer to use a regular DE that is suited to me.

The thing I'm keying in on is that you said your beard comes off quicker with a more aggressive setting (presumably) in the adjustable than the mild 34C head, which makes sense.... but you're not getting a closer shave. That could be the razor's geometry, but my gut is telling me that maybe you need to explore different blades. Each blade will shave differently as well. Each has their own grind, sharpness, and geometry. With a heavier beard you may need a sharper blade. I'd recommend trying a Feather blade, which are among the sharpest.

SV is a great soap with great scents, but there are plenty of less expensive soaps out there that work just as well. The good news is that SV soaps last forever, so they end up being economical in the long run.
My personal favorite is CBL Soap, which is another great artisan vendor of the TSC.
 
Thanks for the detailed answer. I’ve been using feathers for many years now exclusively, lately I’ve been trying to focus on my angle keeping the blade at 30° from my face that seems to help a little because I never really gave that a whole lot of attention before. Can you recommend another blade that I should try? Are Merkur blades any good?
 
Are Merkur blades any good?
I’ve never used them, but among most users that I’ve read, no they are not. I use Feathers and Personnas almost exclusively. Although Astras are another blade that gets universal praise.
 
I like leaving the top layer of skin though.
There's always a top layer of skin. It's just not the one it was when one started!
HRH grinds apricot seeds in some skin cream on her face and calls it 'exfoliation.'

Apparently the skin thereby revealed on her face is 'younger' and my face is an onion and looks the same whatever.

T
 
Thanks for the detailed answer. I’ve been using feathers for many years now exclusively, lately I’ve been trying to focus on my angle keeping the blade at 30° from my face that seems to help a little because I never really gave that a whole lot of attention before. Can you recommend another blade that I should try? Are Merkur blades any good?
You might want to invest in a sample pack of blades to see which you like. Having used a Feather for ages i used a Lord one day from a sample pack and it was great to not have to compensate for that scary sharpness. i use Derby and Astras for the same reason and if they are worn out after 3 goes, i don't care as they cost next to nothing to begin with.
The question you have to ask is 'do i need to use the sharpest blade on the planet?', why? or can i get a shave that satisfies me without the hassle.
For years i have seen this mythical 30° bandied about, especially amongst straight razor users and it's total rubbish. 'One spine width from your face.'
Cobblers!
Whatever you use, keep the blade as flat on your skin as you can and then raise it up just enough to cut hair. On a safety that may be riding the cap or the guard depending on your style, but that's fine.
i rate Dorco blades in a shavette or DE, but the Merkur blades that came with my 34C back in the day could have been made with chocolate. Avoid them!

T
 

John

Today at 9:13 PM
I’m Italian and I have a pretty heavy beard, I have a question. After using the Merkur34C for many years, I switched to the 38C. I want to close shave, and was advised I Should go with an adjustable, so I decided to try the progress and the futur.. Adjustables seem to knock the beard off quicker,and easier, but I don’t seem to get a closer shave, or one that lasts longer. I just wondered if you guys had luck with the adjustables, and prefer them over the straight bar..I’m not interested in trying straight razors, I really do like the feeling of a DE shave. BTW, I’m on my second week using SV 70 th anniversary,And it’s spectacular. I never thought I’d spend $51 on shaving soap, but it’s really that good..
I plan on trying the Cubebe next..Dave, You mentioned before he might be able to get me a sample?

Hope all is well, big snowstorm coming Friday here in Michigan
John Paul,
You live very close to The Razor Company in Keego Harbor, Mi. They are on Orchard Lake Rd just south of Commerce Rd. I know they carry SV soaps and after shaves. Jason is the owner and her has a very well stocked store.
 
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