I am in the camp of "Snake Oil" and I come at this from a personal and Barber perspective. 1st from a personal note, I have tried almost every one out there from Truefitt & Hill to Shave Magic, to homemade, Proraso, Noxzema, and AOS. I point out AOS and Truefitt & Hill from the Barber Perspective. More on that later
Personally I did not see a marked difference in my shave, other that actually robbing some slickness in the case of Noxzema and Proraso. To the others I found with my skin type it left it too oily and actually interfered with the soaps performance. On a personal level I believe that the quality of the shave soap directly effects this, and PREPARATION to the face is paramount over EVERYTHING. A good shower soap that does not strip but nourishes the skin as it interacts with the hot water in the shower is best. So buy a body or specific face wash for the shower. It had been mentioned that some shower either before the shave or after, or some shave without showering and indicate that they use the -pre-shave then. Again a good facial wash like, clinique, Neutrogena, or the countless others that nourish the face instead of strip.
Let's face it, in today's consumer market the cheaper the better, however you are putting stuff on your face that is laden with really bad stuff. So spend the money as you will be rewarded. Of all people my mom taught me this. I know I come from good genes, however ethnicity also plays a HUGE part in Sebum production and the benefits and detriments of shave oil usage. My mom always used a quality shower soap and facial wash and was religious about it and it showed. Although she is gone this was her at almost 70 yrs of age. So this convinced me to spend the extra dough, I understand this photo is almost 25 yrs old now, but anyway
Ok, from the barber perspective. T&H and AOS tout the pre-shave oils in their barbershops as this magic elixir to prep the face and honestly in my opinion a way to charge $90.00 for a shave. If you think logically... A person comes in off the street, his face is probably soiled, not filthy but a day or morning of stuff. OK we are going to put an aoil on his face which will interact with his current oil level and stimulate the sebaceous glands with more yellow oil and all the dirt he has been carrying..... HUH?
It should be a light water to hydrate the face a layer of the shave soap you will use and a hot towel to refresh the face and set the sebaceous glands to promote new oil products on a CLEAN FACE. This is Snake oil Sales at its best!
All this being said is there a place for Pre-shave oils in a word YES. However it depends on the type of skin you have and your ethnicity, work environment, exposure to different airborne items ETC. Most Mediterranean, Spanish, Islanders etc may be subject to Hyper-seborrhea, or too much sebum production. This leads to acne, and if a pre-shave is used a swampy mess. How can you determine.... Well at about 1:00pm or the middle of the day take a Kleenex and wipe around your face, nose, and forehead, if you see a yellowish soil or your fingers are shiny and oily, it is a good bet you have this issue and adding a pre-shave oil with clog the pores, cause this and may lead to razor bumps, acne etc.
However the Northern Lattitudes and ethnic history may lead to Hypo-seborrhea or not enough sebum production. In this case YES, YES, YES. As you are trying to keep the limited oil you have there and add some to prevent the soap and shave from stripping more.
Bottom line IMHO use what you like, and if you feel it makes your shave better, then, more power to you. IT IS YOUR SHAVE. Just know the facial type you have and adjst accordingly with , razor type, soap type, pre-shave type. there are 4 types of facial skin:
1. Dry (Hypo-Sebborhea)
2. Normal
3. Oily (Hyper-Sebborhea)
4. Combination
I like many others fall into #4 as a result of Norse/German/Scottish (dry skin typically) and Puerto Rican (Oily typically). So I can start with a very dry face in the morning and be an oil slick by the end of the day. Diet also has a HUGE part in determination. Do you take a bunch of vitamins? ( A will curtail sebum production) eat a bunch of oily and or fried foods? So as you can see there are a multitude of factors that determine whether you should use or need to use pre-shave oils. Again YOUR SHAVE, YOUR FACE.
There is really no definitive answer here, if comes down to personal opinion, knowledge of the product, and your personal facial type. As to my feelings I will suymmize this way.
1. Personally: I think it is a waste of time, money, and potentially can cause more problems in shaving
2 As a Barber: It is a wasted step to garner more money, If I have someone in the chair that falls into the dry skin arena, I have plenty of post shave accoutrements I can use to replenish the skin's moisture, and can prep the face with the shave with a good soap, hot towels and good brush work prior to the shave.
There is my $10.95's worth, but again it is UP TO YOU.
Depending on where you