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I'm thinking of buying a welder

ShawnF said:
The 220 will have a higher duty cycle than any 110 model. The reason some of the "homeowner/hobby" models have lower duty cycles is to keep people that dont know better from overloading their house circuts.

The only thing a lower duty cycle means is that you can only run 30 seconds continuously at max power instead of a minute 30 seconds. (Not actual times, but I think you'll get what I mean.)
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Here are the stats. Don't know what it means but here they are.
Duty cycle: 120V: 90A / 40% 24A input; 240V: 160A / 25% 26.8A input
 
The Monkey said:
Here are the stats. Don't know what it means but here they are.
Duty cycle: 120V: 90A / 40% 24A input; 240V: 160A / 25% 26.8A input
Click to expand...
Basically the duty cycle is how long you can run it in a 10 minute period before allowing it to cool down. You are wiring yours for 240, so at 160 amps you can run it for two and a half minutes continuously then let it cool down for seven and a half minutes.
You most likely wont need 160 amps for a .030 or .035 wire to run efficiently on thinner material, so that will up your run time.
The most common big box store wire sizes are .030 solid wire which requires a shielding gas, .030 and and .035 flux core wire that can be run without the need for shielding gas.
I run .045 at work which is significantly larger (requiring more heat to melt) and I weld 1/2 inch thick material at 160 amps.

Inside the door of the machine should be a chart to give you a starting point for heat and wire speed for different size materials.
 
ShawnF said:
Basically the duty cycle is how long you can run it in a 10 minute period before allowing it to cool down. You are wiring yours for 240, so at 160 amps you can run it for two and a half minutes continuously then let it cool down for seven and a half minutes.
You most likely wont need 160 amps for a .030 or .035 wire to run efficiently on thinner material, so that will up your run time.
The most common big box store wire sizes are .030 solid wire which requires a shielding gas, .030 and and .035 flux core wire that can be run without the need for shielding gas.
I run .045 at work which is significantly larger (requiring more heat to melt) and I weld 1/2 inch thick material at 160 amps.

Inside the door of the machine should be a chart to give you a starting point for heat and wire speed for different size materials.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info.
 
@ShawnF going to make a piggy tail to connect welder to the generator. The welder is 3 prong and the generator is 4 prong. I know I need both shots but do I use the neutral or the ground?
 
The Monkey said:
@ShawnF going to make a piggy tail to connect welder to the generator. The welder is 3 prong and the generator is 4 prong. I know I need both shots but do I use the neutral or the ground?
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Let me ask my partner tomorrow to be sure. He is an electrician. I dont want to tell you wrong.
 
ShawnF said:
Let me ask my partner tomorrow to be sure. He is an electrician. I dont want to tell you wrong.
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Thanks. I have a 4 wire cord with a white, red, black and bare ground. Looking online I'm getting mixed information

Here are the ends I have:
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I believe you use the red, black, and ground leaving the neutral off. But Let me double check tomorrow to make sure.
 
That's what I thought it should be too, for a 240V application. It's been so long since I've done this stuff, it's fun to get a refresher.
 
It is great to have experts here. I saw about 50/50 saying neutral and 50/50 saying ground. I was so confused.

@ShawnF can you verify which wire goes where on the welder plug side.

I know G is ground.

20190910_092355.jpg

Not sure on the rest.
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@The Monkey
The one right across from the ground should be the neutral. Looks like the W on your plug. The other two should be the hot wires and across from each other. Those shouldn't matter which is which.
 
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