This is what I've came up with and the accompanying videos that I've done, will be in the next post in this thread. I give this to people who ask me how to shave "our way"
How to Traditional Wet Shave
By: Craig aka clyde72
1[sup]st[/sup] of all what is Traditional Wet Shaving? My definition is using a brush to apply a lather created from a shaving soap or cream to your beard and then using a single blade razor, like a Double Edge (Safety), Single Edge, Shavette, or Straight razor to remove said beard in multiple passes. The following applies to Double Edge Razors also know as Safety Razors.
Why Wet Shave?
To remove facial hair, of course! Less facetiously, a closer shave can generally be had from a wet shave versus an electric razor or multi-bladed razor (cartridge). Perhaps more importantly, the ritual, scents, and connection to the past associated with using high-quality wet shaving products can turn what is generally viewed as a chore into something pleasurable. Myself and many others also feel their skin quality is improved by the exfoliating nature of the wet shave and the moisturizing nature of the products used. The main reason I enjoy Wet Shaving is that in today’s information age, when do you really switch off? A traditional wet-shave can provide you with some well-deserved quiet time where you can block out the rest of the world and just focus on you. This time can be used to reflect, to be mindful, or just to enjoy the experience. Turn this boring chore into an enjoyable activity.
How do you Wet Shave?
This key to a good shave is proper prep and technique. It will take some experimenting to determine which razor(s), blade(s), creams/soaps, etc work best for you. The main thing to remember is when you are shaving apply NO PRESSURE! with the razor. Just let the weight of the razor do the work. The best way to get a feel for this is to hold the razor without a blade by the very end of the handle with 1 finger and thumb. Tilt your head to the side and let the razor rest at about a 30° angle on your cheek. You do not want to apply any more pressure than this.
I recommend starting with a mild razor, such as a RazoRock Mission, or an adjustable razor set on it's lowest setting. I used the Derby blades to start with. I found them to be a good blade to learn with as they are somewhat forgiving. You will have to learn how to make a lather with your cream and brush. I recommend starting with Proraso Cream. It's really easy to lather and will provide a good shave. You can add just a few drops of Vegetable Glycerin to it to really make super slick lather, if you so desire. The RazoRock Plissoft Synthetic Brush is a great brush to start off with. I found it will work well with most creams and soaps. It feels great on your face and has a decent backbone.
I recommend that you join The Shaving Cadre (http://www.theshavingcadre.com) This is the best source of information that I have found on wet shaving. It costs nothing to be a member and there are no stupid questions. My screen name is clyde72.
The Shaving Routine:
Have your cream, brush, lather bowl, razor with blade in it, towels, alum block, witch hazel, and after shave ready at your sink. For you first wet shave be sure to allow yourself about an hour. Will all your shaves take this long? No!! The average is 15 to 30 minutes or less once you get your technique down. I just don't want you to rush for your 1[sup]st[/sup] shave. Take your time and focus on your technique. Relax and enjoy your shave!
[list type=decimal][*]
Place your brush and razor in your lather bowl and cover the bristles on your brush with hot water, no hotter than you can stand on your face. Place your bowl with, brush and razor in sink and fill sink to rim of bowl with hot water. Leave soaking while taking your shower.
[*]
Proceed with shower.
[*]
Clean face and beard. Use a good quality facial cleanser and/or scrub. The preferred way is to do this in the shower. This way your beard has absorbed all the moisture it can from your shower and is now clean too. I recommend washing your face last. (Recommended Cleansers/scrubs: LAB Series, Jack Black, Every Man Jack, Urth, Bulldog, Dove Men+Care, and No. 7)
[*]
Pat your face dry. Do not rub with the towel, or you can leave it wet.
[*]
Remove shaving bowl from sink and drain water from sink, remove razor and set aside, remove brush and shake out excess water or just give it a little squeeze. Dump water out of bowl and dry off bowl inside and out.
[*]
Place towel in sink and soak it in hot water, as hot as your face can stand. Some people also enjoy microwaving a wet towel. Just wet the towel wring it out, roll it up, and microwave for about 20 seconds. Be sure to make sure the towel is not too hot before putting it on your face!
[*]
Put an almond size amount of shaving cream in bottom of lather bowl.
[*]
Place your brush in the bowl and start building a lather by swirling the cream with the brush. Do this for about 30 seconds. Add a few drops of water and swirl some more. Swirl like you hate it! Repeat until lather has reached a yogurt like consistency, it should be shiny. If not add a few more drops of water and swirl some more. If you add too much water you can always add more cream. With practice you will be able to do this without even thinking about it.
[*]
Set bowl and brush aside.
[*]
Take the now hot towel and apply it to your face for about 1 minute. Reheat towel and apply for another minute.
[*]
Wet face with hot water. (As hot as is comfortable for you) and leave it wet.
[*]
Swirl your brush a few time in bowl to load some lather on it. Apply lather to face and beard using short painting strokes in different directions and/or small swirling motion. Do this till beard is covered and continue for 30 seconds.
[*]
Using long strokes build a cushion of lather on beard.
[*]
Place brush back in lather bowl and give it about 15 seconds of swirling.
[*]
Let the lather sit on your face for about 30 seconds to a minute to soften your beard.
[*]
Dry your hands. Never handle a razor with wet hands.
[*]
Pickup your razor and wet the head and blade. Place it on your face, perpendicular to your cheek, tilt the razor handle down slightly and move it slowly down your cheek just a little. If you don't feel it cutting your beard move the handle lower until you do. This is the angle you want, with the blade just cutting your beard. It will be somewhere in the 30° neighborhood, but with different razors, blades, and settings it can and will vary.
[*]
Use short slow strokes, going with the grain of your beard (WTG-With The Grain). For most people this means a downward stroke. NO PRESSURE! Let the weight of the razor do the work. You can use your free hand to stretch/flatten your skin in front of the razor, and of course you can and will make the “shaving faces”. Keep your wrist locked and move your entire arm to keep the razor at the correct angle.
[*]
Work on one section of your face/neck at a time. Rinsing razor frequently. Don't worry if you still see or feel stubble. We are reducing the beard. We are not taking it all off in one pass.
[*]
Once you have completed your 1[sup]st[/sup] pass. Rinse your face with hot water. You don't have to completely rinse your face, your just want to remove any loose whiskers. It is actually good for it to still be slick. Reapply lather. This time we are going to do an XTG (Across The Grain) pass. This is done the same way as the WTG pass. Short strokes working from ear to nose. NO PRESSURE! As you learn your beard you will notice that it grows in different directions that XTG and ATG don't match up with. You can compensate for that with experience.
[*]
For your 1[sup]st[/sup] few shaves until you get your lathering and shaving technique dialed in stop here and proceed to the post shave process. After you can get a nick, weeper, and razor burn free shave, you can add a 3[sup]rd[/sup] pass ATG (Against The Grain) if necessary. This is going from neck to nose direction and can yield a supper close shave, know as a BBS, Baby Butt Smooth. FYI there are levels of shaves, CCS Close Comfortable Shave, SAS Socialy Acceptable Shave, DFS Damn Fine Shave and BBS. Don't worry about getting the BBS shave at first or maybe even never. A CCS or DFS is more than likely as close as you are used to getting.
[*]
If you have progressed to the ATG pass, rinse face, and feel for any missed areas. Apply lather to those areas and using a buffing action, (very short quick light strokes) touch-up the missed areas. Always remember NO PRESSURE!!
[*]
(Post Shave) Rinse face with hot water removing all lather.
[*]
Rinse face with cold water to close pores. Leave face wet.
[*]
Wet alum block with cold water and rub all over shaved areas. There might be some stinging. This lets you know where you need to work on your technique. When you get a great shave the alum block will have very little to no sting. The alum blocks will stop most nicks and weepers. It also closes your pores and tightens your skin. Leave alum on face for about a minute. I use this time to start cleaning up. Rinsing my razor or brush.
[*]
Rinse alum off with cold water. Pat face dry with towel. I use a paper towel to dry off the alum block. You always should dry the alum block before you put it away.
[*]
Splash on Witch Hazel. Allow it to dry completely. I put witch hazel on my entire face. Of course avoid your eyes!
[*]
Apply after shave balm and/or lotion. See List of recommended After Shaves below. I also apply a moisturizer to none shaved areas at this time.
[*]
Completely rinse out brush and clean razor. Rinse out and dry lather bowl.
[*]
Dry brush on towel just by wiping it on towel.
[*]
Dry off razor.
[*]
Place razor and brush in stand to air dry.
[*]
Rinse out sink and dry off area.
[*]
Store the rest of your shaving supplies.
[/list type=decimal]
After you are able to get a nick free, weeper free, and no razor burn shave consistently. If you are using an adjustable razor you can play with the setting now. I would use each setting for at least 3 or 4 shaves before moving to the next one. Then you can begin testing out different blades. Don't change anything but the blade when you are trying one out. That way you know how the blade performs for you.
This is a list of suggested blades to test and the order to test them in.
Suggested Order Of Usage
1 Derby
2 Dorco ST301 Platinum
3 Personna Red Israeli
4 Dorco Platinum ST300
5 Shark Super Stainless
6 Dorco Prime Platinum
7 Gillette Nacet
8 Bolzano Superinox Inossidable
9 Kai Stainless Steel
10 Gillette 7 o'clock Black
11 Perma-Sharp
12 Gillette 7 o'clock Super Stainless (Green)
13 Wilkinson Sword
14 Gillette Wilkinson Sword
15 Astra Superiir Stainless
16 Rapira Super Stainless
17 Rapira Swedish SuperSteel
18 Gillette 7 o'clock Sharp Edge (Yellow)
19 Voskhod
20 Crystals
21 Gillette Platinum
22 Rapira Platinum Lux
23 PolSilver Super Iridium
24 Gillette Silver Blue
25 Personna Lab Blues
26 Personna Med Preps
27 Rockwell
28 Parker Premium
29 Astra Superior Platinum
30 Feather
You don't have to follow this order, but what ever you do, don't just jump right to the Feather. Blades are one of the biggest YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) items in the world of wet shaving. What I say is a great blade you may hate and vice versa. There is one constant though. Feathers are considered by most to be the sharpest and least forgiving blade. Some experienced wet shavers cannot use them at all. They are just too aggressive. Therefore save them for last. Use each blade for at least 5 or 6 shaves. If possible make one of those a 2 day growth shave. Don't change anything else but the blade during this trial period. Of course if a blade is just tearing your face up, move on to the next one. I'll bet after you have tested all these blades you will have found at least one or two that give you the best shave you've ever had. There are more blades out there, but these are the most popular ones on Badger and Blade.
This is a good time to experiment with different after shaves as they don't effect your shave just your post shave.
Here are some recommended After Shaves:
LAB
Series Pro LS All-In-One-Face-Treatment
LAB Series Razor Burn Relief Ultra (when needed)
Proraso After Shave Balms / Lotion (4 different ones)
L'Oreal Men Expert After Shave Balm
Pacific Shaving Co. Caffeinated After Shave
Aqua Velva (Just choose your favorite scent)
Old Spice After Shave Lotion
Pinaud Clubman After Shave Lotion (multiple scents)
Grooming Lounge Best For Last Aftershave
Dove Men+Care Hydrate+ Post Shave Balm
Floid After Shaves and Balm (multiple scents)
Fine After Shaves (multiple scents)
Lucky Tiger After Shave Face Tonic
Booster After Shave Lotions (multiple scents)
Agua Brava After Shave Lotion
Brut Classic After Shave
Bull Dog After Shave Balm
No. 7 Men Calming Post Shave Recovery Balm
Soap Commander After Shave Balms (multiple scents)
Stirling Soap Balms (multiple scents)
After you have found your “prefect” blade(s) then test different creams/soaps, brushes, and/or razors. Always change only one thing at a time. That way you can see what you like and what doesn't work without wondering was it the blade, the brush, the cream, all of them?
It's a very good idea to start and keep a Shaving Journal. Document what you like and what works and doesn't work for you. The Shaving Cadre has a section that allows you to do this.
I hope you enjoy this journey as much as I have. I actually look forward to shaving now as opposed to something that I had to do everyday.
Here are some suggested places to purchase shaving supplies:
http://www.italianbarber.com
http://www.westcoastshaving.com
http://www.groominglounge.com
http://www.tryablade.com
http://www.maggardrazors.com
straightrazordesigns.com
straightrazors.com
amazon.com
http://www.stirlingsoap.com
soapcommander.com
bullgooseshaving.com
groomatorium.com
fineaccoutrements.com
wetshavingproducts.com
Always feel free to ask me any questions.
Enjoy Your Shaves!
How to Traditional Wet Shave
By: Craig aka clyde72
1[sup]st[/sup] of all what is Traditional Wet Shaving? My definition is using a brush to apply a lather created from a shaving soap or cream to your beard and then using a single blade razor, like a Double Edge (Safety), Single Edge, Shavette, or Straight razor to remove said beard in multiple passes. The following applies to Double Edge Razors also know as Safety Razors.
Why Wet Shave?
To remove facial hair, of course! Less facetiously, a closer shave can generally be had from a wet shave versus an electric razor or multi-bladed razor (cartridge). Perhaps more importantly, the ritual, scents, and connection to the past associated with using high-quality wet shaving products can turn what is generally viewed as a chore into something pleasurable. Myself and many others also feel their skin quality is improved by the exfoliating nature of the wet shave and the moisturizing nature of the products used. The main reason I enjoy Wet Shaving is that in today’s information age, when do you really switch off? A traditional wet-shave can provide you with some well-deserved quiet time where you can block out the rest of the world and just focus on you. This time can be used to reflect, to be mindful, or just to enjoy the experience. Turn this boring chore into an enjoyable activity.
How do you Wet Shave?
This key to a good shave is proper prep and technique. It will take some experimenting to determine which razor(s), blade(s), creams/soaps, etc work best for you. The main thing to remember is when you are shaving apply NO PRESSURE! with the razor. Just let the weight of the razor do the work. The best way to get a feel for this is to hold the razor without a blade by the very end of the handle with 1 finger and thumb. Tilt your head to the side and let the razor rest at about a 30° angle on your cheek. You do not want to apply any more pressure than this.
I recommend starting with a mild razor, such as a RazoRock Mission, or an adjustable razor set on it's lowest setting. I used the Derby blades to start with. I found them to be a good blade to learn with as they are somewhat forgiving. You will have to learn how to make a lather with your cream and brush. I recommend starting with Proraso Cream. It's really easy to lather and will provide a good shave. You can add just a few drops of Vegetable Glycerin to it to really make super slick lather, if you so desire. The RazoRock Plissoft Synthetic Brush is a great brush to start off with. I found it will work well with most creams and soaps. It feels great on your face and has a decent backbone.
I recommend that you join The Shaving Cadre (http://www.theshavingcadre.com) This is the best source of information that I have found on wet shaving. It costs nothing to be a member and there are no stupid questions. My screen name is clyde72.
The Shaving Routine:
Have your cream, brush, lather bowl, razor with blade in it, towels, alum block, witch hazel, and after shave ready at your sink. For you first wet shave be sure to allow yourself about an hour. Will all your shaves take this long? No!! The average is 15 to 30 minutes or less once you get your technique down. I just don't want you to rush for your 1[sup]st[/sup] shave. Take your time and focus on your technique. Relax and enjoy your shave!
[list type=decimal][*]
Place your brush and razor in your lather bowl and cover the bristles on your brush with hot water, no hotter than you can stand on your face. Place your bowl with, brush and razor in sink and fill sink to rim of bowl with hot water. Leave soaking while taking your shower.
[*]
Proceed with shower.
[*]
Clean face and beard. Use a good quality facial cleanser and/or scrub. The preferred way is to do this in the shower. This way your beard has absorbed all the moisture it can from your shower and is now clean too. I recommend washing your face last. (Recommended Cleansers/scrubs: LAB Series, Jack Black, Every Man Jack, Urth, Bulldog, Dove Men+Care, and No. 7)
[*]
Pat your face dry. Do not rub with the towel, or you can leave it wet.
[*]
Remove shaving bowl from sink and drain water from sink, remove razor and set aside, remove brush and shake out excess water or just give it a little squeeze. Dump water out of bowl and dry off bowl inside and out.
[*]
Place towel in sink and soak it in hot water, as hot as your face can stand. Some people also enjoy microwaving a wet towel. Just wet the towel wring it out, roll it up, and microwave for about 20 seconds. Be sure to make sure the towel is not too hot before putting it on your face!
[*]
Put an almond size amount of shaving cream in bottom of lather bowl.
[*]
Place your brush in the bowl and start building a lather by swirling the cream with the brush. Do this for about 30 seconds. Add a few drops of water and swirl some more. Swirl like you hate it! Repeat until lather has reached a yogurt like consistency, it should be shiny. If not add a few more drops of water and swirl some more. If you add too much water you can always add more cream. With practice you will be able to do this without even thinking about it.
[*]
Set bowl and brush aside.
[*]
Take the now hot towel and apply it to your face for about 1 minute. Reheat towel and apply for another minute.
[*]
Wet face with hot water. (As hot as is comfortable for you) and leave it wet.
[*]
Swirl your brush a few time in bowl to load some lather on it. Apply lather to face and beard using short painting strokes in different directions and/or small swirling motion. Do this till beard is covered and continue for 30 seconds.
[*]
Using long strokes build a cushion of lather on beard.
[*]
Place brush back in lather bowl and give it about 15 seconds of swirling.
[*]
Let the lather sit on your face for about 30 seconds to a minute to soften your beard.
[*]
Dry your hands. Never handle a razor with wet hands.
[*]
Pickup your razor and wet the head and blade. Place it on your face, perpendicular to your cheek, tilt the razor handle down slightly and move it slowly down your cheek just a little. If you don't feel it cutting your beard move the handle lower until you do. This is the angle you want, with the blade just cutting your beard. It will be somewhere in the 30° neighborhood, but with different razors, blades, and settings it can and will vary.
[*]
Use short slow strokes, going with the grain of your beard (WTG-With The Grain). For most people this means a downward stroke. NO PRESSURE! Let the weight of the razor do the work. You can use your free hand to stretch/flatten your skin in front of the razor, and of course you can and will make the “shaving faces”. Keep your wrist locked and move your entire arm to keep the razor at the correct angle.
[*]
Work on one section of your face/neck at a time. Rinsing razor frequently. Don't worry if you still see or feel stubble. We are reducing the beard. We are not taking it all off in one pass.
[*]
Once you have completed your 1[sup]st[/sup] pass. Rinse your face with hot water. You don't have to completely rinse your face, your just want to remove any loose whiskers. It is actually good for it to still be slick. Reapply lather. This time we are going to do an XTG (Across The Grain) pass. This is done the same way as the WTG pass. Short strokes working from ear to nose. NO PRESSURE! As you learn your beard you will notice that it grows in different directions that XTG and ATG don't match up with. You can compensate for that with experience.
[*]
For your 1[sup]st[/sup] few shaves until you get your lathering and shaving technique dialed in stop here and proceed to the post shave process. After you can get a nick, weeper, and razor burn free shave, you can add a 3[sup]rd[/sup] pass ATG (Against The Grain) if necessary. This is going from neck to nose direction and can yield a supper close shave, know as a BBS, Baby Butt Smooth. FYI there are levels of shaves, CCS Close Comfortable Shave, SAS Socialy Acceptable Shave, DFS Damn Fine Shave and BBS. Don't worry about getting the BBS shave at first or maybe even never. A CCS or DFS is more than likely as close as you are used to getting.
[*]
If you have progressed to the ATG pass, rinse face, and feel for any missed areas. Apply lather to those areas and using a buffing action, (very short quick light strokes) touch-up the missed areas. Always remember NO PRESSURE!!
[*]
(Post Shave) Rinse face with hot water removing all lather.
[*]
Rinse face with cold water to close pores. Leave face wet.
[*]
Wet alum block with cold water and rub all over shaved areas. There might be some stinging. This lets you know where you need to work on your technique. When you get a great shave the alum block will have very little to no sting. The alum blocks will stop most nicks and weepers. It also closes your pores and tightens your skin. Leave alum on face for about a minute. I use this time to start cleaning up. Rinsing my razor or brush.
[*]
Rinse alum off with cold water. Pat face dry with towel. I use a paper towel to dry off the alum block. You always should dry the alum block before you put it away.
[*]
Splash on Witch Hazel. Allow it to dry completely. I put witch hazel on my entire face. Of course avoid your eyes!
[*]
Apply after shave balm and/or lotion. See List of recommended After Shaves below. I also apply a moisturizer to none shaved areas at this time.
[*]
Completely rinse out brush and clean razor. Rinse out and dry lather bowl.
[*]
Dry brush on towel just by wiping it on towel.
[*]
Dry off razor.
[*]
Place razor and brush in stand to air dry.
[*]
Rinse out sink and dry off area.
[*]
Store the rest of your shaving supplies.
[/list type=decimal]
After you are able to get a nick free, weeper free, and no razor burn shave consistently. If you are using an adjustable razor you can play with the setting now. I would use each setting for at least 3 or 4 shaves before moving to the next one. Then you can begin testing out different blades. Don't change anything but the blade when you are trying one out. That way you know how the blade performs for you.
This is a list of suggested blades to test and the order to test them in.
Suggested Order Of Usage
1 Derby
2 Dorco ST301 Platinum
3 Personna Red Israeli
4 Dorco Platinum ST300
5 Shark Super Stainless
6 Dorco Prime Platinum
7 Gillette Nacet
8 Bolzano Superinox Inossidable
9 Kai Stainless Steel
10 Gillette 7 o'clock Black
11 Perma-Sharp
12 Gillette 7 o'clock Super Stainless (Green)
13 Wilkinson Sword
14 Gillette Wilkinson Sword
15 Astra Superiir Stainless
16 Rapira Super Stainless
17 Rapira Swedish SuperSteel
18 Gillette 7 o'clock Sharp Edge (Yellow)
19 Voskhod
20 Crystals
21 Gillette Platinum
22 Rapira Platinum Lux
23 PolSilver Super Iridium
24 Gillette Silver Blue
25 Personna Lab Blues
26 Personna Med Preps
27 Rockwell
28 Parker Premium
29 Astra Superior Platinum
30 Feather
You don't have to follow this order, but what ever you do, don't just jump right to the Feather. Blades are one of the biggest YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) items in the world of wet shaving. What I say is a great blade you may hate and vice versa. There is one constant though. Feathers are considered by most to be the sharpest and least forgiving blade. Some experienced wet shavers cannot use them at all. They are just too aggressive. Therefore save them for last. Use each blade for at least 5 or 6 shaves. If possible make one of those a 2 day growth shave. Don't change anything else but the blade during this trial period. Of course if a blade is just tearing your face up, move on to the next one. I'll bet after you have tested all these blades you will have found at least one or two that give you the best shave you've ever had. There are more blades out there, but these are the most popular ones on Badger and Blade.
This is a good time to experiment with different after shaves as they don't effect your shave just your post shave.
Here are some recommended After Shaves:
LAB
Series Pro LS All-In-One-Face-Treatment
LAB Series Razor Burn Relief Ultra (when needed)
Proraso After Shave Balms / Lotion (4 different ones)
L'Oreal Men Expert After Shave Balm
Pacific Shaving Co. Caffeinated After Shave
Aqua Velva (Just choose your favorite scent)
Old Spice After Shave Lotion
Pinaud Clubman After Shave Lotion (multiple scents)
Grooming Lounge Best For Last Aftershave
Dove Men+Care Hydrate+ Post Shave Balm
Floid After Shaves and Balm (multiple scents)
Fine After Shaves (multiple scents)
Lucky Tiger After Shave Face Tonic
Booster After Shave Lotions (multiple scents)
Agua Brava After Shave Lotion
Brut Classic After Shave
Bull Dog After Shave Balm
No. 7 Men Calming Post Shave Recovery Balm
Soap Commander After Shave Balms (multiple scents)
Stirling Soap Balms (multiple scents)
After you have found your “prefect” blade(s) then test different creams/soaps, brushes, and/or razors. Always change only one thing at a time. That way you can see what you like and what doesn't work without wondering was it the blade, the brush, the cream, all of them?
It's a very good idea to start and keep a Shaving Journal. Document what you like and what works and doesn't work for you. The Shaving Cadre has a section that allows you to do this.
I hope you enjoy this journey as much as I have. I actually look forward to shaving now as opposed to something that I had to do everyday.
Here are some suggested places to purchase shaving supplies:
http://www.italianbarber.com
http://www.westcoastshaving.com
http://www.groominglounge.com
http://www.tryablade.com
http://www.maggardrazors.com
straightrazordesigns.com
straightrazors.com
amazon.com
http://www.stirlingsoap.com
soapcommander.com
bullgooseshaving.com
groomatorium.com
fineaccoutrements.com
wetshavingproducts.com
Always feel free to ask me any questions.
Enjoy Your Shaves!
