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Current state of Wet Shaving

dangerousdon

dangerousdon

"I am Udderly Insufferable”
Veteran
Concierge Emeritus
Just a general observational topic and wonder what the Cadre thinks. I have been wet shaving since 2014. It hasn't been all that long, but long enough to see a lot of trends come and go...as well as a lot of Wet Shaving businesses come and go.

When I first began, all the talk was about the Big British Shaving Houses, a very few artisans (thinking mostly of St. Charles Shave, Mystic Water, Honeybee Sue, and some others), and some in between soap makers (Martin de Candre comes to mind). Since this time span we have seen some really great soap makers really make their mark. Some sustained their businesses...others did not for various reasons.

Then there is the hardware. Brushes and razors specifically. Paladin is a force to be reckoned with it seems, as their popularity continues to soar and demand is always off the charts. You have the big names like them and Wolf Whiskers, as well as some others. Then their are the other guys that have seem to made their mark also. It seems that the creativity and quality of brushes has no bounds...this is a good thing.

While we are on the topic of brushes...when I first started, the high quality badger knots were the gold standard. Super expensive and brushes with these knot were not for those who just wanted to try out this crazy craze called wet shaving. Inexpensive brushes were the boar brush or the really low end badger brushes (Escali comes to my mind...incidentally, this was my first brush). And synthetics were these weird stiff almost plastic bristles that didn't lather all that well. Now...VERY good badger knots can be had for half the price or even less. Many have gravitated to the synthetic that in some cases are better performers than their natural bristle counterparts...and are VERY inexpensive. This has opened the door for the artisan brush maker.

Razors are in the same boat. When I first started...the razors to be had were the Vander Hagen (and like), Merkur, Muhle, Parker, and then you had the ultra luxury shaves like Above the Tie and so forth. If you didn't want a new razor then the secondary market with the classic Gillette Razors were for you. Now-a-days...it seems like everyone has their own razor. And the price range starts small and goes to almost unobtainable. And the configurations are endless.

If you can't find an aftershave scent that you like...well...then you just can't be pleased. Looking at our very own Stirling Soap Co. @Joe Hackett , the scent list they have is amazingly long and I always feel like a kid in a candy store looking at the website! In addition to scent, there are a lot of aftershaves that not only disinfect your skin with a blast of alcohol, but are just really good for your skin with all sorts of ingredients that make the dermal layer of your face soft and supple...the women in our lives now appreciate our hobby.

And indeed...while I won't go out and say that wet shaving is main stream...we certainly are getting there. You see it in movies and on TV. There are forums, YouTube Channels, Facebook groups and other social media references. I can't open up Instagram without seeing a Shave of the Day picture. And Podcasts...yup there are several podcasts about shaving. You know you are hitting the mainstream vibe when there are podcasts about shaving. I am waiting for the day when Joe Rogan will interview our very own Chris @CBLindsay about his wet shaving business @CBLSoap.com .

These are just some quick observations. This wasn't meant to be an all inclusive list. But since 2014, the wet shaving world has made leaps and strides.

So...what are some of your observations since you began wet shaving!
 
I have noticed a lot of trends, good and bad. Shaving soap artisans are many and they’re everywhere, which is a good thing I think. Most any scent or formula you can think of, somebody has it for you to buy. There are countless brush makers hand making brushes, truly talent craftsmen who are passionate about their trade. Precision Razors that are machined to tolerances that rival the aviation industry, and lots of them. The options and choices are nearly limitless. All of this is good for the market and the hobby.

One thing I think is a serious problem is that it’s so easy and so tempting to dive head first down the rabbit hole. For some, this hobby basically amounts to a drug addiction. Numerous people have talked to me personally and mentioned that if they used a different soap every day it would take them more than a year to use them all just once. And it bothers them. I myself have purged my den a couple times of hardware and software that simply became pointless because I had so much of it. Brushes and razors stopped being tools and started becoming trinkets. It was a serious problem.

I’m not trying to ruin everybody’s day. But I do think this one problem carries almost as much weight on the scale as all the positive trends combined.

I have to wonder, what fuels this fire? How did we get here? And where are we going?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Soap Thing said:
I have noticed a lot of trends, good and bad. Shaving soap artisans are many and they’re everywhere, which is a good thing I think. Most any scent or formula you can think of, somebody has it for you to buy. There are countless brush makers hand making brushes, truly talent craftsmen who are passionate about their trade. Precision Razors that are machined to tolerances that rival the aviation industry, and lots of them. The options and choices are nearly limitless. All of this is good for the market and the hobby.

One thing I think is a serious problem is that it’s so easy and so tempting to dive head first down the rabbit hole. For some, this hobby basically amounts to a drug addiction. Numerous people have talked to me personally and mentioned that if they used a different soap every day it would take them more than a year to use them all just once. And it bothers them. I myself have purged my den a couple times of hardware and software that simply became pointless because I had so much of it. Brushes and razors stopped being tools and started becoming trinkets. It was a serious problem.

I’m not trying to ruin everybody’s day. But I do think this one problem carries almost as much weight on the scale as all the positive trends combined.

I have to wonder, what fuels this fire? How did we get here? And where are we going?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
As with all things, moderation is key.
 
dangerousdon said:
Just a general observational topic and wonder what the Cadre thinks. I have been wet shaving since 2014. It hasn't been all that long, but long enough to see a lot of trends come and go...as well as a lot of Wet Shaving businesses come and go.

When I first began, all the talk was about the Big British Shaving Houses, a very few artisans (thinking mostly of St. Charles Shave, Mystic Water, Honeybee Sue, and some others), and some in between soap makers (Martin de Candre comes to mind). Since this time span we have seen some really great soap makers really make their mark. Some sustained their businesses...others did not for various reasons.

Then there is the hardware. Brushes and razors specifically. Paladin is a force to be reckoned with it seems, as their popularity continues to soar and demand is always off the charts. You have the big names like them and Wolf Whiskers, as well as some others. Then their are the other guys that have seem to made their mark also. It seems that the creativity and quality of brushes has no bounds...this is a good thing.

While we are on the topic of brushes...when I first started, the high quality badger knots were the gold standard. Super expensive and brushes with these knot were not for those who just wanted to try out this crazy craze called wet shaving. Inexpensive brushes were the boar brush or the really low end badger brushes (Escali comes to my mind...incidentally, this was my first brush). And synthetics were these weird stiff almost plastic bristles that didn't lather all that well. Now...VERY good badger knots can be had for half the price or even less. Many have gravitated to the synthetic that in some cases are better performers than their natural bristle counterparts...and are VERY inexpensive. This has opened the door for the artisan brush maker.

Razors are in the same boat. When I first started...the razors to be had were the Vander Hagen (and like), Merkur, Muhle, Parker, and then you had the ultra luxury shaves like Above the Tie and so forth. If you didn't want a new razor then the secondary market with the classic Gillette Razors were for you. Now-a-days...it seems like everyone has their own razor. And the price range starts small and goes to almost unobtainable. And the configurations are endless.

If you can't find an aftershave scent that you like...well...then you just can't be pleased. Looking at our very own Stirling Soap Co. @Joe Hackett , the scent list they have is amazingly long and I always feel like a kid in a candy store looking at the website! In addition to scent, there are a lot of aftershaves that not only disinfect your skin with a blast of alcohol, but are just really good for your skin with all sorts of ingredients that make the dermal layer of your face soft and supple...the women in our lives now appreciate our hobby.

And indeed...while I won't go out and say that wet shaving is main stream...we certainly are getting there. You see it in movies and on TV. There are forums, YouTube Channels, Facebook groups and other social media references. I can't open up Instagram without seeing a Shave of the Day picture. And Podcasts...yup there are several podcasts about shaving. You know you are hitting the mainstream vibe when there are podcasts about shaving. I am waiting for the day when Joe Rogan will interview our very own Chris @CBLindsay about his wet shaving business @CBLSoap.com .

These are just some quick observations. This wasn't meant to be an all inclusive list. But since 2014, the wet shaving world has made leaps and strides.

So...what are some of your observations since you began wet shaving!
Click to expand...
Nothing has changed for me, any shaving gear made after the automobile went to 12 volts is meaningless. ;)
 
We’ve all said or heard it. Truly we are living in a golden age for wet shaving. More soaps, frags, and formulations. Better edges, and weirdos like us spreading the goodness over the planet. I started pretty much with straights, but now embrace most all of old and new whisker removal of our genre. (Save carts, but they have their place too)
 
I have some more thoughts. But for me at least the big one that has changed over the years and I have also been in this since 2013-2014ish.

The vast majority of artisans now days soaps are all good. So I really only look at two factors scent and price. Now granted there a few artisans that performance is better. But most all perform practically the same.

And I have too much soap
 
Soap Thing said:
One thing I think is a serious problem is that it’s so easy and so tempting to dive head first down the rabbit hole. For some, this hobby basically amounts to a drug addiction. Numerous people have talked to me personally and mentioned that if they used a different soap every day it would take them more than a year to use them all just once. And it bothers them. I myself have purged my den a couple times of hardware and software that simply became pointless because I had so much of it. Brushes and razors stopped being tools and started becoming trinkets. It was a serious problem.
Click to expand...
I think this is a very important point. I remember one guy from another forum that jumped headlong into this hobby of ours (because let's face it...it is a hobby for almost all of us) and really did treat it like it was an addiction. Really hurt his relationships around him and sunk a lot of money that he couldn't afford spend. We each have to police ourselves. Most of us don't have a group of buddies that wet shave along with us and can see what kind of damage we do to ourselves. Anything can be an addiction.

That being said...I don't have nearly as much gear as a lot of my wet shaving friends. But I have more than I need. I think I have in the neighborhood of 12 brushes or so. Any one of them is more than sufficient to last my wet shaving life. Sure some are better than the others...but in one month...I probably only use four of them...but will pick one up from time to time that I haven't used in a while. Razors are the same way...probably around 10 or so. Two or three I will use on a consistent basis. Others I pick up from time to time. One (My in really good condition Big Fellow) I probably only pull out to use once or twice a year).

But honestly...I wouldn't call these items trinkets. To me a "trinket" has very little worth. I have a Gillette Super Speed TV Special. It's not worth all that much really, it's in okay shape. But it's worth something to me, because it is the first vintage razor I bought and it was something that I looked up and learned from. I have a Grand Shave King...it might be worth something...then again...it might not. But I don't care...because it is a pretty rare razor that other new razor makers are copying and is from 1945. I rarely use it. But I certainly wouldn't call it a trinket. It's something that I will keep in my den forever (or at least until I can figure out how to trade it for a gun... 🤪 ).

Software is super easy to collect. I think I have only actually bought a handful of soaps over the past year...yet, somehow I keep acquiring more and more. Shave soaps are like Tribbles from Star Trek...or Gremlins when you expose them water. Or basically like high schoolers when you announce that you are having a party...they just show up.

Aftershaves are less so...but I have more aftershave than I know what to do with at this point, though I am still lacking some scents. Aftershaves are my jam, even though I am relegated to unscented because of the baby.
 
dangerousdon said:
I think this is a very important point. I remember one guy from another forum that jumped headlong into this hobby of ours (because let's face it...it is a hobby for almost all of us) and really did treat it like it was an addiction. Really hurt his relationships around him and sunk a lot of money that he couldn't afford spend. We each have to police ourselves. Most of us don't have a group of buddies that wet shave along with us and can see what kind of damage we do to ourselves. Anything can be an addiction.

That being said...I don't have nearly as much gear as a lot of my wet shaving friends. But I have more than I need. I think I have in the neighborhood of 12 brushes or so. Any one of them is more than sufficient to last my wet shaving life. Sure some are better than the others...but in one month...I probably only use four of them...but will pick one up from time to time that I haven't used in a while. Razors are the same way...probably around 10 or so. Two or three I will use on a consistent basis. Others I pick up from time to time. One (My in really good condition Big Fellow) I probably only pull out to use once or twice a year).

But honestly...I wouldn't call these items trinkets. To me a "trinket" has very little worth. I have a Gillette Super Speed TV Special. It's not worth all that much really, it's in okay shape. But it's worth something to me, because it is the first vintage razor I bought and it was something that I looked up and learned from. I have a Grand Shave King...it might be worth something...then again...it might not. But I don't care...because it is a pretty rare razor that other new razor makers are copying and is from 1945. I rarely use it. But I certainly wouldn't call it a trinket. It's something that I will keep in my den forever (or at least until I can figure out how to trade it for a gun... [emoji2957] ).

Software is super easy to collect. I think I have only actually bought a handful of soaps over the past year...yet, somehow I keep acquiring more and more. Shave soaps are like Tribbles from Star Trek...or Gremlins when you expose them water. Or basically like high schoolers when you announce that you are having a party...they just show up.

Aftershaves are less so...but I have more aftershave than I know what to do with at this point, though I am still lacking some scents. Aftershaves are my jam, even though I am relegated to unscented because of the baby.
Click to expand...

Maybe trinket is a poor choice of words. Collectors item is probably more accurate. There’s a blurry line between a shaving tool and a portfolio of baseball cards if you think about it. If you have the disposable income for that then that’s great. I just think people succumb to peer pressure and we need to be better at telling new people they do not need a room full of high end hardware and software to get a high quality shave. I personally don’t think we say that nearly often enough.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
CVargo said:
I have some more thoughts. But for me at least the big one that has changed over the years and I have also been in this since 2013-2014ish.

The vast majority of artisans now days soaps are all good. So I really only look at two factors scent and price. Now granted there a few artisans that performance is better. But most all perform practically the same.

And I have too much soap
Click to expand...

I think this is a big one for me personally as well. Similar to Chad and Don, I too got into this in 2013, a direct result of stumbling across r/wicked_edge on Reddit. Back then, the artisan space was limited. My first artisan soap was Catie's Bubbles and then Mystic Waters. Artisans came and went, performance could be hit or miss. Nowadays, from what I can only assume to be proliferation of better information for soap makers to delve into when making a shave soap base, there aren't many "bad" performers that I can think of using recently. Everyone has a good base. So like Chad, I tend to shop based on scent and price, with also some brand loyalty and desire to patronize certain soap makers to a lesser extent.

I don't dabble as much in the hardware realm. I never had the budget for those crazy high end badgers so as synthetics have dramatically improved, I've grown the brush collection a little bit. Vintage razors were always cheaper and more fun to me so I only have a handful of modern. But as others have noted, bespoke brush handles appear to be all the rage right now and expensive highly machined razors seem to come up with more and more frequency.

Now is definitely a golden age of wet shaving and it has come a long way in the 8 years I've been a part of it. I found my groove years ago and have stuck fairly close to it. Can't wait to see what happens in the next decade or so!
 
Great topic, one that I am sure every TSC member has something to add. I hesitate to try to remember exactly when I dove into the wet shaving pool but I guess its safe to say I dabbled with the idea at least 25 years ago but, without a place to learn how it is really done I didn't go much further until maybe 2014-15. I still have that DE razor I used 25+ years ago (off and on) and even have some of the older Aftershaves I bought along the way (Old spice,etc.). I don't know when "Wet Shaving" became a bigger thing that it was 25 years ago when I first dabbled, but I suspect it was within the last 10 years and probably very much a result of the St. Charles' and Honeybee Sue's who first made variety available at a reasonable price and quality. The emergence of wet shaving forums and kitchen made artisan soaps definitely made wet shaving more approachable which no doubt led to its status as a hobby.

One thing that struck me after reading your post @dangerousdon was that by posting it to an online forum you are in a sense speaking to the choir, those who have gone further down the path than the general public. Has "wet shaving" gone mainstream, and if so, what was the catalyst? The answer to this question really depends on our perspective and how we define terms like wet shaving. Personally, I think CALLING the otherwise mundane daily task "wet shaving" is more about state of mind than defining HOW or WHAT wet shaving is. Someone (man or woman) might find themselves using a brush and soap/cream with a variety of razors and NOT be a "wet shaver"...how? I think the choice to CALL it wet shaving vs just shaving is the first step in turning the mundane task into something more...possibly even a way to open the doors to a new hobby. Similarly, everyone cooks food at some point in our life but most people don't call themselves COOKS, and fewer will go so far as to identify themselves as armature CHEFS. But those who DO assign themselves a title in respect to their ability to cook are clearly more serious about the task and endeavor to make it more enjoyable.

As a "wet shaver" I am willing to acknowledge that I view the world of shaving (gear, techniques, products and all) differently than typical. I think the existence of on-line communities like The Shaving Cadre is key to being able to turn shaving into something more. Because typical "wet shaving" gear isn't available in stores, I needed the internet and the ability to buy on-line in order to LEARN and to access things like brushes, soap and aftershaves. You (don) mentioned several vendors but left out Whipped Dog, without Whipped Dog brushes making great quality knots and brushes available to the average guy AND him providing personal attention and advice with every purchase i dare say the wet shaving community would not be as happy or strong today. What Whipped Dog did 6+ years ago by sourcing and purchasing quality knots from Chinese manufacturers has made it possible for nearly any vendor to do the same today. I dare say that if we all had to choose between a top dollar Simpson or an "affordable" Escali brush, the community would have quite an elitist air about it (because Escali brushes are serviceable but not long lasting or particularly inspiring).

I also believe @Joe Hackett (Stirling Soap) has been a key factor in allowing Wet Shaving to expand into what it is. Does this mean everyone who is a wet shaving enthusiast has purchased Stirling Soaps? No, but having a reliable source of fantastic soaps and aftershaves in every scent imaginable HAD to play a roll. Perhaps Magards is an equally important figure because they have been a consistent source of all things wet shaving.

Over the years I have learned that there are at least 2 different types of "Wet shavers", one would consider themselves utilitarian or minimalist while the other considers him/herself a collector or hobbyist. Both can be equally as enthusiastic about all the "hobby" can offer but they each choose to invest their time and money into the hobby differently. I personally didn't come to the world of wet shaving expecting it to become all that it has in my life, but clearly I have embraced the hobby at a level and in a way few others have. In my case, I know that the hobby has allowed me to make new friends (deep friendships) AND made it more possible for me to connect with my wife and kids. My wife, 2 boys and oldest daughter (and soon to be my youngest daughter) have all embraced various aspects of wet shaving and have enjoyed being able to share my excitement about collecting vintage gear. Have I spent a lot of money on the hobby? YES. Has it been worth it? I think so.

Now that I have progressed from being a user to a maker of soaps, I see soaps in a different light than I once did. I spend more time playing with various formulations and collecting scents I think i might enjoy than I do buying more soaps. I have a better appreciation for the creativity and ability being shown by some makers and I applaud their ability to produce soaps with unique character. I have definite opinions about what makes a good shave soap and what is hype ...so I find I look at all the different brands/soaps more critically than i once had.

I could go on and on but I won't. I'll just say that I see Wet Shaving as a hobby with endless potential for enjoyment and a place for everyone to belong. Because I see it as a hobby I don't question the desire to collect or seek new stuff, I simply view it (wet shaving) as a journey of experiences. Seen this way, wet shaving turns every day into an opportunity to experince new things ...or perfect old ways.
 
Soap Thing said:
I have noticed a lot of trends, good and bad. Shaving soap artisans are many and they’re everywhere, which is a good thing I think. Most any scent or formula you can think of, somebody has it for you to buy. There are countless brush makers hand making brushes, truly talent craftsmen who are passionate about their trade. Precision Razors that are machined to tolerances that rival the aviation industry, and lots of them. The options and choices are nearly limitless. All of this is good for the market and the hobby.

One thing I think is a serious problem is that it’s so easy and so tempting to dive head first down the rabbit hole. For some, this hobby basically amounts to a drug addiction. Numerous people have talked to me personally and mentioned that if they used a different soap every day it would take them more than a year to use them all just once. And it bothers them. I myself have purged my den a couple times of hardware and software that simply became pointless because I had so much of it. Brushes and razors stopped being tools and started becoming trinkets. It was a serious problem.

I’m not trying to ruin everybody’s day. But I do think this one problem carries almost as much weight on the scale as all the positive trends combined.

I have to wonder, what fuels this fire? How did we get here? And where are we going?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Pretty much sums up my thoughts. It's a great time to be a wet shaving hobbyist, but beware FOMO and the Paradox of Choice. I was what I considered a moderate hobbyist from 2014 through 2020, around 20 soaps, 10 razors, 10 brushes. My wife actually encouraged me to turn it into a full-on hobby when I started my YouTube channel late last year. While I'm not spending money I don't have or anything, it has been harder to justify getting rid of things, particularly hardware. People seem to find comparison videos useful, so there are popular razors that I'm hesitant to get rid of as they might come in handy for future comparisons.
 
CBLindsay said:
One thing that struck me after reading your post @dangerousdon was that by posting it to an online forum you are in a sense speaking to the choir, those who have gone further down the path than the general public. Has "wet shaving" gone mainstream, and if so, what was the catalyst? The answer to this question really depends on our perspective and how we define terms like wet shaving. Personally, I think CALLING the otherwise mundane daily task "wet shaving" is more about state of mind than defining HOW or WHAT wet shaving is. Someone (man or woman) might find themselves using a brush and soap/cream with a variety of razors and NOT be a "wet shaver"...how? I think the choice to CALL it wet shaving vs just shaving is the first step in turning the mundane task into something more...possibly even a way to open the doors to a new hobby. Similarly, everyone cooks food at some point in our life but most people don't call themselves COOKS, and fewer will go so far as to identify themselves as armature CHEFS. But those who DO assign themselves a title in respect to their ability to cook are clearly more serious about the task and endeavor to make it more enjoyable.
Click to expand...
Some really good stuff here Chris. I do understand that perception is nine tenths of the law...oh, wait...that's something else. 🤪
 
I believe the hardest part of keeping control and not purchasing everything is the FOMO. There are many times that I have almost pulled the trigger on a new razor, only to ask myself how is this going to make my shaves better than I have now? But then there is the school of thought that it doesn't have to be better, but just a different feel that helps keep the hobby interesting. Could I get rid of all my razors except for one or two? Yes. Will I? No. I have some razors that I might use once a year, but I still have them. And who knows, maybe one day I will get another razor or two.

For me though, the hardest part is the software. There are so many scents out there that unless you can go somewhere like a Maggards, you have to either buy everything that you might be interested in or have generous friends who can send you a sample. I think that if more of these types of businesses start opening up, then we may be able to say that this will truly be heading towards being mainstream. As it is, we are still outliers and that is ok.
 
For me, my journey, at least with hardware, has been similar to when I was buying guitars. I was always trying to step up in quality, looking for the elusive "best" option, but always appreciating how much variety was at my fingertips. But then, I eventually did find my "Excalibur", and as soon as I did that was all I wanted to use. I never thought all my razors would take a back seat to just one of them, but they have, and I sometimes feel a little wistful when I see the others just sitting in the drawer. But any time I have gone back and forced myself to use one of them, even for old time's sake, the experience is just not as pleasant as my number one,

As for soaps, I am buried in them. I have more that I will ever use in my lifetime. Soap and splash sets, if I were to just keep the matching ones, would still be more than I could use up in a decade. Going into lockdown and working from home has actually slowed down my usage, so hopefully things will return to normal soon and I will be motivated once again to shave every couple days.


27 APR 06.png
 
Ah, early '50's Martin D body with an Adirondack red spruce top, that's my "dream" guitar.
 
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