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Art of Shaving Store Closings

dangerousdon

dangerousdon

"I am Udderly Insufferable”
Veteran
Concierge Emeritus
Tried to find out more info on the topic...but all the articles I found were pretty much like this...


I find this interesting for a couple of reasons. First of all...I am not a huge fan of Art of Shaving. They made a really good tallow based soap for a while there. Then got away from that. Their creams are pretty good (if that is your thing), but really expensive. Their hardware in the store (mostly Mekur razors and a few other things) are so over priced that you are likely to find the same item on Amazon for almost half as much. Sure, you can go in and get a shave done by an "experienced professional," with a Mach 3 cartridge razor. I get what they were trying to do...create a luxury shaving product and retail space that offers shaving services that will appeal to a large group of men. But this article really drives the nail into what most of us have understood for a while. The wet shaving community wants something genuine.

A quick observation of the area that I live in...local "barber shops" (you all know what I mean) have added shaving services to the menu. A couple of salons her in the area provide straight razor shaves now. My Barber Shop (an actual barber shop) has been providing straight shaves for quite a while now. Another business that is by appointment only has been straight shaving his clients for over 20 years now. And in the last few years...there is is this chain that has popped up that cuts hair and shaves also (albeit some ridiculous seven step shave process that takes like an hour or more)...not sure what they use to shave. And that is what I have observed! I am sure their are a bunch of other smaller businesses around town that are shaving also.

My point is....shaving is obviously growing (at least in my area) but P&G has decided to scale back on what I assume are stores losing money. It's just interesting/

Meanwhile...P&G keeps buying up small brands...like Billie (a female grooming brand available by subscription).

www.forbes.com

Why P&G Is Buying Billie, A Growing Women’s Razor Startup

Consumer products giant Procter & Gamble is planning to purchase Billie, a growing subscription-based grooming brand targeting women. The stakes are higher than ever.
www.forbes.com www.forbes.com

It's all just interesting.
 
dangerousdon said:
Tried to find out more info on the topic...but all the articles I found were pretty much like this...


I find this interesting for a couple of reasons. First of all...I am not a huge fan of Art of Shaving. They made a really good tallow based soap for a while there. Then got away from that. Their creams are pretty good (if that is your thing), but really expensive. Their hardware in the store (mostly Mekur razors and a few other things) are so over priced that you are likely to find the same item on Amazon for almost half as much. Sure, you can go in and get a shave done by an "experienced professional," with a Mach 3 cartridge razor. I get what they were trying to do...create a luxury shaving product and retail space that offers shaving services that will appeal to a large group of men. But this article really drives the nail into what most of us have understood for a while. The wet shaving community wants something genuine.

A quick observation of the area that I live in...local "barber shops" (you all know what I mean) have added shaving services to the menu. A couple of salons her in the area provide straight razor shaves now. My Barber Shop (an actual barber shop) has been providing straight shaves for quite a while now. Another business that is by appointment only has been straight shaving his clients for over 20 years now. And in the last few years...there is is this chain that has popped up that cuts hair and shaves also (albeit some ridiculous seven step shave process that takes like an hour or more)...not sure what they use to shave. And that is what I have observed! I am sure their are a bunch of other smaller businesses around town that are shaving also.

My point is....shaving is obviously growing (at least in my area) but P&G has decided to scale back on what I assume are stores losing money. It's just interesting/

Meanwhile...P&G keeps buying up small brands...like Billie (a female grooming brand available by subscription).

www.forbes.com

Why P&G Is Buying Billie, A Growing Women’s Razor Startup

Consumer products giant Procter & Gamble is planning to purchase Billie, a growing subscription-based grooming brand targeting women. The stakes are higher than ever.
www.forbes.com www.forbes.com

It's all just interesting.
Click to expand...


I'd imagine from a corporate perspective, a large-scale barbershop wouldn't do well. Imagine if your local barber expanded the shop, adding 2 extra barbers and began stocking a large number of niche supplies. That would be a huge risk. AOS doesn't do haircuts, do they? So in this scenario, your new mega-barber would stop cutting hair and put all of their eggs in the shaving basket. Finally wouldn't laws on employee health insurance become a thing for the once mom and pop barber?

I don't know, just playing devil's advocate. I imagine adding a shave to your services is a lot easier to maintain than doing all AOS does. I also agree they absolutely went the wrong direction. Authentic is a huge deal with people wanting to relive / revive an age-old hobby. Noone ever asked for cheap plastic and pinstripes... There's enough of that in their latest 18-blade cartridge. I feel like they were trying to cash in, and in the process corrupt, a noble hobby. My 2¢.

Also, I predict that salon with the complicated hour-long shave routine will stop doing that in no time. I picture it hurting their bottom line (time, staff, who knows what laundry list of supplies). If I'm going to have someone shave my face, it's for the authentic experience.
 
Several years ago (while still using the awful cartridge razors) I picked up a travel set on sale for $15 from Macy’s online. It was sandlewood preshave oil, shaving cream, aftershave balm, and a small badger hair brush (worst brush I have ever used). I never could figure out what was so great about their products, especially with the prices they charge In their stores.
 
I agree. I never could justify buying their products over a company like Stirling, M&M, Razorock, and now CBL since I've recently tried it. I know in San Antonio it was a big deal, and now that I live near Dallas it is all over here too.
 
I think you touched on the primary driver behind the declining revenue AoS stores have been experiencing @dangerousdon, ironically its the expansion in popularity and accompanying expansion of places to get the products and services once considered ‘unique’ to Art of Shaving. Who knows if AoS is responsible for exposing the more affluent population to wet shaving or if it is just one of the many commercial enterprises that was made possible by the rise in (or return to) popularity. Perhaps it was the confluence of economic factors (Great Recession creating the need for cheaper ways to shave), the rise in environmental awareness (wastefulness of disposable anything) and a desire to embrace or return to the ways of our past.

...I think the closing of brick and mortar AoS stores was inevitable given the Amazon effect and the fact any service they offered was available at lower prices and better quality from the corner barber (or even the recent barber graduate). I liked their aftershave (scent) but never bought anything from the store.
 
mrdoug said:
Also, I predict that salon with the complicated hour-long shave routine will stop doing that in no time.
Click to expand...
I'm not so sure on that one. Getting the deluxe Italian style shave from @BarberDave is a pretty long process but it's about the experience more than just a shave. also, it's just extremely relaxing.

Dave's Barber Shop Discussion

what do they say, if you find something you love, you dont work a day in your life
theshavingcadre.com theshavingcadre.com
 
I only went 1 time to an AoS store. Gave some of their samples a smell test. Seemed like nothing really wowed me. This was after they went away from their tallow soaps and the forums didn't seem to be overly impressed with their soap re-formulation.

Also as mentioned. Everything seemed a bit overpriced.

While it was nice to have a local store that sold wet shaving supplies. I didn't think it would stay in business very long.

Not sure if they are one of the AoS stores closing. But wouldn't be surprised. Seems like a few of the stores have left my local mall over the last few years now.
 
mrdoug said:
I'd imagine from a corporate perspective, a large-scale barbershop wouldn't do well. Imagine if your local barber expanded the shop, adding 2 extra barbers and began stocking a large number of niche supplies. That would be a huge risk. AOS doesn't do haircuts, do they? So in this scenario, your new mega-barber would stop cutting hair and put all of their eggs in the shaving basket. Finally wouldn't laws on employee health insurance become a thing for the once mom and pop barber?

I don't know, just playing devil's advocate. I imagine adding a shave to your services is a lot easier to maintain than doing all AOS does. I also agree they absolutely went the wrong direction. Authentic is a huge deal with people wanting to relive / revive an age-old hobby. Noone ever asked for cheap plastic and pinstripes... There's enough of that in their latest 18-blade cartridge. I feel like they were trying to cash in, and in the process corrupt, a noble hobby. My 2¢.

Also, I predict that salon with the complicated hour-long shave routine will stop doing that in no time. I picture it hurting their bottom line (time, staff, who knows what laundry list of supplies). If I'm going to have someone shave my face, it's for the authentic experience.
Click to expand...
Well that is actually not the case people are craving that type of attention a longer shave routine is exactly what folks are looking for, AOS was never meant to be a barbershop or"emporium" of tonsorial items, it was a marketing ploy disguised in a Pseudo-Barber Cloak. Yes this was a bad idea, however to the corporate view on a large multi faceted barbershop??? well Truefitt & Hill, Penhaligons, DR Harris...These are all barbershops that have been around for more than a century. AOS tried to coat tail that, but did not have trained people, not have barbers, and forgot where they came from. I have people clamoring to pay 75-85 dollars for a 1.5 hour 3 pass hot towel shave with a real straight using the finest in shave products. It is the last bastion where guys can treat themselves to a good haircut and shave.

To those that would argue, Quick Cuts, Superclips, etc, etc sure you will pay 8.00, but you will also get an 8.00 haircut, and usually not by a barber, but by a cosmo, whom are trained to cut hair completely different. I love these places, as I fix all these bad haircuts, LOL it is free marketing for me, LOL
 
BarberDave said:
Well that is actually not the case people are craving that type of attention a longer shave routine is exactly what folks are looking for, AOS was never meant to be a barbershop or"emporium" of tonsorial items, it was a marketing ploy disguised in a Pseudo-Barber Cloak. Yes this was a bad idea, however to the corporate view on a large multi faceted barbershop??? well Truefitt & Hill, Penhaligons, DR Harris...These are all barbershops that have been around for more than a century. AOS tried to coat tail that, but did not have trained people, not have barbers, and forgot where they came from. I have people clamoring to pay 75-85 dollars for a 1.5 hour 3 pass hot towel shave with a real straight using the finest in shave products. It is the last bastion where guys can treat themselves to a good haircut and shave.

To those that would argue, Quick Cuts, Superclips, etc, etc sure you will pay 8.00, but you will also get an 8.00 haircut, and usually not by a barber, but by a cosmo, whom are trained to cut hair completely different. I love these places, as I fix all these bad haircuts, LOL it is free marketing for me, LOL
Click to expand...

I totally agree. Honestly, I think barbers could maximize profits by carrying popular shave products like pre-shave, soap, aftershave, even razors and blades. The barbershop I go to has a ton of excess space that is unused. And I understand that people go to a barbershop to get a shave or beard line-up, but when I grow out my beard I don't go by every few days to get my line-up touched up. I do my touch-ups myself, and before I got into wet shaving I would always wonder what my barber used because I liked the feel and scent of the products.

I also think that superstores would have better luck selling cheaper soaps than selling AoS products. Target for example, has remodeled their men's grooming department, and have even started carrying a few DE's, but I think they could market to a larger customer base by bringing popular brands like Razorock, Stirling, maggards, omega and so forth.
 
Patelliott said:
I totally agree. Honestly, I think barbers could maximize profits by carrying popular shave products like pre-shave, soap, aftershave, even razors and blades. The barbershop I go to has a ton of excess space that is unused. And I understand that people go to a barbershop to get a shave or beard line-up, but when I grow out my beard I don't go by every few days to get my line-up touched up. I do my touch-ups myself, and before I got into wet shaving I would always wonder what my barber used because I liked the feel and scent of the products.

I also think that superstores would have better luck selling cheaper soaps than selling AoS products. Target for example, has remodeled their men's grooming department, and have even started carrying a few DE's, but I think they could market to a larger customer base by bringing popular brands like Razorock, Stirling, maggards, omega and so forth.
Click to expand...
One of the barbershops near me sells tons of wet shaving supplies both in the shop and online. I’ve never gotten a hair cut there but I love being able to smell all the software and have a conversation about shaving with the owner.
 
DeepSea said:
One of the barbershops near me sells tons of wet shaving supplies both in the shop and online. I’ve never gotten a hair cut there but I love being able to smell all the software and have a conversation about shaving with the owner.
Click to expand...
Oh wow that is pretty nice!
 
BarberDave said:
Well that is actually not the case people are craving that type of attention a longer shave routine is exactly what folks are looking for, AOS was never meant to be a barbershop or"emporium" of tonsorial items, it was a marketing ploy disguised in a Pseudo-Barber Cloak. Yes this was a bad idea, however to the corporate view on a large multi faceted barbershop??? well Truefitt & Hill, Penhaligons, DR Harris...These are all barbershops that have been around for more than a century. AOS tried to coat tail that, but did not have trained people, not have barbers, and forgot where they came from. I have people clamoring to pay 75-85 dollars for a 1.5 hour 3 pass hot towel shave with a real straight using the finest in shave products. It is the last bastion where guys can treat themselves to a good haircut and shave.

To those that would argue, Quick Cuts, Superclips, etc, etc sure you will pay 8.00, but you will also get an 8.00 haircut, and usually not by a barber, but by a cosmo, whom are trained to cut hair completely different. I love these places, as I fix all these bad haircuts, LOL it is free marketing for me, LOL
Click to expand...
I should have prefaced my previous post by saying that I am not a businessman... I only Monday morning quarterback as one.

I absolutely can see guys looking for that experience. I didn't realize how much people pay for it, but thinking about it: by a trained barber, with quality tools, it's absolutely going to be worth it. It's a shave, it's a luxury experience, and it's a piece of history.

Not certain the mega-mart build is going to give that vibe. It's hard to tell as AoS does not provide the straight razor classic shave, and they are a cookie cutter store. Still, you could be right, maybe people wanted that, too?

Regarding the Salon... I could also be wrong... I just didn't imagine a large group of guys stalking their wives salon looking for that authentic shave experience. If so, that Salon could do well. I just figure they'd much rather go to a barber.

The salon has theoretically invested in a huge process with time, money, staff. @dangerousdon made it sound complex. Again, I would have guessed that the clientele for that authentic shave typically don't look to a beauty salon. Still, maybe you're right. It could work out well.
 
It is a balancing act. The raw costs of good quality products is not completely inexpensive, however the problem is inventory control, breakage, spoilage(if a natural product) and of course market demand. What may sound like a winner may be a complete torpedo, then it must be discounted to the point of loss. Also retailers get greedy and instead of accepting a small profit, as was the case with AOS, prices were way out of line. A standard cost +one or two is usually a good indicator and product will move. For example if a product cost $4 to make (including all hard costs of production, packaging, marketing, ingredients) then a $9-11 pricetag is fair. However some think that they can compete with tried and true and fail miserably as we tried to convey to one of our previous retail partners here on the site. AOS started with great intentions, and did offer quality barbers, and knowledgeable folks. That was one store. Low and behold guess who bought them. We all know and love them.......

Yes.... Proctor & Gamble.... the same folks who ruined Gillette, and continue to offer shaving products that are more toxic than Chernobyl, and heated DE razors for $300. It is all about controlling the narrative, by “experts” in product done as cheap as possible using the worst ingredients so they can charge the $20 price on a product that costs them pennies. It is the same old story, profit, profit, profit. Also these young upstarts think they can do it better than the Italian, British, or long term manufacturers that have been keeping the Barber, mens grooming products the same( ie Penhaligons, DR Harris, MWF , and the list goes on). The retail side can be a great addition or the sinking ship. I try to carry only what I use in my day to day Barbering operation ( Roffler, CBL, Pinaud, Ruezel, T&H etc). These are products I know, use and can recommend. Rather than hiring a minimum wage retail clerk that is paid to sell off a script, rather than experience. Too bad really as AOS was a great concept but became corrupt. This is a very interesting discussion folks. Thank you
 
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