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What is your method of preparation? Can you prep too much?

CBLindsay

I Blame Dave
Owner
Legacy
With the new videos being posted in the media section, showing the various ways our members shave, the topic of pre-shave prep has come up a few times. We all know (either through practice or by reading ANY shaving forum) that preparation for the shave is a key component of success. What constitutes proper preparation is another matter, there have been numerous debates and even a few wars started over the topic. Rumor has it the Spanish American War was actually started when opposing sides couldn't agree on whether one should use hot or cold water to soften the beard. Things reached a boiling point when a third party introduced an oil to the mix. He called it "pre-shave" oil but the other two said it was clearly for a POST shave ritual. The rest is history.

So, how do YOU prep for your shaves? Has your technique evolved? Does your prep depend on how much time or what you are using?

As seen in my recent videos, my regular prep seems pretty simple. My process is actually more involved than it might look.
  • I start by doing a nightly face lather with a synthetic brush and what ever shave soap I have relegated to shower duty. I follow my nightly lather with an aftershave splash, moisturizer, salve and/or talc...depending on what I think I need at the time.
  • I nearly always shower before I shave which means I have once again washed my face using soap and hot/warm water. Occasionally, I face lather or rub a shave soap on my face while showering but this isn't "typical"
  • Immediately before shaving I will splash cool water on my face. I used to use a pre-shave soap (Musgo Glyce or one I have made) at this time too but I don't always do that now. Whether I use a pre-shave soap or not depends on whether I have one handy or not. I usually wash my hands to remove the hair pomade that remains on my hands before splashing water on my face.
  • I face lather most of the time so I consider this part of my prep. Over time my face lathering has become more efficient so the amount of time spent face lathering before shaving has decreased.
  • Since I usually strop my razor the night before (when I set out my gear and do my face lather) I am able to immediately start shaving. If I have note stropped my razor I will do it while I have lather on my face, extending the time the lather sits on my face prior to shaving. *This step is VERY common among straight shavers and is somewhat reminiscent of the techniques used by old school barbers.
  • Between passes I will rinse with/splash on cold water before lathering up again. Out of habit, I will "lather" the brush on my face again before finishing with paintbrush strokes.
  • Post Shave I will rinse with cool/cold water, rub on some alum, splash on my special witch hazel and apply my aftershave of the day. I may or may not apply a balm or salve, it depends on mood more than anything (I generally dislike rich balms and oily salves). I like to use talc applied with my horse hair brush but my face is usually still too wet with aftershave to apply talc ...OR I have left my AS in the secret lair and can't put on talc because I still need to put on AS.
I consider the entire process, including how I treat my face at night, part of my process and recommend others do too. I have tested and proven to myself that nightly lathers improve the quality of shaves I get in the morning. I also know that, other than my shower, hot water leads to more irritation than it does an improved shave.

Can you prep too much? I think the answer is YES. As I learned and evolved I began to notice that lathering too long or leaving the lather on my face too long seems to swell my skin and cause "rough" spots that feel like stubble. While this may not actually prevent me from achieving a good shave, I end up trying to shave stubble that isn't there and that leads to irritation or frustration. Over time I have learned where this usually happens and have learned to discern the difference between stubble and rough skin. I think the benefit of a hot towel prep is that it softens the beard and stimulates sebum without overhydrating the skin in the process. If I enjoyed the hot towel I might be inclined to incorporate it into my process.

Since I spend most of my time shaving for work (at 5:30 am) and my attitude is Git er done. My prep routine allows a nice mix of efficiency and efficacy and works well for me. If I were giving advice to a shaver who is having difficulty getting the results they want I would say they should error on the side of "over-prepping" and incorporate an evening lather as appropriate.

What say you?
 
So I use lukewarm water throughout my shave. Only do a cold rinse.

But anyways answering the pre-shave part. I shower, do a face wash with an apricot scrub soap, then right before washing my hair I have glycerin soap bar that I keep in the shower I wash my face and leave the lather on until it is time to rinse out shampoo, and soap off my body. I then proceed to start shaving right when I get out of the shower, after putting on underwear (I fear dropping something). When I record videos I put on gym shorts and a tshirt too.
 
I usually shave at night, so my routine has evolved to the following:

1. Make my lather in a bowl with my synthetic brush.
2. Put lather on my face using circular strokes, followed by paintbrush to cover all areas.
3. Soak a babrer's towel in hot water, then wring it out and let it cover my face from the nose down. I let this sit for 5 minutes.
4. Use cold water to rub into any remaining lather, making a light sheen over my face.
5. Reapply lather with the brush, again starting with circular strokes progressing to paintbrush.
6. I shave with cold water, and I do not rinse after each pass, I just add more lather.
7. Apply styptic to any weepers after all passes are complete, then rinse with cold water after about a minute.
8. Rub remaining lather into my skin.
9. If needed, apply aftershave splash

If I shave in the morning after a shower, the only thing I do differently is skip the lather and towel. Instead I wash my face with some goat's milk soap and leave my face wet as I dry off the rest of my body. I don't get before a shave though, unless I am going to film it, lol!
 
My prep is super simple. I take a shower, and wash my face with bar soap. That is all.

A shower is pretty mandatory. There have been a few times I have shaved, when I didn't shower, and it usually didn't go well.
 
There were a couple of conversations in the past that I followed which covered this pretty intensively. The result, after all the kerfuffle was done was that three things are required to soften the whiskers: water, heat and an acidic component. Generally, if you shave right after showering, this meets all the criteria. Since I physically can't shave right out of the shower, I was forced to ad-lib a bit; this is what I came up with.

I don't have running water in the room where I shave, so it's all done through a hot water kettle and a stone bowl. On shave days, I'll get up, start the kettle (it takes about 20 minutes to get to boiling), fold up my face towel into the stone bowl, spray a few sprays on the soap to bloom it, (I don't drown my soap to bloom it. Generally 3-5 sprays is more than enough) and put some water (cold/room temperature) in my lather bowl to soak the brush, should it be a natural hair brush. Then its the 100yd walk to the showers.

I make sure I wash my face in the shower...that's really the only thing of note as it pertains to shaving. I do my dental hygiene routine after my shower, not before. I've done it for over 30 years like this...don't see a reason to change it now. LOL

Once I get back to the room, I immediately turn off the kettle and pour the almost boiling water over the towel into the bowl, topping it off with the water that the brush was soaking in to temper it a bit. I let that sit for a few minutes while I moisturize my leg (have to do so after the burn I sustained last fall), then put pants, socks and my boots on. (habit now after almost skewering my foot with a dropped square point straight razor) I leave my shower shirt on.

On days I'm not making a video, the very first thing I do is start up my iPod with some music. Then, I lather up the soap, getting it to the consistency that I like, and lather up my face. Then the towel comes out of the bowl, generally almost too hot to grab. I wring the water out as best I can and wrap my face for about 2-3 minutes or until the towel has reached room temperature. I'll rub the lather that's left on my face in. That's generally the last time that hot water is involved in the shave, outside of the rinses in between passes, which by that time the water has cooled considerably.

If I'm using a straight, I'll usually strop it the night before, or, will strop it after applying lather and before the towel application.

Post shave, I'll rinse one last time, wet the alum and rub all over any areas that I shaved. I let the alum sit on my face while I clean up. (get soap off of my wipe sponge, clean the tub of soap of the remaining proto-lather, post-shave stropping) Once that's all done, I'll take the towel I used for my pre-shave soak, and using the opposite side I used on the lather, wipe my face off of the alum. The towel has cooled dramatically down by this time and is quite cold on the face. I make sure I get the alum off, then apply witch hazel. While that's drying, I finished getting dressed, come back and apply aftershave splash, then balm on top, and finish with whatever the frag of the day is. I don't typically use talc, but have a bottle of Clubman talc when I'm in the mood for it.

That's generally it...there might be a deviation here and there, either due to equipment or absent-mindedness, but it generally stays the same.
 
I’m a morning shaver.

4 times a week my prep begins with a hot shower.

- Brush is dampened only enough to load it, so the loaded soap stays in a dryer, stickier form, very little lather is built on the puck

- Lather is build almost entirely on my face, which I re-wet, then add drops of water as I build and work them in

- The lathering process probably takes 1-3 minutes depending on the soap and how far I want to push it, which is 1-3 minutes of additional hydration of the face

- Between passes, I re-wet the face, not only to remove any cut stubble remaining, but to continue hydration

- When the shave is completed, my face gets a complete warm water wash, then I take out all the remaining lather from the brush and “lather soak” my face with it, thoroughly massaging it into all shaves areas, then let it sit for at least a minute while I clean my gear

- The lather soak soap is removed by a cold water rinse

- If I have cuts or some decent burn, I’ll apply alum at this time, let sit for about 30 seconds, then cold water rinse again

- While my face and hands are damp (not soaked) I will then apply a preshave oil occasionally, let that sit for 10-20 seconds

- Lastly I will apply my AS splash or balm, preferably still with moistened/damp hands and face.

Alternatively 3 times a week my prep begins with a simple face wash and wetting the skin to be shaved. Which probably comes out to a couple minutes of initial hydration.

- Follow same steps as above.
 
I'm a night shaver. I do dirty work and don't want to go to bed all sweaty and covered in dirt/grease/whatever, so I shower before bed. That is pretty much my prep. Shower and wash my face with soap.
I've tried shaving in the morning, but if I don't have a shower I have to hot towel or something or else it tugs and pulls pretty bad no matter what I shave with.

So basically hydration is the key to any prep for me. Generally solved with a shower. I tried pre-shave oils when I first started, but saw no real benefit from them. (At least not from the few that I tried.)
 
I'm a night shaver. I do dirty work and don't want to go to bed all sweaty and covered in dirt/grease/whatever, so I shower before bed. That is pretty much my prep. Shower and wash my face with soap.
I've tried shaving in the morning, but if I don't have a shower I have to hot towel or something or else it tugs and pulls pretty bad no matter what I shave with.

So basically hydration is the key to any prep for me. Generally solved with a shower. I tried pre-shave oils when I first started, but saw no real benefit from them. (At least not from the few that I tried.)
There has been a lot of consensus on the general ineffectiveness of pre-shave oils. At least in as much as they don't do much to replace need to proper WET preparation. I suspect if I were to wet prep very well I might be able to shave with just a layer of oil applied to my face for lubrication.
 
There has been a lot of consensus on the general ineffectiveness of pre-shave oils. At least in as much as they don't do much to replace need to proper WET preparation. I suspect if I were to wet prep very well I might be able to shave with just a layer of oil applied to my face for lubrication.

Given my shavette and water only shave a little while back, I’d say so. I was only working with moderate hydration though still sub par. It was only a little uncomfortable
 
There has been a lot of consensus on the general ineffectiveness of pre-shave oils. At least in as much as they don't do much to replace need to proper WET preparation. I suspect if I were to wet prep very well I might be able to shave with just a layer of oil applied to my face for lubrication.

A good one may work better with proper hydration, but I was still new to it at the time and was just using some cheap stuff that was given to me. They actually seemed to break down my lather a bit. Although, in all honesty, it could have been down to my inexperience at the time as well.
The few things I have figured out in the last 4 or 5 years of wetshaving is that I definitely need proper hydration of my whiskers, 2 passes is enough for my face to prevent irritation, and most non-tallow soaps don't work for me.
Well..... Those things and that I actually enjoy shaving now.
 
I'm pretty much in the same boat as KJ...shower then shave. I used to use a pre-shave oil...but found that it was actually counter-productive. But after reading your post Chris...I may try a night lather. Thanks for the post!
 
I am a simpleton and mostly shave at night. Hot shower, bar soap to the face. Then hit the sink, splash a bit of water, face lather and go.

Sometimes it’s a morning shave. Same routine minus the shower.
 
I actually stopped using a pre-shave oil for a while, but went back to it because I get slightly better results with it.

My prep:
- I am a morning shaver. It gets my day started on the right foot.
- If I am using a natural hair brush I start it soaking.
- I take a warm (not hot) shower in which I wash my face with artisanal soap.
- At the end of my shower I put my face in the spray to get a bit of extra hydration right at the end.
- I shave in cool water, so I start the sink filling for the shave after drying off.
- I use some of the cool water to wet my face again.
- I put just a few drops of pre-shave oil in my wet hands, rub them together a bit, then apply to my wet face making sure that it is spread evenly and thinly.
- I then build my lather in a bowl and apply with paintbrush strokes.

If you do use pre-shave oil, use it sparingly since it can kill your lather if used too heavily.
 
I am normally a morning shaver and my prep varies by the gear that I am using. I almost always shower first. If I am using a boar, it soaks while I shower. Badgers get soaked after I get dry while I am putting clothes on and getting out the rest of my gear. Synthetics just get a little running water in them. I wet my face again so that it is just moist, then I lather. If I am using a straight, I apply some lather to my face then do 20 laps just to burnish the edge. Then go back and reapply. Then start the shave. When I use something that doesn't require stropping, I just apply and go.
 
My prep:

[list type=decimal][*]Hot shower with facial scrib[*]Brush soaking[*]make lather[*]wet face[*]apply a small amount of lather[*]hot towel[*]lather applications ( rinse between passes )[/list type=decimal]
 
Shower with bar soap face wash.
Wet face then build my bowl lather. Will occasionally hand apply some less than favorite cream or soap here.
Finish building lather on face for a couple minutes. Enjoying the scent and feel of the soap and brush on my face.
Shave, rinsing and reapplying lather between passes.
 
I've stuck with face lathering for quite some time now. It seems like face lathering is the best way to prep the hair for the blade. As far as over-prep, I suppose someone could dwell beyond a reasonable amount of time doing it but I would say at least in my case, a shower followed by 2 to 3 minutes of building the lather with a brush on the face is all I need.
 
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