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straights,grinds, and beards

novicewetshaver

novicewetshaver

Sr. Shave Member
So i was watching barberdaves video this morning and got me thinking, how exactly do you find the right grind for your beard when using a straight a razor? Do certain grinds do better for certain types of beards and how can you figure out what type of beard/stubble you have? i think i my stubble is on the coarser side, but i could be wrong. Any thoughts would be greatly apreaciated, thanks
 
I think it’s more user preference than matching grinds to beard types. Different grinds feel and sound different to some folks. As long as the razor is properly sharpened and maintained, and you use good technique, it shouldn’t matter much. That’s my 2 cents.
 
All things being equal with regard to keenness, a true full wedge has a bit higher moment of inertia and would theoretically cut through heavy beard better and are thought to retain their edge a bit longer. Also they produce very little audio feedback. (Silent but deadly?) a lot of razors called wedges are actually 1/4 hollows, but they perform pretty much the same.

Half hollow razors are Far easier to maintain than full hollow and do provide some flex while in use.

Full hollow razors are the most common and are the least forgiving of the razors in use, particularly when heavy beards are concerned. This due largely due to the thinness of the edge deforming slightly as it requires input from the user to move the razor through the stroke and the resulting oscillation of the edge. These blades are also much easier to achieve an acceptable edge
 
IME, its gonna be about the edge and your comfort with the size, weight and balance of a razor regardless of grind.

Each grind has its pros/cons but minor compared to the bevel set and edge finish.

I recommend trying out an example of each at the 6/8s size.
 
IMO, Preference after trying many.
It's more of what you enjoy using.
I don't think a beard type or how thick or thin your whiskers are has anything to do with it.
I prefer a 1/2 hollow to an extra hollow grind at 13/16 in size and my whiskers are tough and gray.
But this is after testing and playing with a couple of hundred razors.
It doesn't take that many to test but I just can't help myself.
 
Everything that Rich indicated is spot on, with adding is that the heavier grinds do make a difference on very coarse hair simply because of weight. Also the angle of attack will be different across the grinds, as well as the way you hone them. A wedge is going to be honed a bit different, and to much success in a different medium. Although I use dilucot with a trans ark finish on most of my razors, for a heavy grind I use my Shaptons. The only other thing is that a FBH (Full bellied hollow) is the most finicky in regard to safety, lateral movement and Angle of Attack, the hardest
To hone, and can give you a REAL BAD day. As everyone has mentioned you will find favorites and with time and skill you will find your sweet spot, try them all, don’t get shoehorned into 5/8, 6/8, 7/8, 8/8. Also try razors that have been gone on different mediums, as your face will also tell you which one of those best fits your face

As a professional I shave tons of types of beards, hence having multiple straight to use in the shop. The grind Does make a difference. For instance I have a gentleman who’s beard is so coarse that a full or quarter hollow in 5/8, 6/8, and sharp enough to slice space/time, bounces right off his whiskers, Yet when I take a Full Wedge 8/8 that I cannot shave myself with, slice like butter and give a DSBBS shave

So “long story long”. ALL factors of a straight are factors, you need to find the combo that works for you.
 
I’ve spent a lot of time reading the libraries of the forums that have such available. Next to nothing exists in them about grind matching to beard type. The long notable persons say nothing, but there’s always a “greener” that wants to start something.
 
Longhaultanker said:
I’ve spent a lot of time reading the libraries of the forums that have such available. Next to nothing exists in them about grind matching to beard type. The long notable persons say nothing, but there’s always a “greener” that wants to start something.
Click to expand...
That’s because most of those folks shave one face.. their own LOL
 
BarberDave said:
That’s because most of those folks shave one face.. their own LOL
Click to expand...
This is likely very true. You are the only professional barber I’ve come across on the forums in the last six and a half years. But still, people do write, and sometimes write much in the forums on things they want to belabor. Yet there is near nothing on the grind / beard type relationship. I’ll stop before I belabor the point. 😂
 
I think certain designs/grinds were marketed for certain beard types, but I imagine it mostly comes down to personal preference. You could argue beard type affects preference, but that would be difficult to really verify.
Honing and stropping are also an important part of how a razor shaves.
 
Longhaultanker said:
I’ve spent a lot of time reading the libraries of the forums that have such available. Next to nothing exists in them about grind matching to beard type. The long notable persons say nothing, but there’s always a “greener” that wants to start something.
Click to expand...
I'm drawing a blank slate on the name so maybe someone else will remember...
There was a company that put a letter/number code on the razors they made to let you know that a certain razor was ground for heavy beards/ sensitive skin, and other such combinations. So at least one company in the past tried to make a little extra money on such a thing.
It would take me too long to did through my razors and find one or three with these codes on them so I'm not going to look.
 
I had always been on the 'The grind doesn't matter if the razor has good geometry and is properly honed' team, but I also did realize that I had no factual evidence to support that stance, as I only shaved one face. Though I have given other people straight shaves, I had never actually thought that someone who had shaved hundreds of faces might have a different read on grinds, though it seems rather obvious now.
 
Most useful information already provided. Additionally (all edges being the same) ultra thin grinds like that on a 14 Fili are less efficient than a heavy bellied, Sheffield or Thiers style ground razor on tough dense beard and sensitive skin, at least for me. Ultra thin has the tendency to flex, skip and jump even with the added weight of a Fili.

1/2 hollow and beefier grinds tend to be a fraction less keen due to larger edge radiuses. My observations are un-cited and based on sample of 1 user.
 
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