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Starting Over and Trying to Improve

J

Joshua223

Jr. Shave Member
Feel kind of like I'm starting over since I'm shaving daily now and really trying to get better. I usually have a beard, so shaving usually consisted of quickly cleaning up my neck. Decided to go clean shaven for a while. I don't think I've really spend enough time consistently shaving to REALLY get good at it. Maybe I'm just bad at it, but I feel like I'm not getting the shaves I should be. I usually use Thayers because AS with alcohol is brutal. Focusing more on reducing pressure. Bought a razor with a Maggard OC head and I feel like it may be a little easier to use than my older razors. Seems like after the first pass, I don't get much closer if I do another pass unless I shave ATG and that causes a ton of irritation and tiny nicks that sometimes don't show immediately.

I want to get back to using straights, but I'm mostly using a DE right now to be more consistent. I figure if I bounce back and forth too much, it will be counterproductive. Open to suggestions and advice!
 
Couple of things my friend. When you are shaving with a DE, I would try this. Run your razor under cold water and when you rinse it, use cold water as well. Opening up your pores with a hot shower or hot compress is definitely good - and using the cold razor has shown results with some folks with the same issues you have experienced.

Also, along with the witch hazel, look for a post shave oil (CBL caries some, as well as Zingari man and Grooming Dept). You can add a few drops of this in with your Witch Hazel. Or try a skin food aftershave - same principle - these don’t contain alcohol.

I would keep to one pass until you get passed the irritation.
 
Open comb razors tend to feel a bit more aggressive than straight bar razors.

When you say you don't get any closer on subsequent passes...... what are your subsequent passes? Are you doing another WTG pass, or are you doing across the grain (XTG) passes? When I started I would do WTG, then XTG (nose to ear), XTG (ear to nose) and that was it. I got comfortable with those passes before I attempted an ATG pass. You should note some reduction each time you change and come at the whiskers from a different direction.

I concur with Brian, that you should add some other type of post shave, aside form just the witch hazel. I like CBL's post shave oil. It soaks in quickly and doesn't leave your face oily. But something easier to try would be just a balm, post shave milk, or tonic. You can get Nivea Sensitive balm at lots of stores locally. I'm not a huge fan of most balms because some can be on the heavier side. Nivea's is lighter and nice. I personally love CBL's post shave tonic. It's perfect.
 
Congrats on starting again…and making the (right) choice to go clean shaven! 😉👍

Don’t forget that passes can be fiddled with too. There are also some areas on my face that I can’t go ATG without some irritation as well, I had to come up with combination passes that gave me a similar result without the unpleasant parts. For me, in those spots, a hybrid pass somewhere between XTG and ATG has worked best.
 
Spider said:
I personally love CBL's post shave tonic. It's perfect.
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As a post shave item I would completely agree on this point. It is a wondrous thing

August West said:
Remain consistent with your set-up for about a month,
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This is also a great start. Allowing yourself to be the main variable will let you know how to positively effect technique.
 
I find that a well honed straight razor or quality shavette style razor provides the better shave with minimal irritation (unless I totally botch a shave, then the pain can be significant). Even so, I don't get much irritation (anymore) from most of my DE shaves. Straight or DE I regularly do 3 passes including an ATG pass as well as some "buffing" and touch ups to address some odd growth pattern areas. I typically face lather and use a variety of "average" or better soaps and follow with either witch hazel or CBL tonic. I DO use a post shave oil but not everyday, and when I do use it I will also use tonic or WH.

Things you can try to help avoid excess irritation while still getting a satisfyingly close shave ...
  1. Use/rinse with cold water between passes and after the shave.
  2. Be sure to stretch your skin some. You can wrap a cloth around your finger for more grip.
  3. Hold the razor near the very end of the handle, this can help reduce pressure.
  4. Lock your wrist during the pass. This really helps with keeping technique consistent.
  5. "ride the cap". rotate the razor a little so the cap of the razor makes more contact with your skin than the safety bar does. *this might reduce the razor's efficiency though, which can make you feel like you should push harder. Another way to think of this is to error on the side of rotating the handle away from your face rather than pulling the handle too close to your face. Each razor is a little different so the sweet spot for one razor may not be the same as for others.
  6. Use focused "buffing" or partial passes to clean up where needed rather than adding another full pass. Blade Buffing, Gillette slide etc are techniques you can try out to help clean up.
  7. Avoid being tentative, when you move the razor do it with a certain amount of speed/momentum...tentative strokes usually result in variable blade-to skin contact and more pressure being used.
  8. Try face lathering, it can help prep the skin and beard for a good shave. If you are already face lathering try doing less of it (bowl lather some then finish on the face).
  9. If you regularly shave in the morning, try adding a face lather/wash followed by aftershave (or tonic/oil/balm etc) at night. I found that doing a good face lather/wash in the evening helped my improve my lathering technique AND made my skin less prone to irritation in the morning.
Since you have used a straight razor before, you know a good shave is about keeping your skin taught, having a proper blade angle and maintaining proper pressure (or lack of).
 
Hi Joshua.
A lot of great info/posts given for sure and I agree on most. Of course, some people can never get to the point of no irritation because of skin types and skin issues but...

I think a solid bar razor will do you much better. Also, recommend an adjustable so you can start low and work your way up every couple shaves until you feel it's too much. Then back it off one. I enjoy the black beauty I recently picked up but I bet most any adjustable will work well for you. Be sure you're using a quality shave soap, crop, or cream and make a good slick lather. This makes so much difference some people don't realize. I too have the nonstandard pass directions. More of an X on my third and fourth pass because of my whisker growth. like a line from the center of forehead to below ear then 90 degrees from that for my fourth.

Hope you find what works for you and be sure to stick with the same equipment without changing so you learn to get along with them. Also, the type of blade matters personally to everyone so that can be an issue too.
 
Good luck Joshua. Let us know if you have any other questions. We love helping new folks into the hobby!
 
Gasman said:
Hi Joshua.
A lot of great info/posts given for sure and I agree on most. Of course, some people can never get to the point of no irritation because of skin types and skin issues but...

I think a solid bar razor will do you much better. Also, recommend an adjustable so you can start low and work your way up every couple shaves until you feel it's too much. Then back it off one. I enjoy the black beauty I recently picked up but I bet most any adjustable will work well for you. Be sure you're using a quality shave soap, crop, or cream and make a good slick lather. This makes so much difference some people don't realize. I too have the nonstandard pass directions. More of an X on my third and fourth pass because of my whisker growth. like a line from the center of forehead to below ear then 90 degrees from that for my fourth.

Hope you find what works for you and be sure to stick with the same equipment without changing so you learn to get along with them. Also, the type of blade matters personally to everyone so that can be an issue too.
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Thanks. I have a Slim I was using regularly, but I'm not sure how straight the gaps are. I notice one side shaves better than the other. The Fatboy I found at a shop is stuck on 9 and it probably is needs aligning too.
I'm going to try a mild/bar head I recently got.
I do have a skin condition, but haven't seen a doctor about it yet. Using good soap seems to prevent breakouts most of the time.
My Stirling is getting low. I'll have to try something like Lisa's Natural or T&S next.
 
Was in a rush this morning, but still shaved.

Used a closed bar, milder Maggard head with Gillette Blue blade. Liked the way it shaved so I think it will be the DE I stick with for now. First modern DE handle I purchased new and it is pretty heavy, so I'll probably get something different eventually.
Since I was in a hurry I was keeping a steady pace and I think that played into @CBLindsay no7 "avoid being tentative" and may have helped some.
One quick pass and irritation was minimal, so that was good.


Still need to look into pre and/or post shave products.
 
Spider said:
If you stick with that handle, you'll get used to it, and probably find that it's no too heavy after all.
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Maybe. I think it is the biggest handle you can get, so it has some weight to it. It is a WCS handle I got, along with the two Maggard heads, from a den clearing sale recently.
 
Like a Bat, Choke up on it if it's too heavy. Some say it's best to hold a razor by the very end. This keeps the pressure down to just the weight of the razor. I'd recommend Zingari man, Declaration grooming, or the grooming dept for a better soap. Sure, Sterling is good and they have lots of scents to choose from (and low cost) but these others are better for protection and skincare IMO.
A mild razor is good. But after a while, you might find it takes more passes or it just doesn't shave as close as you want. This all depends on your whiskers. So if you can get a solid shave after a couple of weeks with only 3 passes and maybe a touchup, then stick with a mild razor. Everyone is different. Good luck Joshua.
 
Joshua223 said:
Was in a rush this morning, but still shaved.

Used a closed bar, milder Maggard head with Gillette Blue blade. Liked the way it shaved so I think it will be the DE I stick with for now. First modern DE handle I purchased new and it is pretty heavy, so I'll probably get something different eventually.
Since I was in a hurry I was keeping a steady pace and I think that played into @CBLindsay no7 "avoid being tentative" and may have helped some.
One quick pass and irritation was minimal, so that was good.


Still need to look into pre and/or post shave products.
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I really like heavier handles, I am not sure if it is just a preference or if it actually has a positive impact on the shave. I also favor bigger/fatter handles, they are WAY easier for me to hold in my fat hands. I seem to recall a conversation or two about how weight of the DE razor (head and handle) play into the shave experience...although I don't recall the details.

Regarding open comb vs closed. I think open comb razors LOOK pretty cool but I find most of them feel more aggressive than a standard closed comb. In most cases it is just me feeling the comb scraping my face but in some cases it seems to result in more irritation and nicks (like maybe my skin is more exposed to the blade). Given a chance though, I would buy open comb just because I liked the way they looked.

Good to hear you had a good shave with today's set up.
 
Gasman said:
Like a Bat, Choke up on it if it's too heavy. Some say it's best to hold a razor by the very end
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I always choke up on it, no matter how heavy or light the handle is. I always felt it was awkward holding it by the end of the handle. I feel I get more control over the pressure by choking up on it.
 
I think I saw a little improvement when trying to follow some of the advice given. Haven't ordered pre/post shave yet. I think I saw some product recommendations so I'll have to reread the posts. I may have found a couple spots I can get closer by changing the direction I shave. Guess I'll need to focus more on mapping.
 
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