Saponificio Varesino - All the Samples

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Introduction:

Thanks to the generous nature of @BarberDave I was recently treated to the opportunity to try all of the Saponificio Varesino (SV) in current production. I wanted to start a thread to post some information on the soaps as well as my own personal opinions.

Some background: SV soaps are produced in Italy. They are triple milled vegan soaps. The baseline performance of all of the soaps (and aftershaves) is excellent. A small amount of product leads to a very rich lather that feels great and is in my top tier of soaps for post-shave face feel.

My methods for sampling the soap. I got a sample pack of (nearly) all the soaps and aftershaves.


I used a scoop (free from ShaveDash) to take a small amount of soap and add it to a Captain’s Choice copper bowl.


Once the sample was pressed down into the bowl, I added a little water to bloom the soap (just enough to cover the soap).

I then used my SV Bois de Rose artisan 2.0 shaving brush to lather the sample:


I did a 3 pass shave with each sample using a Blackland Vector with either a Feather Progurad or a Kai Protouch Pink blade. If I had the matching aftershave sample, I would use 3-5 drops to finish the shave.

My thoughts on each individual sample (in alphabetical order) will follow.

 

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70th

Given Scent Description

The 70th Anniversary Collection fragrance is a modern reinterpretation of the well-known Cologne scent, with strongly creative and evocative olfactory cues. The classic citrus notes are accompanied with refreshing aquatic notes, supported by a rich and balanced green aromatic floral and rural heart. All set on a base of precious woods and amber.



My Description

Soap: Combination of some citrus and an aquatic note.

Aftershave: Starts bright and citrus then progresses to an aquatic place. Very pleasant.



Scent Strength

On the stronger side (4/5)



Lather

Seems extra rich and creamy compared to some of the others.



Post Face Feel

Skin feels light and refreshed. I get what @BarberDave is talking about when he says that his skin feels like it is “breathing” after using this soap/splash combo.



Season

Year round

Additional Notes
My dad loved this fragrance/soap so much he asked me to order it for him for his birthday.

 

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Cubebe

Given Scent Description

The characteristic fragrance features a citrusy, balsamic and aromatic top note of bergamot, lemon and white fir.

The top notes give way to a slightly floral body note with spicy hints of pepper and nutmeg.

At its base is a woody, musky and slightly amber background note of patchouly, vetiver, labdanum and benzoin.



My Description

Soap: Sweet with a hint of spicy. I find the combination cloying.

Aftershave: Get the same notes. This aftershave doesn’t progress as much through various layers as the others and stays similar to the soap.



Scent Strength

Strong (4.5/5)



Lather

Easily whips up into a beautiful lather using only a little soap.



Post Face Feel

Very nice. Lightest feeling aftershave of the bunch.



Season
Spring/Summer

 

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Cosmo

Given Scent Description

Highlights the zesty fragrance of Sicilian Citrus combined with dark and peppery spice notes of coffee, coriander and nutmeg. At its base, you'll find the timeless notes of vetiver, sandalwood and incense used throughout history in shaving and facial preparations.





My Description

Soap: hard to describe. Very unique scent that isn’t really captured by the scent note charts. Of all the samples, I used this the most, just trying to figure it out. Still don’t think I have a clue.

Aftershave: Starts bright and citrus (on what feels like a different planet than the soap), but then dries down into the same sort of mysterious scent as the soap.

Scent Strength

Modest (3.5/5)



Lather

Easy to lather. Lather is perhaps slightly less rich than the others.



Post Face Feel

Soft and Velvety (SV standard post feel).



Season

I guess year round?

 

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Desert Vetiver

Given Scent Description
A composition with warm and enveloping notes. The blend of Elemi, Incense, Orange and Artemisia flare up in the flowery, peppery, spicy heart. A multifaceted sillage of Black Pepper, Juniper Berries, Oregano and Lavander swarms towards an elegant woody background sublimated by the precious Vetiver, the fresh Cloves and the seductive notes of Amber for a fragrance with a virile and unforgettable character.





My Description

Soap: Complex, but we’ll blended soap. Get light florals and wood resting in a background of “warm, dry air”



Aftershave: A similar experience, with slightly more complex notes.



Scent Strength

Present without being overwhelming (3/5)



Lather

Tiny amount of soap yields a huge amount of luxurious lather. Really top notch performance.





Post Face Feel

Soft and supple with a bit of toner (slight skin tightening) feeling.



Season

Year round

 

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Dolomiti

Given Scent Description

The fragrance of this collection is crowned by a top note of light citrus lemon, with a hint of sage. The core is floral and definitely lavender, with a hint of cloves and black pepper. The tail notes of amber and woody vetiver, patchouli and cedar wood characterizes the personality of the perfume.



My Description

Scent is light and from the soap/lather, only get one or two notes that aren’t my favorite. From the aftershave start with that same lightness but quickly progress to something heavier and closer to a men’s designer Cologne, which isn’t My favorite. Scent sort of goes to the same place as Felce, but isn’t as strong.



Scent Strength

Light (1/5)



Lather

Slightly harder to get a good lather than the Stella Alpina and Tundra Artica



Post Face Feel

Soft and velvety (like all SV products).



Season

Late summer/Fall

 

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Felce Aromatica

Given Scent Description

This collection features a fragrance of aromatic fern which blends with the aromas of natural additives to create a fresh and intense note well-known among the traditional wet shaving community.

The Aromatic Fern fragrance blends with the aromas of natural additives, creating a fresh and intense note. It opens with the sparkling notes of Bergamot, Lemon and Tangerine. Then we come to the body, characterized by the spiciness of the Ginger root and Sichuan Pepper, all accompanied by the heady freshness of the Bourbon Geranium leaves.

The base of the fragrance is a sensual mix of amber notes, Sandalwood, Patchouli and Vetiver.



My Description
Soap and aftershave are similar in scent profile. Both have a warm, enveloping feeling. I think of a traditional masculine designer Cologne type scent when I smell this. A strong scent, but very pleasant in the right dose at the right time.


Scent Strength

Strong (4.5/5)



Lather

Very easy to make a great lather.



Post Face Feel

Soft and Velvety



Season

Fall / Spring

 

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Manna di Sicilia

Given Scent Description

The slightly citrusy top notes of bergamot and orange of the Manna di Sicilia fragrance are well balanced by aromatic notes of sage and traces of fenugreek, a prelude to a warm body note with a slight hint of honey that gives a hint of tobacco and spices, softened by floral traces of jasmine and geranium leaves.

The base note is woody and amber of patchouli, cedar wood, benzoin resin and guaico wood to make the memory of the perfume warmer and more full-bodied.



My Description

Soap: presents with one dominant note, and not one that I particularly like (never smoker who is definitely turned off by most tobacco scents).



Aftershave: Lighter and more complex scent than the soap. Get the citrus then progresses through the tobacco middle which I don’t like, then ends with a very pleasant base.



Scent Strength

Middling (2.5/5)



Lather

Similar to Dolomiti, took a little work, but so far this is the slickest of the lathers I’ve gotten yet.



Post Face Feel

So soft! More so than usual.



Season

Cooler months more Fall/Winter to me

 

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Morado

Given Scent Description

An intriguing, full-bodied and persistent masculine fragrance characterized by woody and amber notes.

The top notes present the fragrance with citrus hints of bergamot and mandarin, which enhance the aromatic and spicy heart of lavender, mint and ginger.

In the soft base notes, sandalwood, ambergris and oak moss are accompanied by the sweetness of vanilla and a slight hint of tobacco.



My Description

Rich, enveloping, warm woodsy scent with a lot of depth. Would’ve also liked to try the aftershave to get more of this fragrance. Don’t really detect the top/middle notes listed In the chart from the soap.



Scent Strength

Present and persistent but not overwhelming (4/5)



Lather

Easy to generate a rich, thick lather with lots of cushion and glide.



Post Face Feel

Very soft, feels great.



Season

Fall/Winter

 

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Mirto Di Sardegna

Given Scent Description

The scent of Mirto di Sardegna harmonizes with the aromas of natural additives, creating a woody aromatic note.

At its base are the classic fragrance notes of Sandalwood and Vetiver but its initial expression is filled with the citrus notes of lemon and lime. The heart notes are where you'll find the myrtle that this energetic fragrance is built around.



My Description

Soap: Pleasant light woodsy notes.

Aftershave: More medicinal lavender opening (don’t get the citrus personally). Then moves into the myrtle and nice light woody notes for a long lasting light and pleasant scent.



Scent Strength

Medium (2.5/5)



Lather

Rich, thick creamy. Wonderful. Easy to generate.



Post Face Feel

Great soft, velvety feeling with wonderful toning properties from the aftershave.



Season

Spring/Summer

 

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Opuntia

Given Scent Description

A fruity and aromatic fragrance with top notes of bergamot, pineapple and blackcurrant that give way to floral body notes of birch, rose and jasmine. Woody, musky and slightly amber base notes anchored by patchouli, vetiver, white musk and oak moss.



My Description

Soap: Heavy scent. Pineapple sweetness isn’t balanced by smoky notes, rather they seem to be fighting it out. Like a Creed Aventus flanker scent (similar profile but stresses different notes).

I didn’t have the aftershave sample at the time I tried the soap, and didn’t like the scent enough to use it again once I got a sample of the aftershave.


Scent Strength

Strong (4.5/5)



Lather

Easily whips up into a great lather. Find this to be a little thirstier than the others, but get rewarded by extra slickness and cushion.



Post Face Feel

Soft, supple skin



Season

Year round

 

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Stella Alpina

Given Scent Description

This collection's fragrance presents a clean, fresh fragrance crafted around the Edelweiss flower that lives in the fresh, unspoilt air of the Alps.



My Description

Soap: Slightly sweet and floral off the puck and in the bowl. Get some of the deeper herbaceous notes when on the face (basil/eucalyptus). Scent strength is light enough to keep this from being cloying.



Aftershave: scent is very similar to the soap.



Scent Strength

Lighter side (2/5)



Lather

Very easy to lather.



Post Face Feel

Normal SV awesomeness. Skin felt more plump and supple several hours later.



Season

Spring/Summer

 

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Tundra Artica

Given Scent Description

For the fragrance, we used Agar Wood - a quintessential Oud scent - to convey a feeling of open spaces, freshness and a woody perception of shrubs.


My Description

Soap : Beautiful “pencil shaving” red cedar / oud. Pleasant scent strength.



Aftershave: much more complex scent. Get citrus mostly up front then drying down to the same “pencil shavings” oud with a hint of rose. Later just get light hints of the oud.



Scent Strength

Pleasant, not overwhelming (3/5)



Lather

Easy to whip up a rich, creamy lather.



Post Face Feel

Amazing



Season

Year round

 

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Some final thoughts :

All of the SV products are quality soaps. Yes, they are expensive, but I think you’re getting your money’s worth and they should last a long time.

The soaps tend to pick one or two dominant notes from the scent profile and highlight that scent. This can be great (Tundra Artica) or not so great (Opuntia). The aftershaves are much more complex scent-wise and are truer representations of the given scent pyramids.

Here is a personal breakdown of where I landed on each soap:

Would Buy

1. Tundra Artica
2. Mirto Di Sardegna
3. Desert Vetiver
4. 70th Anniversary

On the Fence

1. Stella Alpina (Don’t love the scent, but my skin felt great after using this soap/aftershave combo)
2. Morado (Not sure this scent is in my wheelhouse, but I like it)
3. Felce Aromatica (Would use sparingly, only a few days a year, so not sure if it’s worth the investment)

Would not buy (and why)

1. Dolomiti (scent, performance of lather slightly less than others)
2. Opuntia (don’t like the scent)
3. Manna Di Sicilia (performance is great, but don’t like the scent)
4. Cubebe (Scent too cloying for me)
5. Cosmo (Scent not for me. Performance slightly less strong than others)

Some Special Shout-Outs

1. Softest post shave feel : Manna Di Sicilia
2. “Plumpest” most well hydrating : Stella Alpina
3. Longest lasting scent : Cubebe
4. Slickest and most cushion : Opuntia
5. Best “toner” feel : Mirto Di Sardegna
6. Skin feels refreshed and Alive : 70th Anniversary
7. Most unique scent: Cosmo
8. Best post shave slickness : Morado

Thanks again to @BarberDave for the soap and aftershave samples and @Antonio P for the aftershave samples. It was a great experience to get to try an entire product line in the course of 2 weeks.

Hope others find this useful and please feel free to add your thoughts and comments!

 

[GearNoir]

Great reviews and thoughts Eric! Thanks for sharing!

 

[global_dev]

Generous PiF from eric, i finally got some time to begin moving through the samples. Today i took the opportunity to perform a quick bracket of scent… I’ve actually never done that before for soaps. a quick waft and choice based on little other than a first “glance”.

This is a grouping i will need to revisit for scent once i have some coffee beans or sherbert to cleanse the palate (pretty fancy lad here)



First round winners


Second round winners

Last 2


Can’t wait to give them all a go. And see if i enjoy the opening of the scents during the lather as much as just off the nose.

 

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It’s interesting, I really don’t get much development through the scent pyramid from the soaps, just one or two dominant scents that persist for the whole shave (completely different with the Aftershaves where I do get a progression). But when you go back and watch others give their views (like this series) clearly some people are getting many different notes out of the soap. I’d be interested in your thoughts once you’ve had a chance to lather a few up.

 

[Labrecque24]

This is amazing.
I found this forum because I am interested in Saponificio to see how it compares to what I currently use.
I just joined, but have been a wet shaver for a long time.

How can I find samples of these products?

Thanks much, and have a great day

​

 

[EMG06]

This is amazing.

Thank you!

I just joined, but have been a wet shaver for a long time.

Welcome! You should head over to the Newbie section and write an introduction post, so we can get to know you better. It’s a friendly group here.

How can I find samples of these products?

The soap samples were generously donated by BarberDave to a few of us from his own personal stock; he scooped some soap off of his pucks and made little sample packs for us. (He also did a series of videos reviewing all the current SV products at that time, which are worth a watch if you haven’t seen them already.)

To get samples, I would recommend going to the Saponificio Varesino US online store and getting the aftershave sampler. That way you’ll be able to try all the scents for not much $$ before deciding on what to buy. If you keep your eyes open @Antonio P (one of the vendors here and US distributor of SV) often has deals or sample pack giveaways.

 

[Labrecque24]

Thank you!

Welcome! You should head over to the Newbie section and write an introduction post, so we can get to know you better. It’s a friendly group here.

The soap samples were generously donated by BarberDave to a few of us from his own personal stock; he scooped some soap off of his pucks and made little sample packs for us. (He also did a series of videos reviewing all the current SV products at that time, which are worth a watch if you haven’t seen them already.)

To get samples, I would recommend going to the Saponificio Varesino US online store and getting the aftershave sampler. That way you’ll be able to try all the scents for not much $$ before deciding on what to buy. If you keep your eyes open @Antonio P (one of the vendors here and US distributor of SV) often has deals or sample pack giveaways.

Thanks so much for the info!