The Shaving Cadre
Welcome to The Shaving Cadre, a forum dedicated to gentlemanly discourse about wet shaving and other topics of common interests. Membership is always free so register today and join in the fun
Lapping film advice
- Thread starter The Monkey
- Start date
My first attempt at honing was with lapping film. It is capable of providing very good edges. There are some basic things you need to know but its pretty easy to use.
Make sure you are using a FLAT surface. I used glass tile that was 12" long and 2-3" wide. Make sure the surface is clean before you apply the film. I used a razor to scrape the surface just to be certain the surface was clean and flat. The easiest way to apply the film is to spray soapy water onto the glass and onto the back of the film then apply the film to the glass. Apply the film like you would put a screen protector on your phone. Once the film is on the glass you can "squeegee" the water out from under the film until the film is stuck flat to the glass. THEN spray a little soapy water on the surface of the film and keep the surface wet but not drenched while using. It is surprising how much work can be done with film but it works best on edges that are in good condition and have a good geometry. Film is great for keeping a previously honed razor in good shape.
Once the film is properly affixed to the glass you can do edge leading strokes BUT I recommend doing only spine leading strokes so you don't cut the film. You won't need much pressure to do the job so keep a light hand. The weight of the razor is enough pressure, try not to press the blade onto the film. I suggest keeping your focus on the spine, this will ensure any pressure you do apply is on the spine, not the edge. Start with the more aggressive film and work your way to the finer films. For best results you should strop on cotton or leather between each film, this helps You also want to gently wipe the blade clean between films.
Good film works fast, you can probably get the job done by doing no more than 30 strokes back and forth (up and back equals ONE). If you make your film as wide as the blade is long you can do basic strokes without needing to do any fancy "x" strokes. The surface of the film is so uniform there is no need to do x strokes. That said, if you finished with a few x strokes it can help to remove the fin edge that forms.
I like to hold the glass plate in one hand and the razor in the other (or put one end of the plate against your stomach and hold the other end with your hand). I often do the same with my stones but this seems to work really well with film. The little bit of float helps to even out the pressure and keep the edge in good contact.
Finish on the finest film you can and make sure you keep your pressure to a minimum and the edge will turn out wicked sharp.
Make sure you are using a FLAT surface. I used glass tile that was 12" long and 2-3" wide. Make sure the surface is clean before you apply the film. I used a razor to scrape the surface just to be certain the surface was clean and flat. The easiest way to apply the film is to spray soapy water onto the glass and onto the back of the film then apply the film to the glass. Apply the film like you would put a screen protector on your phone. Once the film is on the glass you can "squeegee" the water out from under the film until the film is stuck flat to the glass. THEN spray a little soapy water on the surface of the film and keep the surface wet but not drenched while using. It is surprising how much work can be done with film but it works best on edges that are in good condition and have a good geometry. Film is great for keeping a previously honed razor in good shape.
Once the film is properly affixed to the glass you can do edge leading strokes BUT I recommend doing only spine leading strokes so you don't cut the film. You won't need much pressure to do the job so keep a light hand. The weight of the razor is enough pressure, try not to press the blade onto the film. I suggest keeping your focus on the spine, this will ensure any pressure you do apply is on the spine, not the edge. Start with the more aggressive film and work your way to the finer films. For best results you should strop on cotton or leather between each film, this helps You also want to gently wipe the blade clean between films.
Good film works fast, you can probably get the job done by doing no more than 30 strokes back and forth (up and back equals ONE). If you make your film as wide as the blade is long you can do basic strokes without needing to do any fancy "x" strokes. The surface of the film is so uniform there is no need to do x strokes. That said, if you finished with a few x strokes it can help to remove the fin edge that forms.
I like to hold the glass plate in one hand and the razor in the other (or put one end of the plate against your stomach and hold the other end with your hand). I often do the same with my stones but this seems to work really well with film. The little bit of float helps to even out the pressure and keep the edge in good contact.
Finish on the finest film you can and make sure you keep your pressure to a minimum and the edge will turn out wicked sharp.
dkeester
"TSC's Master of Bourbon"
I have some 3M lapping film from Amazon: 9 Sheet Variety Pack 3M NON PSA (.3, 1, 3, 5, 9, 12, 30, 40 and 60 microns) Lapping Microfinishing Film Aluminum Oxide (OA) 8 1/2" x 11" - - Amazon.com
It works, but I find stones to be much less fiddly. I have a cut granite floor tile that I used as the base. It works, but getting the film sheets dead flat takes some time. My attempts so far have been using edge leading strokes. Film puts a good edge on a razor, but @CBLindsay is correct that cutting the film is a thing. So far I prefer using stones.
It works, but I find stones to be much less fiddly. I have a cut granite floor tile that I used as the base. It works, but getting the film sheets dead flat takes some time. My attempts so far have been using edge leading strokes. Film puts a good edge on a razor, but @CBLindsay is correct that cutting the film is a thing. So far I prefer using stones.
I have had success on both, however the base that is used to place the film on is key. A marble bullnose slab at least 3/4 in depth or a piece of glass works well. It is a great medium to start on, however I agree with Doug and Chris, Stones are the preferred method, and in my case now that I am honing professionally a coticule with a black Ark, and Trans Ark finish are my go-to's now
MilkCrate
"I am a Milk Crate with Dreams"
The only things I can add to this.
I used a marble tile from HD 4x12”. A 2 pack was $7.
Old plastic gift card for a squeegee.
I used edge leading strokes and usually 60 laps each film.
Shiny side down.
Got really good clean edges running that progression. Then onto balsa strops for a wicked edge. It was easy to duplicate also.
I used a marble tile from HD 4x12”. A 2 pack was $7.
Old plastic gift card for a squeegee.
I used edge leading strokes and usually 60 laps each film.
Shiny side down.
Got really good clean edges running that progression. Then onto balsa strops for a wicked edge. It was easy to duplicate also.