After reading @SM29 take on the Closed Comb version, I thought I would take the time to do a review of the OC Version of which I have had and used for some months now.
SPECS:
Manufacturer: BLACKLAND RAZORS
Model: Tradere Open Comb
Material: Solid 303 Stainless Steel
Weight: 120 grams +/-5 grams - Handle 92 mm length
Agressiveness (Published) 7 out of 10 / Actual Usage 6 out of 10 ( subjective to user, I like Aggressive razors and in this case the comparison was if 1 was a Gillette Tech or Feather ASD2 and 10 was a full Hollow Straight Razor)
Price: $265.00
NARRATIVE:
Having shaved with the Tradere for a number of months, not to mention having used the original, a fair assessment of this razor can be given and reviewed. The original Tradere ( Tru-Daar-eh ) was developed between 2010 and 2010 by Richard Mason, One of the 1st pure stainless razors, along with Weber, it quickly gained good status, and reputation as a very aggressive razor and a very Heavy one. Alas, like Weber these pioneers went by the way of the Dodo in the mid 2000 teens, Thus creating a demand and almost mystical status to these razors. Both now unobtanium without a small mortgage or lung. Although it was reported to have about 1000-2000 razors made by Mason, the exact number is unknown. As of this writing if found the Original Tradere is fetching $400-up for both the safety bar and OC versions.
This is where Blackland comes in. With support and approval of Mason, Blackland reversed engineered the razor and brought it back to market. All Razors being numbered 2000 and above to give tribute to the actual unknown number of originals produced but keep the legacy going.
THE SHAVE:
As mentioned above, how aggressive and comfortable a razor can be is subjective at best for the user. Being primarily a Straight Razor shaver, my perception of aggressiveness of a razor may be far different from yours so please take that into consideration when considering the Tradere. Also as mentioned above my criteria for aggressiveness, is based on:
When doing this review, the following categories were used in my final assessment:
WEIGHT
BALANCE IN ALL SHAVING PASSES
AGGRESSIVENESS
SMOOTHNESS OF SHAVE
FIT & FINISH
ALUM TEST
PRICE
One of the biggest complaints often heard is the weight and balance, which of course will affect the final shave outcome and thus the overall review. This was an area where the original failed in many circles and forums because not enough time was spend "getting to know" the razor. It is a beast and big. It does require some experimentation to find the right balance point and angle. That being said, once found a level of shave nirvana can be achieved. It should be mentioned at this time that I fell in love with this razor back on B&B during and auction. Was able to shave with it, and missed winning it. So it was a grail razor to me, and does have some weight on my review here.
For me, the "three fingered balance point" is just in front of the knurling at the top end of the razor. This allows a very light hold pressure and allowing the razor to settle into a nice angle for a traditional WTG pass with little or not effort, as the weight of the razor literally falls down the face. Similar to the Asylum RX. As for the XTG and ATG passes, depending on you own personal face mapping, a slight movement further down the handle ( XTG ) and near the fluted end ( ATG ), allow for easy transitions and "spot on balance to achieve the shave you want.
To this author, all of the Blackland DE offerings are more aggressive than most, and I found the Tradere a bit less aggressive in the OC version than the Blackbird which I rate at an 8. So angle is critical, when matched with the weight. Early on around the chin and lip area some sushi was made as once this razor is in motion it does not stop, so if you are heavy handed, strawberry lather may be in your future for a time LOL.
Once mastered however the smoothness of the shave ( depended on your software and blade choice ) is outstanding and comparable to any of your best shaves. This razor, at least in the OC version, is not a "zombie unthinking shave" like a tech of ASD2. You need to be on your game, as although it will reward you with some of the best shaves of your life, she can be an evil mistress and remind you of who is really in control of the shave. Very similar to a straight, but with a bit of a safety level.
the Fit and Finish goes without saying and the tolerances are exact. The attention to detail is perfect. You would be hard pressed to distinguish the Blackland from the original in all aspects, very well made
The Alum test is for me to measure the overall quality of the shave in respect to also measuring the pressure used, angle of the blade, and how aggressive the shave was. So for me a good indicator of progress is getting all the bullet points of the shave correct, and once mastered and comfortable, I don't believe you find a much better OC shaver out there. I don't say this lightly as up till now the Gillette New Long Comb had far and away been the best overall, followed by the #15 Crat. Not any longer.
As most know Price is not a big factor in my reviews, as I think that in itself is subjective at best. If you feel that a razor us worth the money, then it was money well spent. However, playing Devil's advocate, $265.00 for a hunk of Stainless that holds a blade is on the high end when you can get a New for a few bucks and get arguably as good shave. This hobby is not about good sense very often and we pine after those "Grail Items" that made an impact on us. for me the money is well spent and the razor is superb in all aspects.
I do admit a bias to Blackland as a fanboy based on the fact that of the 3 razors I have they are the top
Tradere OC - #1 OC in my Den
Vector - #1 SE (feather type) and overall razor ( non straight) in my Den
Blackbird DE ( safety bar ) #1 DE razor
I am sure the DE ( gem style will be in the den soon and will probably take the #1 spot there as well.. Thank God Blackland does not make a Straight ( Yet ).....
So if you are considering the Tradere, it is well worth it in whatever configuration you determine.
SPECS:
Manufacturer: BLACKLAND RAZORS
Model: Tradere Open Comb
Material: Solid 303 Stainless Steel
Weight: 120 grams +/-5 grams - Handle 92 mm length
Agressiveness (Published) 7 out of 10 / Actual Usage 6 out of 10 ( subjective to user, I like Aggressive razors and in this case the comparison was if 1 was a Gillette Tech or Feather ASD2 and 10 was a full Hollow Straight Razor)
Price: $265.00
Having shaved with the Tradere for a number of months, not to mention having used the original, a fair assessment of this razor can be given and reviewed. The original Tradere ( Tru-Daar-eh ) was developed between 2010 and 2010 by Richard Mason, One of the 1st pure stainless razors, along with Weber, it quickly gained good status, and reputation as a very aggressive razor and a very Heavy one. Alas, like Weber these pioneers went by the way of the Dodo in the mid 2000 teens, Thus creating a demand and almost mystical status to these razors. Both now unobtanium without a small mortgage or lung. Although it was reported to have about 1000-2000 razors made by Mason, the exact number is unknown. As of this writing if found the Original Tradere is fetching $400-up for both the safety bar and OC versions.
This is where Blackland comes in. With support and approval of Mason, Blackland reversed engineered the razor and brought it back to market. All Razors being numbered 2000 and above to give tribute to the actual unknown number of originals produced but keep the legacy going.
As mentioned above, how aggressive and comfortable a razor can be is subjective at best for the user. Being primarily a Straight Razor shaver, my perception of aggressiveness of a razor may be far different from yours so please take that into consideration when considering the Tradere. Also as mentioned above my criteria for aggressiveness, is based on:
1 = Gillette Tech or Feather ASD2 on the low end and 10= Full Hollow straight razor.
It should also be mentioned that this testing and review over time was completed with Personna Lab Blue blades / Nacet Blades, and PolSilver SI. Of course YMMV as each blade can and often does skew the aggressiveness, smoothness and overall quality of the shave.
When doing this review, the following categories were used in my final assessment:
WEIGHT
BALANCE IN ALL SHAVING PASSES
AGGRESSIVENESS
SMOOTHNESS OF SHAVE
FIT & FINISH
ALUM TEST
PRICE
For me, the "three fingered balance point" is just in front of the knurling at the top end of the razor. This allows a very light hold pressure and allowing the razor to settle into a nice angle for a traditional WTG pass with little or not effort, as the weight of the razor literally falls down the face. Similar to the Asylum RX. As for the XTG and ATG passes, depending on you own personal face mapping, a slight movement further down the handle ( XTG ) and near the fluted end ( ATG ), allow for easy transitions and "spot on balance to achieve the shave you want.
To this author, all of the Blackland DE offerings are more aggressive than most, and I found the Tradere a bit less aggressive in the OC version than the Blackbird which I rate at an 8. So angle is critical, when matched with the weight. Early on around the chin and lip area some sushi was made as once this razor is in motion it does not stop, so if you are heavy handed, strawberry lather may be in your future for a time LOL.
Once mastered however the smoothness of the shave ( depended on your software and blade choice ) is outstanding and comparable to any of your best shaves. This razor, at least in the OC version, is not a "zombie unthinking shave" like a tech of ASD2. You need to be on your game, as although it will reward you with some of the best shaves of your life, she can be an evil mistress and remind you of who is really in control of the shave. Very similar to a straight, but with a bit of a safety level.
the Fit and Finish goes without saying and the tolerances are exact. The attention to detail is perfect. You would be hard pressed to distinguish the Blackland from the original in all aspects, very well made
The Alum test is for me to measure the overall quality of the shave in respect to also measuring the pressure used, angle of the blade, and how aggressive the shave was. So for me a good indicator of progress is getting all the bullet points of the shave correct, and once mastered and comfortable, I don't believe you find a much better OC shaver out there. I don't say this lightly as up till now the Gillette New Long Comb had far and away been the best overall, followed by the #15 Crat. Not any longer.
As most know Price is not a big factor in my reviews, as I think that in itself is subjective at best. If you feel that a razor us worth the money, then it was money well spent. However, playing Devil's advocate, $265.00 for a hunk of Stainless that holds a blade is on the high end when you can get a New for a few bucks and get arguably as good shave. This hobby is not about good sense very often and we pine after those "Grail Items" that made an impact on us. for me the money is well spent and the razor is superb in all aspects.
I do admit a bias to Blackland as a fanboy based on the fact that of the 3 razors I have they are the top
Tradere OC - #1 OC in my Den
Vector - #1 SE (feather type) and overall razor ( non straight) in my Den
Blackbird DE ( safety bar ) #1 DE razor
I am sure the DE ( gem style will be in the den soon and will probably take the #1 spot there as well.. Thank God Blackland does not make a Straight ( Yet ).....
So if you are considering the Tradere, it is well worth it in whatever configuration you determine.
