For those addicts of Penhaligon's English Fern, and the depression of seeing what is indeed the best Fougere to ever grace this planet fade away into unobtanium there is a shining light. English Fern Shave Soap, talc, and aftershave have all gone by way of the Dodo, and the EdT is becoming harder and harder to find, creating many hoarders, including this author. There have been attempts to recreate this magic fragrance but most have fallen flat. Trumper's has Wild Fern which was a contender in it's own right, but again not Penhaligon's Ferny goodness.
Along comes Bullgoose Shaving and Asylum Shave Work's entry, using the tried and true Formula T tallow shave soaps and fragrance genius of Lee and Wet Shave Products from Chandler, AZ. This author was skeptical and obviously a bit bias to think this scent could ever be re-created, or even get close to an homage to the Great English Fern.
This author was
WRONG! Although not an exact homage it is so very close, with the bonus of adding all the goodness for Trumper's Wild Fern. The best of both worlds. Not the best Fougere ever made but a Solid #2 and replacement for the Hallowed EF. This is listed as a Soap review, but a small note on the Aftershave. STUPENDOUS! A bit softer and sweeter that EF and the Royall Fougere Soap and not quite as sharp an initial note, however after dry down it is a very , very close approximation to English Fern. Also it should be noted the Aftershave is stronger than a normal AS and could be feasibly worn as a cologne as well. When topped with English Fern, perfection is achieved.
There have been mentions of cost in comparison to the soaps / aftershaves of the regular line of the manufacturer. In talking with Asylum, obtaining the correct fragrances, packaging, and time to create this makes it well worth the price of admission, and a different level of product all together. Again Well worth the Price.
Here is the full soap review:
Review of: Asylum Shave Works Royal Fougere
Initial Thoughts: (4.8/5.0)
WOW is about the only this that comes to mind, as well as a sigh of relief, to know that a correct and stupendous homage to the greatest fougere ever made is readlily available , and is so close to the original English Fern Fans should rejoice. The only complaint is the Size of the Tin. Should be bigger and actually deserves a nice ceramic or wooden bowl
Latherability (5.0/5.0 )
Those that are familiar with Wet Shave Products soaps (the Manufacturer), will recognize the "Formula T" goodness of this tallow based soap. Very easy to lather, stable, and slick. Wonderful Glide, and residual slickness, and post shave feel.
On the Face: (5.0/5.0 )
Again, this quality of this soap placed it in Tier 1 status on performance alone and with the Fragrance Elite. The fragrance blooms exponentially while latering, it does not dry out on the face, when properly hydrated, feels fantastic on the face and while shaving. For straight shavers a bit more water is required, and this soap allows you to customize from yogurty to thin and wet and all choiced in between.
Stability: (5.0/5.0)
As mentioned above this shave soap remains stable, period. No re-lathering was needed, whether it be for 2-4 passes with a DE or three full slow passes with a Straight. Typical of these soaps
Glide / Slickness: (4.9/5.0)
Hydration is the key, as it is, with any tallow soap. In this authors opinion it likes a wetter thinner lather to bring out the best in glide and slickness. With straight razor there were no times where you could feel the blade regardless of the ATG, XTG, WTG passes. A dolphin smooth BBS shave is very attainable with the help of this shave soap.
Fragrance: (5.0/5.0 )
This is where the "off the charts" begins. It is strong, and becomes stronger and lingers as you lather each pass, The soap is much more an exact match to the English Fern, than the Aftershave, but it is so close it is only discernible to the OCD (Like Me). With all other factors aside this is the type of fragrance that will make it hard not to smile after your shave, walking around exclaiming "OH MY WHAT A SHAVE". The fragrance alone vaults this combo into the Elite status.
Post Shave: (4.8 / 5.0 )
Not quite a nourishing as some, however very nice post shave feel, not greasy, nor oily, you face feels alive and smooth as silk, The fragrance also lingers as if inviting the Aftershave to give it a boost. Very nice!
Summary: (34.5/35.0 )
Asylum Shave Works has not only hit this one out of the park, but the ball is still flying higher and higher. If the goal was to Re-create the feeling, scent, and a timeless nod to probably the finest Fougere ever created then MISSION ACCOMPLISHED. Further, however Asylum puts it's own mark to make it their own. With strong hints of Trumper's Wild Fern dancing with with the fragrance notes from English Fern to create the Perfect homage. Elite Status without question.
And jokingly....... Asylum Shave Works better not discontinue this product or the groans of the populous will be deafening.
Great Product, Highly recommended, and if you are a fan of Penhaligon's English Fern, Just Get it! You will be glad you did